Dullcote Dilemma


IronBeltKen

Lazy Daydreamer
Hi all,

I've got this Stewart F7 shell that I painted in a dark blue shade with Tamiya acrylic paints. After applying the base coat and letting it cure for a few weeks, I put on the decals. Since the Tamiya paint dries glossy, it is great for applying decals - they slide right on and blend in with the surrounding surfaces. Today, after another 2 weeks, I airbrushed-on Tamiya Flat White paint that was thinned 1 part paint to 16 parts thinner. Several passes gave me just the right shade of fading I was aiming for, except for one problem: since the paint was so heavily thinned, the surface remained glossy instead of being dulled by the Flat White.

My plan is, once I have applied the darker powder-based weathering, I will cover it all with Dullcote. But over the past few years, my experiences with Dullcote from a rattle can have not been that great. Unlike earlier times when it would flatten everything, nowadays it only seems to slightly diminish the degree of glossiness. It's as if the Tamiya paint is overwhelming whatever tries to cover it, and absorbs it.

Here are the two possible materials I might use for dulling the finish:
DullcoteOptionsSprayAndBrush.jpg


The rattle-can will certainly be quicker and easier, since I don't need to setup the airbrush for it. However, for reasons I mentioned above, I don't have complete confidence in it. The container beside it has the brush-on form of Dullcote [also by Testors]. I remember people saying they have more success with dullcote when they airbrush it on themselves; so I'm hoping the same will be true in my situation.

So... can anybody who has airbrushed-on Dullcote tell me if it dries flatter or not? And also, what thinner mix ratio works best?
 
Never mind, I'm cancelling this thread - I just discovered that the model I painted was a failure; have to strip it and try to repaint/re-decal it...
 
That is a crappy situation!
BUT, if you were going to proceed, what about a different maker of a dull coat?
 
I haven't used aerosol dullcote for 20+ years because of inconsistent results. I always use the square bottle dullcote. I don't know if it's better, I haven't tried it over Tamiya but it works pretty well over the enamels I like to use.
 
If you feel adventurous I've had good results with a product called Army Painter Anti-Shine. It's made for wargames and military modelers. Did very well on my ribside boxcar tests. As always, make sure you shake aerosols very well before using, and shake them during use too. For $9 you get a massive spray can.
 
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Ken : I still have some old dull cote in the bottle. I honestly don't remember there being that much difference between can and bottle. Its just easier to control and I believe you get better/finer atomization with the airbrush. Its also easier to see if its well mixed vs a can.

Seem like I used 50/50 , It depends on what your going to use for thinner ,Xylene/Diosol I would use as little as I could get a way with to prevent crazing.
 



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