Digitrax AR-1 Auto Reversing


Railrunner130

Railrunner130

Well-Known Member
Is there a good tutorial for installing a Digitrax AR-1? I contacted Digitrax and they were able to provide some info, but some of it caused a short circuit in my head. I'm using a DCS-51.
 
That's what the directions say as well. The main pointer Digitrax gave me are to move the insulated connectors away from switches. There was some more info that escapes me now, but I didn't find that info helpful.

Looks pretty cut and dry to me. It doesn't work though. I wonder if the AR1 is bad.

20170530_114713small.jpg20170530_114733small.jpg
 
Establish where your reversing track is in the track plan, isolate the reversing section track from the balance of the layout and then attach the two OUT wires to the track (within the reversing section) and then attach the two IN wires from the buss to AR-1.

Simple hey.

Greg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC_CXLl9Alo
 
Does it work at all? Or does a train stall on it? I have a short reversing section on my layout but I mostly have plastic wheels so it won't short out.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Are you perhaps trying to run a train that is too long for that section of track? The reverser cannot handle a situation where it is trying to adjust the polarity of both ends at the "same" time.

Frederick
 
I've tried to run a single locomotive through (nothing more) and the reversed section is dead. I'm going to mess with the blue adjustment knob and see if that works. Perhaps I'll try a traditional teardrop shaped loop and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't Digitrax is going to get this thing back. Near as I can tell, everything should work. At this point, if I'm doing something wrong, it's because the Digitrax instructions suck.
 
Railrunner130 said:
I've tried to run a single locomotive through (nothing more) and the reversed section is dead. I'm going to mess with the blue adjustment knob and see if that works. Perhaps I'll try a traditional teardrop shaped loop and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't Digitrax is going to get this thing back. Near as I can tell, everything should work. At this point, if I'm doing something wrong, it's because the Digitrax instructions suck.
Click to expand...

If the section of track being fed by the outputs of the AR1 is dead, changing the shape is NOT going to make a difference.

Double check to be sure the power into the AR1 is good - no power in would, naturally, lead to no power out.

Frederick
 
You should be using a bus to power the track and reverser. Those rail joiners aren't very reliable. It might not be getting enough power through all connections to operate the unit and power the track.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
OK. I messed with it tonight. It now works in one direction, but not in the other... I'm not sure what I did...

I'm thinking that there is something funky with the track itself and RBMNfan might be on to something with the connectors. The Digitrax Technical Support e-mail mentioned it also. I had discounted that because I've never had any problems with the Atlas wire soldered connectors that provide power. Perhaps it's the regular connectors that are the issue.
 
As a member getting ready to start a layout, I am interested in what your final finding was. I'm sure there might be one or
two others who feel the same way.
 
Many of the suppliers and experts on DCC and reversing loops recommend that you stagger the rail isolation gaps by a slight distance. Tony's trains has a short tip sheet on installing a reversing loop and shows the staggered gaps.

Gapping both rail gaps at the ends of the reversing section keep the metal wheels from crossing the rail gaps the same time which may confuse the auto reverser by causing a short. The recommendations to stagger rail gaps helps prevent this from occurring.

I installed a Loy's Toys auto reverser and staggered the rail gaps and never encountered any problems. I put some super glue in the rail gaps to insure that the gaps stayed open. One could use a bit of plastic or other non-conductive material in the gaps to keep them open.

Greg
 
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By staggering, you mean NOT putting the insulated rail joiners next together, but perhaps one at one end (left side) of a 3 inch piece (for example) and the other on the opposite end (right side)?
 
Railrunner130 said:
By staggering, you mean NOT putting the insulated rail joiners next together, but perhaps one at one end (left side) of a 3 inch piece (for example) and the other on the opposite end (right side)?
Click to expand...
Yes, That is the idea. It sounds like you are using sectional track. A 3/4" straight would be better. Generally joints are offset by 1/8" or so. Just enough so both wheels don't hit it at the same time. People are able to do that because many are using flex track rather than stiff sectional pieces.
 
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Hi,

Just FYI I use DCC Specialties PSX-AR devices and I do NOT have staggered gaps.

They work fine.

YMMV.

Frederick
 
I've started messing with this thing again. Still no joy in Mudville. One thing I've noticed from rereading this thread is talk of a buss. Please elaborate. The video briefly mentioned one as well, but something had been lost in translation. I have my AR-1 connected to the main line IN and one OUT to the reversed section. Nothing else attached.
 
In your picture, is the mainline on the right or the left? Is the reversing section on the right or the left?
 
The main line is on the right as are the two tracks in the upper left. The area where the two sets of insulated connectors are is the reversing loop. The switch next to the top insulated connectors is just a spur.
 
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I installed one on a Wye last year. It was easy enough to install! The hard part for me was determining where to put the gaps in the track.
 
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