EMD GP-50 Details

[Toolbelt]

Something your early version Athearn doesn't have is the laundry chute blower housing. What that is, is the squared, angled blower duct housing found on the SD50 and SD60 models.

Is that at the base of the vertical chute, where it meets the walkway?

 

[bnsf971]

Is that at the base of the vertical chute, where it meets the walkway?

Instead of it being wide and flat, with a rounded top edge, it comes out of the body at an angle, and continues at that angle to walkway level. Most of them had a step near the base of the chute, so the crew had a way to get over it, since it extended almost all the way to the edge of the walkway.

https://jointedrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/p-2563-scr_570d9ccfea9fb.jpg

 

[Toolbelt]

being wide and flat, with a rounded top edge

That pretty much describes mine

 

[santafewillie]

Interesting info https://trainiax.net/mephase-emdgp50.php

Great link.

 

[Myrastation]

Again, it depends on the railroad. Only 5 roads originally ordered them, 6 if you count SLSF; all of which ended up being delivered to BN due to merger. All ATSF units had AC's, but I doubt that the CNW units had them. MP and BN probably did not have them either. Southern Railway units were all high short hood units. As far as service life, most of the ATSF and BN units are still in service with BNSF (107 of them), although many have been rebuilt as GP25's and used as remote control (unmanned) units in yards. UP retired all of the MP and CNW units (80 of them). I don't know the fate of SR's high hood units.

Approximately 1/3 of the Southern units have been rebuilt by NS into an “Eco” unit they are labelling - I think - GP33.

 

[Toolbelt]

So far, I intend to relocate the horn reward to the back of the cab (per prototype pics), add a firecracker and GPS antenna at the cab front, along with a beacon light, sunshades, various grab irons, a more detailed exhaust stack, lift rings and likely the headlights and rear headlight (in readiness for a DC to DCC conversion). The numberboards will be tricky as they're presently just clear plastic and backlit by the cab toaster bulb. I'm just getting back into the hobby after dabbling in it back in the 80's so have much to learn. At this point, I'm more focused on learning what questions to ask, so treading lightly. It's more about learning what not to do, than what to do. Much to learn, although good with my hands and electronics, and creative. But no expert. lol

 

[santafewillie]

So far, I intend to relocate the horn reward to the back of the cab (per prototype pics), add a firecracker and GPS antenna at the cab front, along with a beacon light, sunshades, various grab irons, a more detailed exhaust stack, lift rings and likely the headlights and rear headlight (in readiness for a DC to DCC conversion). The numberboards will be tricky as they're presently just clear plastic and backlit by the cab toaster bulb. I'm just getting back into the hobby after dabbling in it back in the 80's so have much to learn. At this point, I'm more focused on learning what questions to ask, so treading lightly. It's more about learning what not to do, than what to do. Much to learn, although good with my hands and electronics, and creative. But no expert. lol

Yes, numberboards are tricky. I don't know of any after-market manufacturer of boards for the hundreds of Athearn locomotives, but I would think that at least a decal manufacturer could make some $$$. I paint them black and use white dry transfers on them (ATSF style), then seal with dull coat. No, they don't light up, but I never run my layout in a night time mode anyway.

 

[Toolbelt]

Yes, numberboards are tricky. I don't know of any after-market manufacturer of boards for the hundreds of Athearn locomotives, but I would think that at least a decal manufacturer could make some $$$. I paint them black and use white dry transfers on them (ATSF style), then seal with dull coat. No, they don't light up, but I never run my layout in a night time mode anyway.

I was thinking if i could find some really small font vinyl numbers, I could stick them on before painting and peel them off after painting, leaving behind the outline of the number on the clear backer. Not sure if they'd peel off clean, or if my eyes could perform such delicate surgery. lol

 

[KriegslokBR52]

I was thinking if i could find some really small font vinyl numbers, I could stick them on before painting and peel them off after painting, leaving behind the outline of the number on the clear backer. Not sure if they'd peel off clean, or if my eyes could perform such delicate surgery. lol

To have nice number boards it takes quite a bit of work. You can do it the way @santafewillie has done. But to have the numbers light up just like on prototype, you have to get decals which have clear numbers cut in a black background. First you lightly paint the whole board in white (make it as glossy as possible), apply appropriate numbers which of course you'll have to individually cut out of the decal. These microscale decals are what you're looking for: https://images.app.goo.gl/XjxxjN6a1AitPuc97
After that you have to seal the decals with clear gloss.

 

[bnsf971]

Way back in the 1990s, there was a company that offered numberboard decals for N scale locomotives. In modern times with most numberboards already numbered out of the box, it would be a rare thing, but you may find some.

 

[Toolbelt]

Way back in the 1990s, there was a company that offered numberboard decals for N scale locomotives. In modern times with most numberboards already numbered out of the box, it would be a rare thing, but you may find some.

Either that or I need to find an exceptionally small painter, HO scale in size preferably, with a great set of eyes. lol

 

[Snowman]

Not at all. Today we have design software that can draw numbers so precise you can print them out to the literal pixel and print them onto decal paper you can run through your PC printer as though you were actually printing a photograph.

Or actually do print the numberboard you want AS an actual photograph and then cut it out and put it in place. It could be a decal, but wouldn't have to be a decal.

One of the largest hurdles to overcome here is coming to grips with not (easily) being able to print "white" ink.

But even that problem has been solved, and while it's not the way to go where rooftop numberboards are concerned, you CAN do it that way.

Still, it's usually better to print or etch or block the negative spaces around the numbers off...and let the white or gold light shine through.

 

[Toolbelt]

Well finally began detailing this 37 yr old beast, starting with the lowest hanging fruit, repainting the side and rear railings green, and the front/rear climbing rails white (all per prototype). I've ordered numberboard decals from ShellScale, and picked up some lift rings and grab irons from a local shop. Also placed an order with TMR for a firecracker and can style antennas, curved fan end grab, sunshades, MU hoses and cable and low profile weed cutter plow blade. Will also likely add side rearview mirrors, and wipers. That will likely conclude the detailing phase and I'll move into DCC conversion, including front/rear lights and numberboards lights, and a roof beacon, and if possible, sound. Some of the detailing will wait until I do the lighting as those small details will be in the way when handling the cab, and make it more challenging.

 

[Toolbelt]

step two-Number boards, lift rings/rear fan grab bar done, painted head/tail light bodies per prototype (needs second coat), MU hoses/cable, plow, firecracker/gps antenna and sun shades ready to install, grab irons soon to be installed. Will be pulling the cab off to do the lighting before completing the detailing and touching up the body paint.