Fold up or Lift out section alignment issues

[Victor Ferguson]

Does anyone have advice on how to properly build fold up or Lift out sections so that the will not have rail alignment problems?
Victor

 

[Beachbum]

A lot of folks will say, "Don't use lift-outs, etc". If you must, the most logical suggestion I've heard is to use a steel wall stud. Turn it so it looks like a U-shape and glue your track to the bottom of the U. The "walls" of the channel will keep any derailments from hitting the floor and the steel should be more dimensionally stable than wood. Lay the track in place across the bridge first and then cut the track. You'll need some sort of alignment pins on each end unless you hinge one end.

Proviso: I've not done this myself so I don't know how well this would work.

 

[tmak26]

I am in the process of build some free-mo modules using alignment pins.

I made some pins with K & S tube and rod stock from the local hardware store. . . 9/32 round brass tube, 1/4 brass rod. The rod slides inside the tube. Seems to work go for my application. I am not sure how it would work for you.

Tom Makofski


http://tmak26.zenfolio.com/

NorthEast Wisconsin Free-mo
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/newifreemo/

http://newisconsinfree-mo.fast-tracks.net/index.php

 

[UP2CSX]

I've seen it done with barrel locks, the kind with a handle that slides into a hollow channel at the other end. Seems like they allow precise alignment between the halves they are strong when the steel rod is locked in place. They're also cheap so they may be worth a try. A friend who does modules says he only worries about keeping the the actual rails in alignment so there's no derailment problems. He handles the electrical part with wires soldered to the track and then terminating in a mini-plug. He locks the modules together and then just uses the plugs to keep the bridge track powered from the other module. Beachbum's steel channel idea sounds interesting too.

 

[Larry]

On my other layout I had a bridge made out of steel that I lifted out. It was 3ft. long & had 2 tracks running thru it. I had a pc. of angle bolted to the sides of the tables & a spring loaded pin under the bridge at each end to hold it in place. I never had any alignment problems in the 5 yrs. it was in use. I used a quick disconnect on the wires that were soldered to the tracks. It worked out real great.

 

[CBCNSfan]

Well then there are several kinds of gates. This one I'm going to have to flip a coin, I can't decide if I'll trash it or not for the rebuild layout. Lot of work but there never has been a derailment on it.

Cheers
Willis

 

[ICG/SOU]

I'm in the process of putting my layout together, and so I have built two different varieties.

1) Lift out. The lift out is pretty simple. Since you're joining two parts of benchwork together, both levels should be as close to level and at the same height as possible. I put a cross member below each side, for the lift out to sit on. Once it is on, I used shelf brackets (the little pin ones that come with those Sauder wood-like shelves you get at Walmart). Attach those brackets, mark where they contact the cross members, and drill out a hole for each. Another option is to use a large nail or something similar. I had alignment and with four points of contact, pretty stable.

2) Lift gate--get things as level as possible. Attach the hinges at a point as close to track level as possible (not at track level, but close to it). Get barrel bolts (one on each side), and make level and drill holes for the barrel bolts. Try to find the ones with metal plates (like the striker plates for a door lock).

When it comes to track laying, lay track with lift gate or lift out in place, and attach it to your bench work too. Cut the track, and file the inside edges a little. I think a lift gate is better because if the fixed/hinged side is near your track bus, you can run feeders off of it to power the lift gate section of track, so you don't have to use plugs or other means of providing power to the track.