First decoder install ever... Intimidating.
- Thread starter Frenchie
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Nah, don't worry about it! Alls good. Glad the system remains on and going. My Kato DC power supply that uses BT loses control when the phone goes to sleep and has to be reset, so I don't use it any more.
Without the screen info it would have been impossible for me to see the difference. I forgot about.
I didn't make the usual Amp test, noticing the problem I didn't insist before damaging the decoder.
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Hello Kusojiji !
I am have to apologize, I realize I never answered to your question concerning the Bluetooth connection when the phone turns to screensaver mode. ( gasp...that was August).
Nothing weird happens, no change in the speed, lights and beacon stay on.
I even made photos or videos while the train was running, then went back to control.
Sorry again !
I am have to apologize, I realize I never answered to your question concerning the Bluetooth connection when the phone turns to screensaver mode. ( gasp...that was August).
Nothing weird happens, no change in the speed, lights and beacon stay on.
I even made photos or videos while the train was running, then went back to control.
Sorry again !
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Hi Frenchie,
Nah, don't worry about it! Alls good. Glad the system remains on and going. My Kato DC power supply that uses BT loses control when the phone goes to sleep and has to be reset, so I don't use it any more.
Thinking about that, I remember a couple times coming back to control and noticing on the screen that speed had changed from 6 to 7 (app speed step).
Without the screen info it would have been impossible for me to see the difference. I forgot about.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Nothing catastrophic, awesome! Glad to hear that it is working great for you!
Hello !
Recently, diving into a box containing many Athearn blue box, mostly dummies, I purchased 35 years ago, I found underneath two old Atlas
Trainline ATSF warbonnets GE Dash 8-40 BWs.
Sleeping there so long, still well packed in their original boxes. These models had absolutely NO details, even the horn was too tiny and the
wrong type, 5 chimes instead of 3.
A short test on DC showed that the motors were quite tired, to say the least. I decided anyway to open one of them and install a Blunami
decoder, just to "see".
I finally opened both and removed the DC boards and part of the weights to make room. I equiped one with the decoder only and gave it a
try.
No miracle, it moved one inch forward and stopped, result, the decoder disconnected the loco. Backward, it refused to move. I gave up,
I am no mechanic, installing new gears and new motors in these old locos isn't worth the money and the pain. I know some of you guys
would love it, not me.
BUT why not making dummies I could insert between newer powered locos to make big lash-ups.
I unsoldered the decoder and removed as much of the weights as possible. Even so, those beasts are quite heavy.
First thing was to install Kadee couplers, then opening my old boxes full of details I bought decades ago, at a time where model locos,
even new, were lacking so many details.
I changed the horns and drilled holes for grab irons at both ends plus on the nose top and cab roof. I also added an antenna, nose sand
fillers, MU hoses and non working ditch lights with MV lenses. I also added fuel fillers on the fuel tanks, 2 on each side.
Last touch was adding cab sunshades, windshield wipers and number boards made with decals.
All this followed by a good weathering step. In a close future I plan to add bells and front and rear uncoupling levers. So far so good. There
are many more details that could be added, I'll see.
Since they are not lighted, those locos will be placed in the center of the lash-ups.
Recently, diving into a box containing many Athearn blue box, mostly dummies, I purchased 35 years ago, I found underneath two old Atlas
Trainline ATSF warbonnets GE Dash 8-40 BWs.
Sleeping there so long, still well packed in their original boxes. These models had absolutely NO details, even the horn was too tiny and the
wrong type, 5 chimes instead of 3.
A short test on DC showed that the motors were quite tired, to say the least. I decided anyway to open one of them and install a Blunami
decoder, just to "see".
I finally opened both and removed the DC boards and part of the weights to make room. I equiped one with the decoder only and gave it a
try.
No miracle, it moved one inch forward and stopped, result, the decoder disconnected the loco. Backward, it refused to move. I gave up,
I am no mechanic, installing new gears and new motors in these old locos isn't worth the money and the pain. I know some of you guys
would love it, not me.
BUT why not making dummies I could insert between newer powered locos to make big lash-ups.
I unsoldered the decoder and removed as much of the weights as possible. Even so, those beasts are quite heavy.
First thing was to install Kadee couplers, then opening my old boxes full of details I bought decades ago, at a time where model locos,
even new, were lacking so many details.
I changed the horns and drilled holes for grab irons at both ends plus on the nose top and cab roof. I also added an antenna, nose sand
fillers, MU hoses and non working ditch lights with MV lenses. I also added fuel fillers on the fuel tanks, 2 on each side.
Last touch was adding cab sunshades, windshield wipers and number boards made with decals.
All this followed by a good weathering step. In a close future I plan to add bells and front and rear uncoupling levers. So far so good. There
are many more details that could be added, I'll see.
Since they are not lighted, those locos will be placed in the center of the lash-ups.
Attachments
Yes Kusojiji that could very well be. It could also be mechanical.
I didn't make the usual Amp test, noticing the problem I didn't insist before damaging the decoder.
Hi everybody !
Back in the 90s I purchased 2 Kato GE C44-9W, ATSF warbonnet scheme. I think it was the first run of these at the time.
I decided to equip them with Blunami decoders, PNP8 in this case, current keepers and my usual ultra flat speakers.
The shell is very easy to open, there is also no weight to cut nor to remove. It is just a matter of disconnecting the wires from
the DC board and remove the two screws to free the said board.
In order to gain some room I shortened the light bars for the front and rear lights. Since I wanted to try the alternating flashing ditch lights, I had to cut short their common light bar to separate them and install two separate LEDs.
Attached photos show before and after cutting the light bars, headlight (same thing for the rear one), and ditch lights.
Back in the 90s I purchased 2 Kato GE C44-9W, ATSF warbonnet scheme. I think it was the first run of these at the time.
I decided to equip them with Blunami decoders, PNP8 in this case, current keepers and my usual ultra flat speakers.
The shell is very easy to open, there is also no weight to cut nor to remove. It is just a matter of disconnecting the wires from
the DC board and remove the two screws to free the said board.
In order to gain some room I shortened the light bars for the front and rear lights. Since I wanted to try the alternating flashing ditch lights, I had to cut short their common light bar to separate them and install two separate LEDs.
Attached photos show before and after cutting the light bars, headlight (same thing for the rear one), and ditch lights.
Attachments
I installed the LEDs using shrink tubing which holds them tight against the light bars. I fixed the decoder above the motor using
one of the screws with a Kadee washer added as a safety measure. Short cuts happen.
I soldered all wires, connecting one ditch light to FX3 and the other one to FX4.
There is just enough room for the current keeper on the rear "tower". The flat speaker rests on top of the decoder with a small
square of double sided tape.
one of the screws with a Kadee washer added as a safety measure. Short cuts happen.
I soldered all wires, connecting one ditch light to FX3 and the other one to FX4.
There is just enough room for the current keeper on the rear "tower". The flat speaker rests on top of the decoder with a small
square of double sided tape.
Attachments
Since these photos have been taken I moved the speaker about a 1/2 inch to the rear and tilted the current keeper 90°.
I gained so a couple millimeters above the current keeper. This solved the issue of the rear end of the shell not sitting
perfectly, it was hard to notice but it bothered me.
These locos were unumbered, don't ask me why, I don't remember. Thank's god I found a pile of adequate decals sleeping in a box.
The locos come with plenty of details to be installed, but some holes in the shell have to be enlarged before installaton.
I also shaved the plastic piece on the cab roof that was suppose to be an antenna, and replaced it with a more realistic detail part.
Installing Kadees is easy, I cut the Kadee box "ears" and very gently file the openings in the shell until it is a tight fit when pushed
in place. I push the Kato pins back in place.
I'll come back with photos.
I gained so a couple millimeters above the current keeper. This solved the issue of the rear end of the shell not sitting
perfectly, it was hard to notice but it bothered me.
These locos were unumbered, don't ask me why, I don't remember. Thank's god I found a pile of adequate decals sleeping in a box.
The locos come with plenty of details to be installed, but some holes in the shell have to be enlarged before installaton.
I also shaved the plastic piece on the cab roof that was suppose to be an antenna, and replaced it with a more realistic detail part.
Installing Kadees is easy, I cut the Kadee box "ears" and very gently file the openings in the shell until it is a tight fit when pushed
in place. I push the Kato pins back in place.
I'll come back with photos.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Wow, awesome job! I never thought of directly connecting the led to the light runner. I cheated and created an isolator and put an led below the main one and put some tape between the runners.
It works, but I still get some bleed through. You method is better.
It works, but I still get some bleed through. You method is better.
The method I use is'nt mine, I saw that on the web, I forgot the author, thank's to him anyway.
I also noticed a bit of light showing by the tiny window on the cab front door.
On one loco it's very discrete, but too much on the other one. To solve that I painted those windows black. It's still a bit visible but acceptable. I assume a crew member forgot to switch off the light after visiting the toilets. Well...
I also noticed a bit of light showing by the tiny window on the cab front door.
On one loco it's very discrete, but too much on the other one. To solve that I painted those windows black. It's still a bit visible but acceptable. I assume a crew member forgot to switch off the light after visiting the toilets. Well...
I slowly but surely finish detailling n° 609. The front left handrail (part BL3), flew away, like so often... Could not find it...Well, I used the right one
to draw a mirror image on a piece of paper and used brass wire to make a new one.
Unfortunately the smallest wire diameter I have is sligthly too big, I decided to live with it anyway, and installed and painted it.
Later on I realized I could dive into my box of old Athearn blue box dummies and check the different metal handrails.
Bingo ! I found one identical and I just had to slightly shorten both ends. Bonus : exact same wire diameter.
Attached is the photo of the metal hand rail now installed. Beside the loco is the WAY TOO BIG wire I first made and installed.
to draw a mirror image on a piece of paper and used brass wire to make a new one.
Unfortunately the smallest wire diameter I have is sligthly too big, I decided to live with it anyway, and installed and painted it.
Later on I realized I could dive into my box of old Athearn blue box dummies and check the different metal handrails.
Bingo ! I found one identical and I just had to slightly shorten both ends. Bonus : exact same wire diameter.
Attached is the photo of the metal hand rail now installed. Beside the loco is the WAY TOO BIG wire I first made and installed.
Attachments
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