Dead spots


5

5292nate

New Member
Hello everyone. I have a problem.

Whenever I make a loop, with my track, the train runs and then stops. I nudge it forward. It struggles a little more, then stops again. On and on, until I just give up. It's very frustrating. Another issue I have, is with the rail joiners. I set out a couple of years ago, to replace the rail joiners that had been stretched out, and warped. I got some off e-bay, and found them to be way to tight and would not go on. I tried to put them on with needle-nose pliers. They were so thight, that nothing I could do would get them on. Are the joiners my problem? Or is it something elese? Does anyone have a reccomended brand of joiners that work well? I don't know much about wiring. I would like to try and have a train this year is a Christmas decoration. Can anybody help me out?

Thanks

Nathan
 
More than likely it is a combination of oxidation and mechanical 'tightness'...or rather looseness. Firstly, the joiners are not the same metal as the rails, so during powered sessions, there is electron transfer that causes metal ions to shift their locations near the contact points. Most of us who have permanent track systems on layouts solder most of our joiners, but we also solder thin copper wire feeders to those same soldered joiners, thus ensuring power reliably goes two ways from each joiner. It's foolproof, assuming you can solder effectively.

However, the rail tops, themselves, oxidize and get cruddy with organic coverings over time. For Nickel Silver rails, which are almost certainly what you are using (?), the oxidation actuall transmits power, albeit rather poorly. Other track metals do much worse with oxidation. People disagree with me, but I use a small swipe of 600 grit sandpaper to clean my rails, which is very seldom because I run my trains often and use almost exclusively metal wheelsets on my rolling stock.

Non-permanent track systems suffer from take-apart-itis. During handling, you will splay and wear the joiners. If not supported well, the joints rise and fall with the passage of the heavy locomotives over the joiners on the other ends of the segments as well as those over which the locomotive and heavier longer passenger cars or double-stacks/car carriers travel.

So, succinctly, make sure your rail segments are well fixed to a flat and stable surface, and that the joints can't rise and fall. Solder the joiners with feeders if you can. Also, get some proper joiners at a hobby shop or on-line. Figure out which track you have and get the proper joiners. Replace the joiners often...they're cheap, and your displeasure so far is very costly.

That's the tracks. The loco could also be a problem. Steamers need solid connections to their tenders if there is a plug, and all the wipers must be clean and effectively touching their surfaces. No broken wires inside the tender or locomotive, either. Are the tires dirty on the locomotive or tender?
 
As Crandell says, it sounds like you got the wrong size joiners. They do come it different sizes matched to the rail Code.
However, even if you get the correct size some may still be too tight. For these I use a piece of rail and file a taper on the base of one end. Then with the neelde nose pliers force the jounter on to open them to fit the rail base.
 
Thanks to both of you for the help. In answer to Crandell's question, I don't have any steamers. All desil models. How would I find the correct joiner size, and what is the best brand of joiners?

Thanks
 
Atlas sells universal joiners that should work, or you'll have to learn/recall what brand and size of rail you have and get the manufacturer's recommended joiners. In any event, Atlas' 'universall joiners' will work, but they might be sloppy enough that you should solder them. Most long-time modellers will urge you to solder joiners anyway because of the problems that act precludes.
 
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