First decoder install ever... Intimidating.
- Thread starter Frenchie
- Start date
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As I said previously I know SSS speakers and their quality, I actually purchased decoders and current keepers from SSS.
My first install was an Atlas U36C and
I found out that, according to SSS, their speaker could not be used on this loco with the Blunami PNP 8 I was installing. The decoder is a bit too long.
The 2nd install was a Kato GP35 and the SSS speaker doesn’t leave much room at the rear light for the diode equiped leds I use. Very tricky to say the least.
Concerning the two Kato GE C44-9W I just finished, there is, so far, no SSS speaker.
So I went for ultra flat phone ones.
They sound great, take very little room, are cheap and fit any model loco.
BUT I'll purchase SSS speakers for my Stewart F7 A and B units, and also for my Fox Valley GP60B.
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
I might check here in europe, just in case... never know.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
Coming back to you zzr.
As I said previously I know SSS speakers and their quality, I actually purchased decoders and current keepers from SSS.
My first install was an Atlas U36C and
I found out that, according to SSS, their speaker could not be used on this loco with the Blunami PNP 8 I was installing. The decoder is a bit too long.
The 2nd install was a Kato GP35 and the SSS speaker doesn’t leave much room at the rear light for the diode equiped leds I use. Very tricky to say the least.
Concerning the two Kato GE C44-9W I just finished, there is, so far, no SSS speaker.
So I went for ultra flat phone ones.
They sound great, take very little room, are cheap and fit any model loco.
BUT I'll purchase SSS speakers for my Stewart F7 A and B units, and also for my Fox Valley GP60B.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
For the light bleed between the headlight and ditchlights, this worked for me.
Black tape - the front one goes from where it comes out to where it meets the cab.
Then I put blue tac on the sides of the ditch light runners since the headlight floods that area. The ditch light runner has one layer of black tape and a little bit hanging out the end. Then I covered it all up with more black tape.
Results.
Black tape - the front one goes from where it comes out to where it meets the cab.
Then I put blue tac on the sides of the ditch light runners since the headlight floods that area. The ditch light runner has one layer of black tape and a little bit hanging out the end. Then I covered it all up with more black tape.
Results.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
That little window is part of the headlight runner so it will send light out. I noticed it when I took the cab apart.
Thank's Kusojiji, very useful trick.
Hello !
I come back to the front and rear handrails problem I faced trying to insert them in place on my two old Katos C44-9Ws.
Thank's again Kusojiji for your advice and explanations on how "rounding up" the square posts ends with a pair of pliers.
As you said, it is a very delicate job, and it didn't work for me. I certainly previously played too much with them trying to find a way,
using superglue, and so on, I just made things worse.
So I decided to superglue (again) small pieces of brass rods I cut with a mini disc. I first cut off the two bottom plastic pins on
the two center posts and glued the brass pieces on the inside faces of the said posts. I left the plastic pins on the two exterior posts,
just "pointed" them with a cutter.
I used a tiny drill to make sure the holes were clean and open to accept the brass rods, and it fitted perfectly. I added tiny drops of
glue to secure my work. Later on, I then inserted the two exterior posts easily. A touch of yellow paint rounded up the job. So far I did that
only for the nose handrails of both locos.
Now, the "look". Eventhough the bottom of the posts is obviously thicker, it doesn't look that bad from normal viewing distance, and I will
live with it.
I come back to the front and rear handrails problem I faced trying to insert them in place on my two old Katos C44-9Ws.
Thank's again Kusojiji for your advice and explanations on how "rounding up" the square posts ends with a pair of pliers.
As you said, it is a very delicate job, and it didn't work for me. I certainly previously played too much with them trying to find a way,
using superglue, and so on, I just made things worse.
So I decided to superglue (again) small pieces of brass rods I cut with a mini disc. I first cut off the two bottom plastic pins on
the two center posts and glued the brass pieces on the inside faces of the said posts. I left the plastic pins on the two exterior posts,
just "pointed" them with a cutter.
I used a tiny drill to make sure the holes were clean and open to accept the brass rods, and it fitted perfectly. I added tiny drops of
glue to secure my work. Later on, I then inserted the two exterior posts easily. A touch of yellow paint rounded up the job. So far I did that
only for the nose handrails of both locos.
Now, the "look". Eventhough the bottom of the posts is obviously thicker, it doesn't look that bad from normal viewing distance, and I will
live with it.
Attachments
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
Thank's for the link Kusojiji, but the shipping costs plus the taxes and exchange fees are outrageous for such a small order.
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
I might check here in europe, just in case... never know.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)