Gateway Subdivision

[2Tracks]

do you have a close up photo of how the foam and incline connect.

Actually, I think the second photo in yesterdays post of mine shows it well. After the risers were installed, I measured & cut the foam board, laid it on the benchwork, pushed up against the incline risers, secured with "foam safe" adhesive. I was then going to landscape from the incline roadbed down to the foam, never got that far!
Nothing between the foam & bench work for me. Although there maybe guys out there that do that for sound deadening........

 

[regme]

Sorry, I meant this connection, also when it comes to the point motors how did you install them to the foam?

For your incline did you use 12mm ply

 

[2Tracks]

Sorry, I meant this connection

Please see the very first picture in my first post in this thread. The incline track has feeders on it (laying up side down,) and I've spanned that gap with a piece of (temporary) plywood, intending to install a bridge there. And that is as far as I got with the incline track. The layout was torn down a couple months later.

incline did you use 12mm ply

I don't recall off hand how thick it was, I looked at some other pics I have and it looks like at least 5/8" (16mm) or even thicker, 3/4". (19mm) I believe I used this because this is what I already had on hand. Depending on your span between risers, 12mm should work ok.

point motors how did you install them to the foam?

That, is a very good question! Because of the materials I was using, I ended up cutting a recess in the bottom of the foam & installing a plywood template to mount the switch machines to. This first picture shows that fairly well. The heads of the machine screws on either side of the switch machine, have their heads incapsulated in the foam, and that is probably not best practice, but that's the way it turned out. You might see this every now & then across different model railroad forums & such-----Your Railroad, Your Rules! I'm using Fast Tracks Bullfrog switch machines.

Another switch, this is under the yard.

Top side, switches under construction. Throw rods from switch machines sticking up. The plaster spots on either side of the top switch is were the machine screw heads are. After I pulled the screw head down into the foam, (with washers,) just clearing the top surface, I loosened it up and put a little dab of adhesive under the washer & retightened. The adhesive dries hard, so I figured that would help keep the screw from going anywhere in the foam.

Finished switches.....

A Blue Point switch machine. I got this one as an experiment, to see how it compared to the Bullfrog's.
It has a very nice short concise throw compared to the Bullfrogs, but pricewise for the number I need, not so good! The terminals for wiring are clustered pretty close together, kind of a pain, (for me anyway) for soldering.

Switch machine mounting is one of the reasons this new layout will have a plywood base with 1" foam, thus eliminating the need for the screw through the foam. Live & learn! I'm sticking with the Bullfrogs, they work for me...

 

[2Tracks]

With the helix segments painted, I can install risers, pre-drilling everything. Two reasons there, the plywood, easer to drive screw thru, pine riser, help keep it from splitting out. I'll be using #6 x 1 1/2" flat head wood screws, a 3/32 drill bit & glue. I used a carpenter's pencil to outline the riser. With the awl, I eyeballed a center mark in the outline and the end of the riser, (not shown,)

The white arrows show how the risers will be mounted to the plywood with the grain running parallel to the loop segment. I won't be putting any screws in the end grain this way, but it makes the riser pretty prone to any side force. Hey, what can go wrong? Right? I'm using reclaimed pine 1x4's from the first layout for riser material. I drilled thru the plywood and only partially into the end riser as technically I suppose, the drill bit is oversized for the pilot hole in the pine, but I'm making it work.....
The deck spacing for the helix is 4 inches, so with all the wonderful lumber dimensions nowadays, I had to trim down the 1x4 to get the 4 inch dimension.

I installed the screw so just the tip was sticking thru the plywood, some glue on the riser, hole centered on screw & tighten down.

Rinse & repeat...... Risers on first loop.

 

[2Tracks]

With the first loop of risers done, it's get the base loop fastened down.
Admittedly, contemplating the build of this thing seemed pretty daunting, (two of these are going to be stacked,) deck height, loop radius, incline percentage, yikes! Once I realized that the distance between decks is were I needed to start, here we go.....
Black line is track coming off helix on to staging, left to right.
Knowing that I need 4 inches deck spacing were the loop comes back on itself, measured from the top of the bottom deck to the top of the next loop. Logic would seem that at 180 degrees, deck height is 2" and at 90 degrees each way the deck height would be 1" & 3".
And that is the last picture above.

Most of the helix track is prepped, ready for install.
Considering power districts, I like to try & be consistent with using the points end of a turnout as the district boundry. For instance, on the above photo, the first switch for the staging yard is just to the right. The joint at the points end of the switch will be the end of the electric circuit for this piece of helix track.
I'm making both helices one power district.

With that first switch about a foot away from where the track comes off the helix, I'm going to start the helix track, on the helix off the edge of the bench work. That will let me leave the helix structure & staging bench work independent of each other for the time being, you never know...

but it makes the riser pretty prone to any side force. Hey, what can go wrong?

Here is what can go wrong! The underside opening for the helix is big enough, but at this stage of construction, I figured I'll just step over. That was all well & good for about 3 times, and then.... big fat knee....

Awesome! That's what I needed! I know, I'll make a set of steps to cross over.

Thought I was doing good until I realized that one more loop & the steps would be about worthless.
Finally, it dawned on me, move the staging plywood, and slide the helix out to work on it! Duhhh!

That's better!

 

[2Tracks]

With the bottom loop down and set, it's lay some track. I like to use a template for laying any mainline track, especially curves, and ESPECIALLY the helix. These are the Fast Track Sweep sticks. Each set comes as two pieces, which I glued together and that gave me two seperate sticks that will span one piece of flex track.

I already had one set from the previous layout, so ordered another set to build the helix with. The biggest draw back with the wood templates are, that they wear pretty fast taking them in and out of the track. I do realize there are metal ones out there.......But I'll make it work.
I'm going for consistency here, I'm not depending on the pencil line for the center of the track. (if I wasn't using the templates.) The truer the curve radius is, (and tangent track,) the less the train is, for lack of a better word, slamming back & forth between the rails. That takes energy!
I'm just trying to give my motors all the help I can negotiating the helix.
So the first three sections of track on the helix are code 100. I had that left from LO one, decided to put them here. Well, I dropped the ball there and didn't follow thru with getting enough 100 to do the complete helix, and that is mainly for the clearance for hold down screws. But I made it work, I found a #4 X 3/8" pan head sheet metal screw and a .020" thick rivet washer that just clears code 83 rail for a hold down.
I did get some Atlas 100 for staging yard tracks, and looked at it for the helix but, I don't care for the "flex" in this track. All the ties are cut on one side, so as a result, no matter how you bend the track, it want's to spring back into a straight position. I don't care for that on the helix, especially if a hold down screw should loosen up. The Shinohara track will basically stay in position.
The other reason for the templates is the joints, I'm going to solder the joints in track, I want to help assure a good joint without kinks. I've done the, solder the two straight pieces together, then install on the curve thing. I'm good with that with curves out in the open, and ones that are usually bigger than a 26" radius.
I ordered more rail joiners for the layout, and when the new ones arrived, they were noticeably different. Almost 6mm longer in the holding power. I also like how there are no tabs sticking past the end. I'm going to use the new ones for the helix, the longer length should help against kinks. (Although now that means sacrificing ties at the joint to help hold gauge.) I'm going to bet on my technique and the longer joiner in holding gauge, than the plastic spikes with the shorter joiner.

 

[2Tracks]

With the ties pushed back, the rail is cut & filed for joiners.

Joiners installed, modified cut-out in template is placed over the joint. I've pushed the track towards the inside so there is tension on it, the tack is holding it there.

I only soldered the out side of the joint, didn't see the need for soldering the inside.

A couple of lite strokes with a half moon file over the inside of the joint, to give it a uniform profile.

A quick clean with the pads over the joint.

Done.

After fastening down this section, I gave the joint a little added insurance. No way it can "kink to the field side" now.

 

[2Tracks]

With the three pieces of code 100 down, I'll finish with the code 83. So now I have a transition, I bought the Atlas 100/83 joiners, and the little transition panel sold by Walthers. The 100/83 joiners did a good job (alignment wise,) but I decided to go with the Walther's panel, it required some modifications, but that was fine. I like to model the prototype when ever I can, and that includes track, the prototypes outlawed compromised type joints on the mainline, I don't have an issue with that, so I'll install the Walthers piece.

There was only a little dab of solder on the inside of the rail joint, arrow.......

So I soldered the outside of the joints and added to the inside solder, (they are going to be bent)
I had to cut the ties so they would flex as they are molded to be non flexing. I soldered the first three pieces of flex track, so this piece I'll install as an expansion gap. I used .020 styrene to gap all four ends. (I've re-done the hold down screws)

And a test for clearance's with a 50' box car & 53' 6" flat car.

 

[2Tracks]

With the tranny track installed, and the elevation fixed, it's layer on the rest of the loops for the lower helix.
One more loop to complete this helix.....

This picture is the next two and a half sections added from the above pic. I had to cut one of the loop sections in half so a joint didn't end up on top of another one. The black arrow is were the track will leave the helix, on to the main level.
The white arrow is were the tracks for the top helix start on top of these blocks. This helix will operate in an opposite direction, hence the height of the first sets of risers.

 

[2Tracks]

Like the staging helix, I'll do the same thing for the logging helix & cut the first loop as much as I can out of one piece of plywood.

Here is the first loop with the elevation set, at arrow, this is were the mainline track coming from the left, enters the logging helix.

To close the loop, I had to measure & cut the segment so the free end did not land on the joint were the helix started.

With the four elevations established, 6 o'clock, (ends of segments,) 12 o'clock, (two clamps,) and 9 & 3 o'clock positions, it's a matter of stacking track & segments to the top.
Almost there....one more loop.....

Here is this monster done..... can you spot the four ends of track?

 

[2Tracks]

Before I slide the helix into position, I am looking for a little bit of insurance to install, in the form of a guard rail. I am confident in my track laying, but, that is a long way to the floor if something goes side ways.
I've been using the search function on different forums, youtube & google, seeing what was out there. Screen seemed appealing for the outside of the helix, especially on the sides with the wall, since I couldn't rerail anything from there anyway. OK, what kind of screen? Man, there is a lot of choices out there! I didn't want screen on the inside from the point of install, uninstall if there is a problem.
What I came up with, or rather a great suggestion by Bill Beranek, the track planner, (he designed my layout,) is, drywall shims.
Home depot had this bundle for $12 & some change. They are cardboard, 45 inches long, 1 1/2" wide & .050" thick (a little less than 1/16".)
A stop at Fastenal for a supply of #4 X 3/8 sheet metal screws, and I'm ready for installation.

Getting started...
Since this is the outside of the helix, I left the strips full width and eyeballed the height above roadbed at around 3/8", give or take.....

With the outside done, I'll slide the helix into position & secure in place.

When I put strips on the inside, I was going to cut them down to an inch wide and install them with the lower edge flush with the bottom of the plywood sub road bed. The pic below, I've installed the 1" strips were the track enters/leaves the helix for maximum clearance.

Before I do the inside, I need to get the feeder wires secured. I'm using an insulated staple to do this. As with the helix "guard rail," I did various internet searches to see what was out there. The two feeder wire are so small that I really didn't find anything clamp wise that would work. There are the zip ties that are made to be secured with a screw. I didn't much care for them, so I settled on the staples. When I secure the feeder wires, I'm going to build in some stress relief.
Pre drill the holes for the staple, or you could split the plywood, (ask me how I know.)

I installed the staple to were the wires are just loose.

I used this stick to apply pressure on the feeder wires & hold them in place.......

I then took the awl and made a loop in the wires, then seated the staple.

Feeder wires secured.

Feeder wires secured, a complete vacuum of the helix, the strips for the inside are cut, their install is next.

 

[2Tracks]

With the strips cut to an inch tall, it's time for their install. Pretty fast, took me about an hour & a half to install them all, a lot more screws to do than the outside perimeter.

Blue marks are unsoldered joints.

 

[Old Βandit]

Incredible ! Awesome work.

 

[2Tracks]

Thanks Old Bandit, was an interesting build, glad it's done though!

 

[2Tracks]

South of Klamath on the Gateway, from MP 24 to MP 25 is a near 90 degree curve, swinging south for almost a full mile, to head for Bieber & the WP. The outside of the curve has some industries on it, plus the Malin station, pronounced (Mah-linn.) Not sure of the exact date of the picture, I'm guessing in the thirties, shortly after the railroads arrival (?) is the Malin depot. The tracks on the right are still there, they had served at least three big potato distributers warehouses, and what ever else that might have been there, but now is long gone.
Check out the height of the dock at the end. Looks like the majority of the crowd is standing on a new load of cinders. Everything is red cinders,
mainline, sidings, fills, you name it, it was red cinders back then.
Look at the lack of ballast on the siding track.
Later, at some point in time, a passing siding was built on the inside of the curve, over a mile long, long since removed.

In my comparison photo you can just see the old foundation (arrow.)

Here is a closer look at it. That's 90# rail in front of it.

The radio bungalow & set up in the above picture is built I believe, on the foundation for a later depot building, for they are separate.
Here is the later depot. The elevator & warehouse (arrows,) are still there. The warehouse is built from the red brick blocks. Signals look to be in the highball position.

In my comparison photo, you can see a lot of the elevator, the door in the warehouse has been bricked up. The old foundation is just to the left out of picture.

 

[Rico]

Cool pics Jerry, neat to see the evolution of the station and area!

 

[2Tracks]

With the completion of the helix and having it set in place, the main level & upper-level bench work can begin. As I had mentioned before, the staging bench work & main level bench work are the same, (up to a point,) so it's just a matter of tracing and cutting.
Getting started..... (unpainted plywood)

Once the plywood pieces are cut I added stiffeners to the back and front edge of each piece. I had saved the good wood from the first layout, (1x4's) and ripped it down to make the stiffeners. Once you get a routine down, you can make things move along.....

 

[JeffH]

Very impressive build! When I was dreaming up my first layout, I contemplated a "helix" that would climb the outside of a cone shaped mountain, then cross a bridge that spans a river valley to the top of another mountain.

Then I realized I was going to bite off more than I could chew. Kudos to your lofty goals. It looks like you have the skill and patience to accomplish those goals!

 

[logandsawman]

Great work and history lesson!

Are you modeling the Malin station, or some of those scenes on your layout?

Dave LASM

 

[TLOC]

Nice build. I am seriously thinking of starting a new layout. Very timely for me and I see some ideas here I hadn’t used before. Thanks

TomO