First decoder install ever... Intimidating.

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F

Frenchie

Well-Known Member
Since my layout is now virtually finished, it was time to make an important decision. So far, during construction, I used an old DC power pack to, once in
a while, run a train on the completed portions of the layout.
I own some now old HO DC locos like Atlas, Athearn (some of them blue box models), Kato, Stewart, Walther's, Proto 2000 and so on. All DCs.
I also have 3 DCC equipped locos.

After having cogitated for weeks, I decided to try Blunami which I could use on DC. I cut gaps to make 4 separated power districts and also cut
the main bus cable, which was continuous, to match each district.
Power supply for each district are MeanWell power units. I chose the 6A model which delivers around 12 VDC. They accept any AC voltage (home power).
They cost about 30 US$ a piece, so far I installed two of them.

6A per district is more than I will ever need.

I purchased the Blunami PNP8 with GE sounds for my Atlas U36C loco. I also got the Current Keeper II.
I found on eBay wired LEDs with pre-installed diodes, I bought 20 of them for a few bucks.
I also found a british company selling ultra flat 8 ohms smartphone speakers. They are 50 x 17 x 3 mm, small but efficient. The company plugs the speaker holes for a better sound. They also have a great choice.

The PNP8 is built to replace the Atlas original board.

After removing the couplers and the shell, I removed the small tabs holding the wires, 10 of them. Front and rear right pick-ups, front and rear left
pick-ups, motor top and bottom contacts, plus the front and rear bulbs. Then I removed the original board.

I removed the rear weight and cut it to make room for the current keeper.

Take it easy when installing the decoder, eventhough it fits perfectly, you better be gentle.

I tinned and soldered the existing wires to the decoder, checking their correct tabs as I went. Samething for the new LEDs.
I soldered a third LED to FX3 tab, one wire to FX3 the other to the same "common" contact than the other 2 LEDs.
I drilled a hole in the roof cab and super glued the LED below the hole.

I installed the current keeper on the rear "tower" using double sided tape. There is a small male plug at the end of the 2 wires connected
to the current keeper and a female plug on the decoder, that easy.
I used Kapton tape to fix everything and to insulate the decoder top before installing the speaker. It's soldered to its own corresponding tabs
and installed on top of the decoder with a small piece of double sided tape.

I installed the speaker with the metal part up for safety, and not on top of the Bluetooth chip... You never know... Well I am no expert.

I loaded the Blunami app, Android version for me, on my phone. The choice of sounds and the possibilities are just amazing, I love it.
The DDE option is a must.
Since there is 12 VDC power in the tracks, the prime mover sounds start as soon as I put the loco on the tracks, even with the phone switched off !!

I am really proud of my first decoder install, and I enjoy it.

2000 : Weight cut to make room, later on I had also to remove the rear weight portion.
The original board and bulbs are not removed yet.
- Decoder installed.
- Current keeper installed.
- Both sides of the speakers.
- Speaker installed.
- The 6A power supply, I installed two so far.
 

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Nice! What is the DCC control station? I'm not following what the 12VDC power supplies are doing. Are they just applying 12VDC to the rails at all times?
 
Kusojiji said:
Nice! What is the DCC control station? I'm not, following what the 12VDC power supplies are doing. Are they just applying 12VDC to the rails at . times?
Click to expand...
Exactly Kusojiji, that's what those 6A power supplies do, they send about 12VDC in the tracks, that's it.
The decoder has a Bluetooth chip.
I loaded the free app on my phone and I run the loco with my phone, it's magic.
No DCC command station, no big DCC compatible power supply, no throttles.
Just the decoder and the app on my phone.
It's just amazing and way cheaper.
About 180 $ for the decoder + Current Keeper ll with postage to Europe
A couple bucks for the speaker and 30 $ per power supply. Hard to beat.

It is ideal for people like me that never had DCC.
Important : I don't work for Soundtraxx and I don't get paid for this thread. I just describe my feelings.
 


I just made some tests to adjust all the different volumes and their reverbs.
There is a list of GE prime movers, same thing for bell, horn, beacon types and effects.
It's possible to adjust volume and reverb for all sound effects. You may also adjust momentum for start and stop separately.
I almost fell from my chair when I heard the prime mover with the loco crawling at step 1.
And what about dynamic brakes kicking on.
There is also what's called DDE. You put the loco on a flat and long enough portion of track and activate it. It's then automatic, the loco runs first in step 1 then up to step 30 and stops. This is it, it's memorized.
When the DDE install is activated it automatically disable the momentum and automatically reenable it when done.
My Androïd version of the app shows a cursor for the speed but also a + and a - .
I love the + and - because it's step by step.
 
I forgot, the DDE makes the prime mover sound to react automatically to the changes in the trackage profile. If the loco encounters even a slight grade, you know it just by the engine sound, it's impressive.
The actual loco speed doesn't change at all,
unless you decide to change it.
 
I have heard of Blunami but never really knew what it was till reading this thread.

So its the equivalent of DCC/Sound for DC locomotives?

It sounds like it does pretty much everything a DCC/Sound decoder does.
 
migalyto said:
I have heard of Blunami but never really knew what it was till reading this thread.

So its the equivalent of DCC/Sound for DC locomotives?

It sounds like it does pretty much everything a DCC/Sound decoder does.
Click to expand...
I am no specialist but I think it uses the DCC technology loaded in an application. Then you use the app to send commands via Bluetooth to run and operate the locos. Consisting is also possible.
All you need is power in the tracks. I find it very easy to use. As I said previously imagine no command station, no big power supplies and no throttles, a dream.
The good news are that you can use a Blunami equipped loco on a DCC layout.
It also great for dead rail users owning on board batteries.
You just need power, the Bluetooth decoder and the free app on your smartphone.
When you say DCC/SOUND for DC locos, somehow it's certainly the case.
 
Frenchie said:
Exactly Kusojiji, that's what those 6A power supplies do, they send about 12VDC in the tracks, that's it.
The decoder has a Bluetooth chip.
I loaded the free app on my phone and I run the loco with my phone, it's magic.
No DCC command station, no big DCC compatible power supply, no throttles.
Just the decoder and the app on my phone.
It's just amazing and way cheaper.
About 180 $ for the decoder + Current Keeper ll with postage to Europe
A couple bucks for the speaker and 30 $ per power supply. Hard to beat.

It is ideal for people like me that never had DCC.
Important : I don't work for Soundtraxx and I don't get paid for this thread. I just describe my feelings.
Click to expand...
Ah, got it now. Thanks!
 
I again made some tests, it's really amazing.
In fact, as I previously figured out, the signals
"fly" through the air from the phone to the decoder.
It's so easy to use, no programming track, no JMRI.
I noticed that after pressing "connect", then pressing my loco number, it says "collecting datas" and during a couple seconds all datas are collected and it's ready to use.
Starting now I'll purchase only DCC ready locos and install my own decoders and current keepers. If necessary I'll also install my choice of speakers.
The last problem, but not the least, concerns my 3 DCC equiped locos, never used and quitely sleeping in their boxes.
I see only two ways, first selling them, naaah !
Second option, having the guts to replace the decoders... Wow that's quite a decision, but no rush, future will tell.
 


The Blunami decoders are designed to work on DC and DCC, with the advantage of wireless control, so no command station is needed, just the app.
Ideal for those who like the advantages of sound and control that DCC brings but prefer a DC system.
 
If your phone goes to screensaver mode, does it still maintain connection? I have a Kato bluetooth DC controller that loses connectivity so I stopped using it. I had to power cycle the controller and reestablish the connection. Then it was make sure that the phone did not go to screensaver.
 
I found the most difficult part of installing a decoder is to find space for it. Then you have to be really careful about how you run your wires: use Capton tape to keep them out of the way and use small 30 gauge wire. Fitting LEDS with putty works for most installations. I also smoked two decoders because they were rated at one amp and the motor drew one amp. Make sure you specify a decoder that’s rated for more current than your motor draws.

I’ve converted about eight locomotives, mostly blue box and the like from the 1990s. A couple of them were real challenges to fit everything in. On one, a BB SW1500, I completely gave up on using sound or a current keeper. I probably should have re-motored the locomotive. That would’ve given me more room, and drawn less current.

As you’ve found, doing one of these conversions is very satisfying. But along the way, it can be frustrating too. I thought I was following all the advice that I read, but I must’ve missed a couple of things.
 


Canalligator said:
I found the most difficult part of installing a decoder is to find space for it. Then you have to be really careful about how you run your wires: use Capton tape to keep them out of the way and use small 30 gauge wire. Fitting LEDS with putty works for most installations. I also smoked two decoders because they were rated at one amp and the motor drew one amp. Make sure you specify a decoder that’s rated for more current than your motor draws.

I’ve converted about eight locomotives, mostly blue box and the like from the 1990s. A couple of them were real challenges to fit everything in. On one, a BB SW1500, I completely gave up on using sound or a current keeper. I probably should have re-motored the locomotive. That would’ve given me more room, and drawn less current.

As you’ve found, doing one of these conversions is very satisfying. But along the way, it can be frustrating too. I thought I was following all the advice that I read, but I must’ve missed a couple of things.
Click to expand...
I agree, it was only my first decoder install, and fitting the current keeper and the speaker was the challenge.
There is not much room in the Atlas model.
As you see on the photos I sent, I had to remove part of the rear weight to install the current keeper.
I also had to slightly cut down (3 mm) the top part of the front weight situated under the cab roof in order to clear the LED diode for the beacon. I use LEDS with diodes factory installed, they need room.
I measured 4,5 mm space between the decoder and the shell, I am happy I found those 3 mm thick ultra flat smartphone speakers. They are 8 ohms and accept the
2A delivered by the decoder.
Their sound is pretty impressive for their size.
 
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