First Time Painting

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diburning

diburning

AlcoHaulic
This is my first time spray painting a locomotive. I've painted things with paintbrushes in the past, but the paint would go on too thick and mask some of the details like etched steps.

I am using rattle cans (I know this is blasphemy to those who use airbrushes, but I don't want to invest in an airbrush because I don't intend on painting very much).

Any tips on painting with the rattle cans? I will only be using two colors, Reefer white and Engine Black (I'm painting up some NS horseheads)

I've started with the cab, sprayed it white. I forgot to clear the nozzle on the new can of paint before I started spraying so I got chunks and blobs on it. So, I stripped the paint off the cab, then made sure the paint came out smooth out of the can and painted the cab white.

Next, I will mask off the unibrow and then glosscote it to seal the tape on so that it doesn't bleed underneath. After that, I will spray the entire cab black. I will then proceed to spray the rest of the shell black.
 
Sounds like you are on the right path from here.

Just remember well ventilated area (yeah, yeah, I know you've heard it before) and to spray in full strokes across. Start spraying before the nozzle aligns with the edge of the piece and dont stop til you have passed the opposite end.
I also would recomend thouroughly washeing the body shell with soap and water a day in advance. Then after that point do not touch it with your bare hands. Get a box of el cheapo latex gloves at the drug store and use em. I cant tell you how many paint jobs I have seen ruined by an oily fingerprint UNDER the paint!!:eek:

Good luck, dont forget to post pics when you are done!!:D
 
If there's a little defect in the paint (a spot you missed, or where a bug landed, or whatever) don't mess with it. Let it dry. THEN fix it. (I've ruined quite a few models by messing with wet/curing paint.)
 


One thing I've learned, maybe from this forum, is to warm up the can in hot water before spraying to avoid splatter and such.
Another thing is to shake the can until you think it's ready then shake it some more.
 
i went outside and sprayed a single coat of white on the cab so far, then it started raining. I put it on the cab on a vent grate to let the A/C blow on it and dry it out. I will spray another coat tomorrow if I have time and weather permitting.

So far, Reefer White isn't as white as I thought it would be, although it is just the first coat and the gray primer is still showing up under it.
 
diburning said:
This is my first time spray painting a locomotive. I've painted things with paintbrushes in the past, but the paint would go on too thick and mask some of the details like etched steps.

I am using rattle cans (I know this is blasphemy to those who use airbrushes, but I don't want to invest in an airbrush because I don't intend on painting very much).

Any tips on painting with the rattle cans? I will only be using two colors, Reefer white and Engine Black (I'm painting up some NS horseheads)

I've started with the cab, sprayed it white. I forgot to clear the nozzle on the new can of paint before I started spraying so I got chunks and blobs on it. So, I stripped the paint off the cab, then made sure the paint came out smooth out of the can and painted the cab white.

Next, I will mask off the unibrow and then glosscote it to seal the tape on so that it doesn't bleed underneath. After that, I will spray the entire cab black. I will then proceed to spray the rest of the shell black.
Click to expand...

Every one on this thread has mentioned very good tips. I would recommend applying thin coats. In this shot, I applied two thin coats of back paint on this model from a spray can.
 
diburning said:
So far, Reefer White isn't as white as I thought it would be, although it is just the first coat and the gray primer is still showing up under it.
Click to expand...

That means you are doing it right! :D Multiple thin coats are much better than thick gloppy coats!!
 
I painted three Dash 9,s for Norfolk Southern last year, using spray cans.However mine were non-Horseheads so I did,nt need to worry about spraying any white.
I sprayed all three with black, once that was nice and dry, I put a thin coat of clear satin varnish on, so the decals would sit properly.Then after the decals were on, I sprayed over everything with another coat of satin varnish on, to seal them,and stop any lifting.
Ron

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=143097#post143097
 
Last edited by a moderator:
diburning said:
Next, I will mask off the unibrow and then glosscote it to seal the tape on so that it doesn't bleed underneath. After that, I will spray the entire cab black. I will then proceed to spray the rest of the shell black.
Click to expand...

I would use the white to seal the tape. Sometimes clear coats can attack the underlying paint.

I clear coat homemade decals with Krylon Crystal Coat Clear Flat once the printer ink is dry. Once I had the decals installed and dry for a week I sprayed the first light coat of Painter's Touch Crystal Coat Clear Gloss over to seal the surface. And I mean a LIGHT coat expecting to be spraying a couple more. BAD IDEA!!! :( Within seconds the clear gloss reacted with the clear flat and it was time to strip to bare metal and repaint. Oddly some of the clear gloss hit some scrap styrene and did not eat it.
 


IowaFarmBoy said:
I clear coat homemade decals with Krylon Crystal Coat Clear Flat once the printer ink is dry. Once I had the decals installed and dry for a week I sprayed the first light coat of Painter's Touch Crystal Coat Clear Gloss over to seal the surface. And I mean a LIGHT coat expecting to be spraying a couple more. BAD IDEA!!! :( Within seconds the clear gloss reacted with the clear flat and it was time to strip to bare metal and repaint. Oddly some of the clear gloss hit some scrap styrene and did not eat it.
Click to expand...

The problem may have been the incompatability of the paints. Enamels, laquers and latex don't always play well together. Alkyd enamals and catalized emamels dont either. If I start a project with Floquil, I finish with Floquil. Testors has several "families" of paint. I never mix familys. Now that may mean I have duplicate colors of different brands, but the paint lifting and crazing issues are avoided and that justifies the expense for me. The cans may say clear gloss enamel, but the formulation of the contents may be worlds apart.:eek::rolleyes::D
 
Rico said:
One thing I've learned, maybe from this forum, is to warm up the can in hot water before spraying to avoid splatter and such.
Another thing is to shake the can until you think it's ready then shake it some more.
Click to expand...

Amen to that...:)
Warming both thins the viscosity of the paint and bumps up the can pressure for smooth spraying.

I do my rattlecans right over a low gas burner. Apply for a few seconds, feel how warm the bottom gets to gauge how long to hold it over the flame, shake the can to combine the warmed paint with the colder, repeat until the whole can feels "baby bottle" warm.

Ooh... warm paint sprays soo nice. :)
 
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