electrical connections layout


is there anyplace where you could find a layout for dcc that shows the layout and the electrical portion of the layout ie insulators / connectios ?
mike
 
Hi Mike -

I'm not sure what you are looking for. Do you want a picture of layout wiring? Below is a photo of the underside of my small N-scale DCC layout showing some of the wiring. I use 18 gauge stranded wire for the bus and 22 gauge solid wire for the feeders. If the layout was a lot larger, I would probably use 14 or 16 gauge for the bus.

Most of the feeders are attached to the bus with insulation displacement connectors (also known as "suitcase" connectors, also known by the brand name "Scotchlok"). Some of the feeders are soldered to the bus.

If it's something else you are looking for, give us more detail, and I'm sure someone can help.

- Jeff

wiring_on_workbench1_labels.jpg
 
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thank you for the response . here is the layout i would like to do 4 x 8 with bridges / tunnels / and raised track . dcc , not sure making the right descision ( cost ) . the insulation and where to rewire after the breaks . i was hoping there was something i could find where you are shown a layout and how to wire that layout . so some simple diagrams but not to helpful .
 
To wire your layout for DCC is generally easier than wiring a non-DCC layout. In fact, in its simplest form, you could just connect the two track wires coming from your DCC system to the two rails of your layout and start running trains. No insulators are needed.

DCC_simple.png


This very simple hookup will work but may not be reliable over the long term. One reason is that track joiners are not the best conductors of electricity, and over time they get worse. Track joiners are designed mainly to hold your track in alignment, not to carry electricity. Soldering the joiners improves their electrical conductivity, but you have to be careful to leave some unsoldered joiners to allow for expansion and contraction of the layout due to changes in temperature and humidity.

Because of this many model railroaders run a "bus" of two heavy gauge wires (14 to 18 gauge is typical) around the layout, then connect feeders (18 to 22 gauge wire) to the track at intervals. When you do this, you greatly reduce the chance that corroded rail joiners will create a dead spot on your layout. The diagram below does not show all of the feeders you might want to install but hopefully enough are shown to give you the general idea of how a bus system is wired. Again, no insulators are used.
DCC_feeders.png


There are other possible wiring configurations for DCC. For large layouts, it makes sense to use insulators to break the layout into (electrically) smaller chunks. This can simplify troubleshooting and with the right accessories can prevent an electrical problem on one section of the layout from bringing the whole layout to a halt.

The Wiring for DCC web site discusses DCC wiring in great detail. It's a lot to wade through, but the site contains lots of great information.

Feel free to ask questions. There are a lot of people with a lot of knowledge in this forum!

- Jeff
 
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thank you

thanks for the start . i bought the digitrax extra today so i guess I'm committed to dcc . i just came in from the work shop and the powered turnouts i had ( new in their wrappers )( 25 yrs old) don't work , so now i have to buy some of those . ( just spent 150 on track) , but once again thanks .
mike
 
hate to keep after you

jeff , hate to keep after you but trying to understand why i wouldnt need any track insulators for that layout . you are saying with dcc i dont have to insulate the switches ? thank you again .
mike
 
you are saying with dcc i dont have to insulate the switches ?
Hi Mike -

That is correct. If you use "DCC friendly" switches, you do not need any insulators. The Wiring for DCC site has a lot of information about this. Click here.

On my DCC layout, I have no insulators at all.

Non-DCC-friendly turnouts can be made friendly either with insulators or by making minor modifications to the turnouts. But of course it's easier to just use DCC friendly turnouts and not have to worry about it.

- Jeff
 
thanks

glad i came to the site . i really appreciate the help you have given . all i have do now is bite the bullet and buy those dcc friendly turnouts for the layout and of couse a couple of dcc installed diesel engines . might just look at bachmann to see if i really like this or not . the researching has been fun so far but damn this could get expensive .
mike
 
Hi Mike -

There is no way around it; you'll have to spend some money. I've had good luck buying used locomotives on the well-known auction site and installing the DCC decoders myself. That has saved me a bit of money.

However, my first loco purchase was a brand new one with factory installed DCC. This allowed me to try out my DCC system with a loco that was neither used or retrofitted for DCC. If there were problems, I would at least know it probably was not with the loco.

For me the key to model railroading happiness is good trackwork. If your track is of poor quality or is poorly installed, you will never be happy with your layout. It's worth however much effort is required to build trouble-free trackwork.

I wish others would jump into this thread. Additional opinions and recommendations would be helpful.

- Jeff
 
looks like your all alone

cant say it enough , thank you for the guidance , even though no else has jumped in . good thing there are still guys like you around , a definite asset to this site .
mike
 



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