First decoder install ever... Intimidating.
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I also have no connection with them, apart from being a happy customer.
I had to cut down 3 mm from the top of the front weight under the cab roof to make the diode and wires to fit. No more room for a speaker.
I will certainly purchase some of their speakers to try and compare the sounds with the phone speakers I have.
I love the sound of mine and I bought 15 for a great price.
What's important it's the sound quality, I don't care about the volume, I keep it fairly low anyway.
On the Blunami app, in the "equalizer" section, you may choose between different options to get the best result from your type of speaker and its size : " Flat, one inch, 2 inches" and so on. 5 options if I remember.
I chose "one inch" for my speaker, after testing, it was the best choice.
I also found out the screws hidden by the fuel tank, I did not touch them, I thought they were holding the motor mounts through the chassis.
I thought : if I don't try, it won't open by itself.
I want to replace the onboard decoder by a Blunami + current keeper + speaker.
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I agree, their speakers are impressive for the size, I keep half a dozen of various types (round/square etc.) for that very reason.
I also have no connection with them, apart from being a happy customer.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
You can buy enclosures to mount the speaker in the roof of the cab.
Yes, I know SBS and their speakers, but with the diode equiped LED I installed for the beacon, I don't think their cab speaker would have fit, even the smallest one.
I had to cut down 3 mm from the top of the front weight under the cab roof to make the diode and wires to fit. No more room for a speaker.
I will certainly purchase some of their speakers to try and compare the sounds with the phone speakers I have.
I love the sound of mine and I bought 15 for a great price.
What's important it's the sound quality, I don't care about the volume, I keep it fairly low anyway.
On the Blunami app, in the "equalizer" section, you may choose between different options to get the best result from your type of speaker and its size : " Flat, one inch, 2 inches" and so on. 5 options if I remember.
I chose "one inch" for my speaker, after testing, it was the best choice.
I finally received a second Blunami PNP8 loaded this time with EMD sounds + a current keeper II, and installed it in a
Kato GP35 phase 1A.
I apologize for not taking any pictures. I removed the original board and also the weight which is above the motor. After measuring
the available height, the weight thickness + the decoder + the speaker + a bundle of wires, WOW, too much.
I didn't mind since the chassis itself is pretty heavy. I had now room at the rear for the current keeper. I used one screw with a Kadee
grey washer (n° 209, 0.10") for insulation, to attach the decoder to the rear plastic mounting post.
I drilled a hole in the cab roof for the beacon. I cut short the two Kato light bars, and installed leds with pieces of shrink tubing to hold
them against the shortened light bars. I also installed a led under the cab roof hole.
I used again an ultra flat smartphone speaker. I put Kapton tape on top of the decoder to avoid any problems, and with a small
piece of double sided tape, installed the speaker on top of the decoder, metal part up.
The fit is very tight for the geep shell is very narrow, I had a hard time to put the shell back in place but made it.
With the app I chose the 567 engine sound, added some reverb and made all adjustments like same acceleration and deceleration
momentum than the GE U36C in order to facilitate consisting. I also adjusted the different sounds volume to also match the GE loco.
I am very satisfied with the result.
Kato GP35 phase 1A.
I apologize for not taking any pictures. I removed the original board and also the weight which is above the motor. After measuring
the available height, the weight thickness + the decoder + the speaker + a bundle of wires, WOW, too much.
I didn't mind since the chassis itself is pretty heavy. I had now room at the rear for the current keeper. I used one screw with a Kadee
grey washer (n° 209, 0.10") for insulation, to attach the decoder to the rear plastic mounting post.
I drilled a hole in the cab roof for the beacon. I cut short the two Kato light bars, and installed leds with pieces of shrink tubing to hold
them against the shortened light bars. I also installed a led under the cab roof hole.
I used again an ultra flat smartphone speaker. I put Kapton tape on top of the decoder to avoid any problems, and with a small
piece of double sided tape, installed the speaker on top of the decoder, metal part up.
The fit is very tight for the geep shell is very narrow, I had a hard time to put the shell back in place but made it.
With the app I chose the 567 engine sound, added some reverb and made all adjustments like same acceleration and deceleration
momentum than the GE U36C in order to facilitate consisting. I also adjusted the different sounds volume to also match the GE loco.
I am very satisfied with the result.
Hi !
A few years ago a late friend gave me an Athearn SD45T-2 (9207) in the Kodachrome paint scheme.
It's a beautiful and detailed model.
I tried to remove the shell, I removed the couplers and the two screws I found hidden under the front and rear sets of wheels.
But the shell doesn’t move. Does anybody know if there are more hidden screws somewhere ? When I received the loco there was no box and no infos.
I thank you beforehand for your help.
A few years ago a late friend gave me an Athearn SD45T-2 (9207) in the Kodachrome paint scheme.
It's a beautiful and detailed model.
I tried to remove the shell, I removed the couplers and the two screws I found hidden under the front and rear sets of wheels.
But the shell doesn’t move. Does anybody know if there are more hidden screws somewhere ? When I received the loco there was no box and no infos.
I thank you beforehand for your help.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Athearn's usually have plastic clips along the side. Try gently prying one side of the shell away from the chassis, put a couple of popsicle sticks in to hold it, and then try prying the other side off.
I'm pretty sure there are two more concealed by the fuel tank. Also, check for two screws just behind the front truck, leading to the rear of the cab.
Thank's bnsf, I'll check that too.
I also found out the screws hidden by the fuel tank, I did not touch them, I thought they were holding the motor mounts through the chassis.
There should be four of those grouped together directly under the motor.
Correct, could you confirm they have nothing to do with the shell removal ? Thank's beforehand.
I double checked, about the two screws I removed, one was right side of chassis above axle 3 (from head of loco), the second one was left side of chassis above axle 4.
I could not find more than those two
I don't think that the 4 screws concealed by the fuel tank have anything to do with the shell removal.
I could not find more than those two
I don't think that the 4 screws concealed by the fuel tank have anything to do with the shell removal.
YES I SUCCEEDED ! Shell is open !
So there are only the two screws I mentioned previously.
I found a tiny drop of dry glue that could have been the issue. Also the paint was sticking.
Well, very tough to open, in the process a couple details broke from the chassis and from the shell side, but they'll be easy to fix back.
Thank's for your help and counsels, I appreciate.
So there are only the two screws I mentioned previously.
I found a tiny drop of dry glue that could have been the issue. Also the paint was sticking.
Well, very tough to open, in the process a couple details broke from the chassis and from the shell side, but they'll be easy to fix back.
Thank's for your help and counsels, I appreciate.
I succeeded, but I'm no king, just very lucky.
I thought : if I don't try, it won't open by itself.
I want to replace the onboard decoder by a Blunami + current keeper + speaker.
I finally installed a Blunami 2200 in the Athearn SPSF EMD SD45T-2.
After unplugging the original DC board I very carefully cut a little bit of the decoder plastic protection and plugged it to the 9 pin plug.
I also cut a bit of the protection on the other end so I could plug the current keeper.
I again added an ultra flat speaker.
To install I cut and removed part of the rear weight. I installed the current keeper vertically on a small piece of double sided gummed tape and painted it flat black to make it less visible through the grills.
HAPPY NEW YEAR to all and the best health possible !
After unplugging the original DC board I very carefully cut a little bit of the decoder plastic protection and plugged it to the 9 pin plug.
I also cut a bit of the protection on the other end so I could plug the current keeper.
I again added an ultra flat speaker.
To install I cut and removed part of the rear weight. I installed the current keeper vertically on a small piece of double sided gummed tape and painted it flat black to make it less visible through the grills.
HAPPY NEW YEAR to all and the best health possible !
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Bruette
Well-Known Member
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