DC controller questions


Ok, I got the wife looking with me at converting to DCC.

MTS has 2 starter sets that interest me, one is a Digitrax ZEPE Zephyr for $189 and the other is a NCE 524025 Powercab ($229, but is on sale for $179). I know that based on the information provided I could still run my DC models with the Digitrax unit without decoders. That interests me as it would be the bridge between the systems on a temporary basis.

Any drawbacks to either system? I am leaning toward the Digitrax as I've seen a lot of them used on the displays at the train shows.

I know this is probably a Ford vs. Chevy debate.....
 
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Patrick --

Before you settle on digitrax or NCE, I suggest you check out the Roco z21 system.

It's the ONLY DCC control system "out there" that you can "try before you buy".

All you need is an:
- Android phone
- Android tablet
or
- iPhone
- iPad

On the iPhone or iPad, go to the app store and search for "z21". Then download the app and try it out.
On an Android phone or tablet, go to google play and search for "z21".

It won't actually "run" the trains (you have to have the z21 and companion router to do that).
BUT... you CAN see how all the features work with the "pre-loaded" locomotives in "demo mode".

To see more about the z21 and how it works, try YouTube. Some very informative videos there.

I bought the "white box" z21start.
You have to get these from European sources, but that's not a problem.

There's a deluxe "black box" Z21 sold here in America, but it costs twice as much and doesn't offer anything more than I need.
 
I'm not sure of the price, but MRC has the Tech6 6.0, which can run either DC or DCC, with the push of a button. I run both, though not simultaneously. My own layout was originally set up for DC, with blocks, when my wife complained that my steam locomotives didn't go "choo choo"! Net result is I had to add DCC capability. But after 65 years there is no way I can convert all my steam and diesels to DCC, so I initially went with the Tech6. Later, I switched (no pun intended) to an NCE Power Cab with a DPDT toggle switch on the master control panel, and a conventional DC power pack. The toggle switch allows me to change the whole layout from one to the other. The NCE Power Cab has an additional advantage that it is easier to program DCC decoders, and the whistle, bell and headlight buttons are very easy to touch.
 
trailrider said:
I'm not sure of the price, but MRC has the Tech6 6.0, which can run either DC or DCC, with the push of a button. I run both, though not simultaneously. My own layout was originally set up for DC, with blocks, when my wife complained that my steam locomotives didn't go "choo choo"! Net result is I had to add DCC capability. But after 65 years there is no way I can convert all my steam and diesels to DCC, so I initially went with the Tech6. Later, I switched (no pun intended) to an NCE Power Cab with a DPDT toggle switch on the master control panel, and a conventional DC power pack. The toggle switch allows me to change the whole layout from one to the other. The NCE Power Cab has an additional advantage that it is easier to program DCC decoders, and the whistle, bell and headlight buttons are very easy to touch.
Click to expand...

That's why the suggested DPDT with center off on the rails. Theoretically, I could do both systems, leaving my blocks intact, and not have to update the older engines or at least wait a bit longer before doing so. In my case the Mrs. doesn't care if they make noise or not as she rarely comes down into the basement.

2 of my engines are DCC ready (Proto 2000 E7A's), so a decoder for them would be quick. I assume it's just a change in the board under the shell and I'd be good to go. The rest would take some work.
 
J.Albert said:
I bought the "white box" z21start. You have to get these from European sources, but that's not a problem.

There's a deluxe "black box" Z21 sold here in America, but it costs twice as much and doesn't offer anything more than I need.
Click to expand...
The difference probably has something to do with the USA standard for RF emissions. USA is stricter than Europe for certain frequencies - FCC “Title 47 CFR Part 15”.
 
Iron wrote (re the white box z21 and the black box Z21):
"The difference probably has something to do with the USA standard for RF emissions. USA is stricter than Europe for certain frequencies - FCC “Title 47 CFR Part 15”."

I don't think that's the reason -- the "black box" and "white box" versions look to be essentially of the same construction. The black box just has more ports. Of course, can't see inside them.

The white box is generally offered only as "part of a train set".
The black box is sold as "a standalone unit" and is about twice as expensive.
 
Hi, I'm planning on converting my oval layout to DCC+ using Arduino and a tablet. I found some instructions and it looks like the whole thing is rather straight forward. https://create.arduino.cc/projecthu...n-demo-2-67d8a0?ref=tag&ref_id=train&offset=4

If you don't have a tablet or cellphone, that's going to make it pricey, but if you've already got a device, then it's prbably the most cost effective/flexible way of going.

I'm going to be getting the gear probably next week.
 
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