You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Do over
Thread starterf1_indy2000
Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I assume there has got to be a few of you out there that wasn't satified with their current layout and decided to blow it up and start it over. I'm really thinking about it and asked my wife what she thought. She said don't do it. I said I could just re-use everything I have as long as I come up with a good plan. She thinks I might make a mistake and likes what I have, however she really doesn't care about the railroad but more about me and my feelings. She's great, anyway, I guess my delima with my layout is that I didn't plan it right. All my yards are only one way and wish I had a way to travel though them. Not likely with a 19X8 L-shape layout, continueous loop. I suppose I could just do some modifications to it and go from there. Still would like to hear about experiences of those that were fed up and started over and over came the fear factor of failure. Thanks
Mike
Well, in 2007 I redid my 24ft by 38ft layout into a really nice large curves 24ft by 36ft layout. I've never been sorry about the change. I reused a lot of track & about 75% of my buildings over again. I also went w/a DC(MRC) walkaround throttle w/my old MRC9500
I've also done a lot of scratchbuilding this time & added 12 new skyscrapers that I didn't have on the old layout. I did a very small sketch of what I wanted, but mostly had the design in my head.
Model railroading is an ART & you should never try to make it stay the same. Since I redid the layout I have added another 3ft by 16ft table & a 2ft by 8ft table to the existing part plus 2 small bumpouts & this winter am planning to add another 3ft by 3ft bumpout. Still have to add my monorail & a new streetcar.
I just about had my "dream layout" to the point where trains could run and scenery was close to being complete and realized I had created a monster.
So... I tore it down but saved most of it to use over again.
The new layout is less space consuming and has all the operating elements I want.
Now I can see out the windows and even have room for my crew lounge!
Sometimes you can only see what you want by building and learning, does that sound right?
Many of the "Big Names" in model railroading have torn down their masterpiece layouts and rebuilt them at least once. How many times has David Barrow redone his Cat Mountain and Santa Fe for example?
I think one can always come up with improvements to a layout. At some point, tearing it down and starting over will be more efficient than chipping away at the thing. And that's not even considering the times when one wants to totally change the layout terrain or era.
I'm on about my tenth layout now. One thing I decided awhile back though was to go entirely with foam modules. That way it's easier to change out / salvage sections than demolishing the whole thing like I did with my last L-girder and Homasote layout.
Bottom line - if you really want to start again, just do it.
This is my 7th layout. My 1st one was 12 by 22 ft. Then I went to a 4by8ft. Then w/a 4by16ft. Then w/a 12by 21ft. Then w/a 24ftby24ft. Then w/a 24ft by 28ft. Then w/what I have now, a 24ft by 38ft plus 2 bumpouts. The last 4 layouts I used buildings & tracks over & over again.
Plus, I've built 4 other layouts for other people & the largest was 12 by 24ft & the smallest was 4by10ft.
I'm going against the grain a little. Unless you hate the whole layout, try redoing just the parts where you know you have problems, like the yard. You get experience tearing up a small part for a do-over and you may find you get more ideas from fixing current problems for a new layout than tearing the whole thing down and building another one, possibly with the same or similar flaws to this one.
Re doing the whole thing is not a problem for me. I cant get the durn ballast to look right. So far I have taken up 6 sections of flex trying to get 5 feet of the proper look. And for heavens sake, dont clog the frog!
I am in the process of rebuilding my layout, backdating it from 1950 to 1900 era. It involves completely changing the track plan, the footprint and relaying all the track with code 70 handlaid (in addition to a complete change in the engines, cars and details. While the benchwork was able to be recycled (I use open grid) I changed the design to go from the road bed being 6-8" above the grids to over 11" above the grid. That lets be recess all the controls in the fascia.
Instead of ballasting thru the switch consider placing it upside down and laying a strip of duct tape (the REAL silver metal duct tape) then brushing the ballst onto it. When you blow the loose stuff out you'll have a ballasted switch.
(the real railways don't ballast to the top of the switches, not on purpose anyway)
Re doing the whole thing is not a problem for me. I cant get the durn ballast to look right. So far I have taken up 6 sections of flex trying to get 5 feet of the proper look. And for heavens sake, dont clog the frog!
If it's bugging you now, and just making some changes aren't really going to satisfy you, then RIP IT OUT! It's just going to keep bothering you, so the sooner you do it, the sooner you'll be happy.
Only you can decide what to do, but the fact that you're on here asking the question makes me think you should redo it.
Hey Rico,
Thanks for the idea. I will do that (since I am doing it all again).
I am amazed at the assembled talent on this forum.
It's like there is a specialist for everything out there somewhere.
You folks are great.
BM
You're welcome Bob, yeah there's some great people here.
BTW a friend says he used silicone on card stock (?) instead of the tape, might want to experiment on old switches first.
Oh, and don't silicone under the throw bar area.
