First locomotive weathering attempt


rcgrabbag

Member
I figured I'd give weathering a try and used a Bachmann K-4 Pacific as my testbed. Weathering was done using chalks, washes and airbrushing. I still have to blacken brass pieces like the bell and whistles, and I'm working on perfecting a technique for grease/oil staining on the side rods. Any suggestions?

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Drybrushing will help on the rods, and here's something that many people forget about weathering a steam locomotive, esp. a coal burner. Coal leaves ash, and due to the draft and the windstream created by running down the tracks, the finer ash will fly out from the pan and create a greyish 'streak' from the pan and along the side of the tender and the last one or two drivers or the trailing truck. This would be a subtle grey.
 
I think it looks good. Carey, not being too keen on the parts of a steamer, can you elaborate where the area is you are talking about?
 
RCgrabbag, that looks great, especially for a first attempt. A quick trick I use to make something look greasy is to use a little dab a gloss black paint. Here's a pic of what I mean. Ronschnozzer 5.jpg
 
The ashpan is directly below the firebox, the area behind and above the trailing truck in this situation. Depending on the locomotive the space between the ashpan and the firebox itself can be from 6-12". Has to allow for some draft into the firebox or the fire would never get hot enough.
 
Thanks for the tips, folks! Has anyone done any weathering of 'western' locomotives? I've heard it said in a full scale train video that I have that the residue that collected on the drivers and side of the loco was more white-ish in appearance due to heavier concentrations of alkali in the water. I was curious if anyone had attempted to mimic that effect.
 
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I've done it when the client I was painting a loco for wanted it. I simulated it with a spray of a whitish grey that I mixed my self. I thought it looked good!

I meant to say this in my first post, what you've done so far is very good. My only suggestion would be more of a "streak" of soot down the top of the locomotive. The cab roof , and esp around things like the bell, (which you said wasn't finished), wouldn't be that clean even after one trip. Coal puts out a lot of soot that would settle over everything, esp on top of the loco.
 
All good suggestions, but ....
You have done so well that I would be afraid of over doing it.
From my view point ... It looks FAB!
 
It has been said that a little acrylic "lamp black" from an artist tube can be applied to give that greasy build up look. I haven't had the chance to try it yet but it seems reasonable. Guess I'd start out using a needle to apply a little at a time.
My only question would be, "How long does it take to dry? :)
BigMo
 
Chalk. White with a little bit of yellow gives an alkali effect that I think looks pretty good. I have used it on tankers that haul corrosives.
 
PRR used anthracite coal which left their enginges a little brown, not that deep gray like N&W, which used semibituminus coal. For your grease splatters use some gloss colors like dark gray metallic, brown etc.
I have developed a procedure to paint ALL my brass steam.
Start with loco as right out of the paint shop and still glossy. I then do all the rust/calcium wet stuff. I start with just clear thinner painted down the path of dripping water. Next dab in the rust, oranges, browns etc. Let dry. For the traction sand dust and coal soot, I use a 6 foot long piece of 2X4 with track layed on the thin edge. Against the wall in my paint area I have a cheap door mirror so I can see both sides of the loco. I put 3 in 1 oil on the rails and then put the engine on the track. Using DCC or DC throttle I start the loco moving slowly forward, and lightly spray the wheels and lower part of the tender. I use Testors Armor Sand thinned with a lot of lacquer thinner so it will dry very fast and it produces very small droplets. When side 1 is done I rotate the loco and repeat. The mirror allows you to get both sides almost exactly the same. I spray in the direction the wind woulds travel over the loco as it went down the track. Next the coal soot. I use Testors flat black with a little armor sand added, and thinned with lacquer thinner. Spray from about 14 inches from teh top front of the engine, over teh smoke stack. point the brush toward the cab and at about a 45 degree angle as you advance over the top of the engine. You want the soot to look like it fell back onto the moving engine, so the area right in back of the cab should have little soot, but right over the smokebox and the tender deck should have a fair amount of soot. If your steam loco is a freight loco or a switcher, it will have much more soot on the boiler from sitting or working at slow speeds.
 



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