Glue question


jbovinette

jbovinette

Florida Railroads
Ok I have a serious problem with glue. Right now this is what I am using: Testors

The glue tends to run and takes forever to bond IMO. Especially when doing details. I just bought the Cannon tred and step kit and wonding what I should use for that. What does everyone use?

Thanks,
John
 
I use that except for gluing metal, which I use Goo or whatever superglue I have that hasn't dried closed.

Instead of applying glue to both pieces, try just putting a little on, and then putting the pieces together, and rub them back and forth a little. Also, if you can glue from the back side (like windows and walls on buildings), then you prevent it from going through and being visible in the front.
 
I use it regularly as well with no difficulties, with the advice listed. I try to keep the tip as close to horizontal that still allows glue to flow without it being excessive, rather than pointing the strip straight down. For small detail parts, you could use a piece of plastic from any store bought product (I keep a stack of all packaging materials) and pour a glob of glue on it, then use a toothpick to pick up a dab of glue for your parts. Another thing that I got in the habit of doing was shaking the glue before use. I don't know if it makes a difference, but it helps my psyche.

Edit: Is that the glue bottle with the metal tip or the plastic tip? I started with the plastic tipped one and quickly switched to the metal tipped one due to flow control issues.
 
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Glue

I use the one with the metal tip. I might have to try the horizontal method. Never thought of that. What is the difference between the blue and the other?

John
 
I use this stuff all the time with no problems. I have one bottle that I opened up a bit to flow more for larger gluing projects and then another just normal. If I do smaller pieces I use a pin or sewing needle and apply the glue to the pin then to the piece.

Let it set a bit before joing the pieces. This lets it become tacky and it tends to stick better....
 
For gluing on metal parts I suggest either Superglue or CyanoAcrylate/CA. As for styrene to styrene I just use good ol' testor's liquid cement tube. I tried the stuff in the bottle ages ago but didn't really care for it.
 
I stopped using any of the testors glue many years ago, once I learned about Plastic Weld. Super Glue for anything non plastic.
 
I bought a quart of MEK (Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) from the paint department at a big box store and use that. It cost about $10.00 and is probably more than I will ever use. Slater's Plastikard even calls their styrene cement MEK-Pak. :)
 
MEK works great, but is highly toxic.
Transfer a small amount to an old liquid glue bottle to limit your exposure to the fumes while working with the glue. Make your transfer outside where a spill will not hurt anything.
MAKE SURE bottle and can lids are on tight. Store the large container in a vented (and secure from kids) location. Keep the lid on the bottle when not in actual use.
If MEK spills or leaks, it will destroy most plastics. :mad: Apply it with an OLD, small paint brush with a wood handle. It will "wick" into building junctions, but will "craze and frost" clear plastic windows. It melts the plastic to form a welded bond.

For glueing down figures and vehicles, I use Allene's craft glue. It dries clear and is flexible. If I bump a figure slightly, it does not break loose. It dries very slowly, like white glue, but can be spread with your finger for scenery. It is water clean up and can be thinned with water if desired.:cool:

This is probably more information than you wanted, but other people may be be interested. If not, my apologies!
 
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I find that the Testors blue bottle stuff runs like crazy, just really thin. I too have some of the Canon see through steps I need to add to a custom built Proto 2000 GP18 that took a tumble off the layout. I plan to use Gorilla Crazy glue applied with a pin to mine. I use the stuff pretty regularly for metal to plastic bonds, otherwise, I am partial to Testors liquid cement applied with an old Testors cheap white brush. It melts the bonds in the plastic together, just like MEK.
 
The base chemical in most plastic cements is MEK or at least a member in that chemical family. As Mikey stated they are highly toxic. I pour my MEK into a smaller bottle and don't leave the lid off when using. I also use it in a well ventilated area, but I haven't found anything that's better or faster, and I've tried them all.
 
Dear JB...

I experimented with several glues when beginning the hobby. I love the CCA glues, and found a hardware store version, a clear Gorilla Glue, the best product. You don't get those strings. It sets quick, which gives very little time for adjustment. It is very strong. I put a drop on wax paper and use a toothpick to apply.

If I feel I may need to adjust the items to be glued, there is always elmers. If you goof up with it, you have lots of time to disassemble.

Sincerely, LOgandsawman
 
Tamiya makes a nice liquid cement for plastic that is brush applied, and is in a nice square bottle that is just about impossible to knock over. For metal to plastic: ACC. Liquid for instant bonding, gel if you need a little time to position the part.
 
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