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Hello All, Newcomer with first post...... I haven't played with trains since I was a kid myself some 35 years ago. My children are now at the age where they really enjoy model railroads. My son who is nine just loves the small 4x8 layout we currently have. I want to build a permanent L-shape layout in my shop. The first of many questions I will have is what is most commonly used for the board? Is it plywood? Is it plywood with a foam board product on top? or do some people prefer just plywood? I'm asking because I want to use what is most commonly used these days.
Sharecropper, welcome to the forum. You can use plywood, plywood and foam board, or just the thick 2" foam board. A lot of it depends on what scale your modeling, what scenery you plan to have, how much track, the size of the layout etc. We'd need a few more details on your plan before we could offer any opinions.
If you have been away from the hobby for a while I suggest reading my "Beginner's Guide to Layout Design" (Click Below) It will help you ask the right quesions and maybe save you some mistakes.
It's my plan tp start with a basic L-Shape layout 8x12 and narrow down to 2' along the inside. I would also leave room for expansion on either end. By the way, we will be using the HO scale models. The foam board everyone mentions......Is it a regular styrofoam board? Can it be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot?
I couldn't find the 2" Styrofoam at either Lowe's or Home Depot. But I did find it at a local builders supply. Is your layout going to be against the walls?? That 4' reach all the way across is a pain.
Welcome back to the hobby, Sharecropper. The most common way new layouts are being built is with plywood as the sub base and 2" of blue or pink Styrofoam glued to the top using latex caulk. This gives you an easy way to make things like streams and ditches and the same kind of Styrofoam can be cut and stacked to make hills and mountains. There are lots of threads here and websites that give more information on using Styrofoam. The most important thing to realize is that Styrofoam is not that with bead kind of stuff that's used in coffee cups. It's extruded, dense foam that's being used on the outside of new homes for insulation. If you have any new homes or commercial projects near you, check out the dumpsters since you can sometimes pick up a lot of foam for free.
I can't quite picture you layout but any 8x12 section is going to need some sort of pop up in the middle. As Jerome said, it's almost impossible to reach over 4 feet and it gets worse when you have scenery in the way. If you haven't yet done so, it would be a good idea to do at least a sketch plan of your layout.
OK it's been a few weeks since I posted this thread and here's what I have accomplished thus far. I've constructed the board and painted it. I have it mounted to workstation assemblies with heighth adjustable legs. I have track laid for one DC curcuit and my wife has suggested two lines each on an independent circuit. My wife really wants me to run two lines on independent circuits. The problem is I'm now short on space. Any suggestions appreciated...........
Regards,
Reggie
Can someone also tell me why the thumbnail attached to this thread........
I just noticed your location, Sharecropper. I never thought I'd hear of anybody from Thrall, TX! Not only do I know where it is, I've actually been there several times!
Well, I only stopped there once, the other times I was just passing through on the way to Austin.
Is the large grain elevator still there, or was that at Thorndale?
As far as running two trains in DC, you can run them on completely separate track, otherwise you will have to set up blocks and switch back and forth. There are books available to show you how to do that. Either way you still have to have two transformers/controllers.
Running two independent loops in DC is a giant pain in the butt. Even it they really are independent, as in there is no track from one loop that touches the other, you still have to use two powerpacks and you've limited your mainline run by one-half compared to the one train being able to use the two loops. You've also set a problem of having sidings and spurs that can only be serviced by one loop or the other. How do you make up trains for that independent loop? You'd have to do it by picking up each locomotive and car by hand. The more handling equals the more broken parts and dropped locomotives.
If you want the loops connected, you're now talking about insulating track sections, running wire back to a control panel, and using toggle switches to control where the power goes...and you still need two powerpacks.
For the money you spend on two decent powerpacks, wiring, and switches, you can get a DCC command station and not have to worry about all this. You can get Bachmann DCC equipped locomotives for $50 and less. You can get DCC decoders for any locomotives you have now for $25 or less. Trust me, after having built multiple layouts in DC with block controls, I would never do it again after having DCC.
Putting in a beginner set DCC system now will cost less than the DC system being torn out in a few weeks and replaced with DCC.
The first time your son sees a DCC (with sound)steam engine run on a layout, rails clacking at speed and whistle dopplering in the distance, he will want all the engines to do that. And so will you.
He will want to control his own train and let you control yours at the same time...both on the same track.
Build the double track with switches, passing tracks, sidings and overpasses to give you access to more of your available space.
Now, while you can easily make the changes laying track and before you add any scenery. Plan elevations to cross track, creeks and roads you will have in the future.
Very few of us wind up with the track plan we started with.
Mikey
ST, you mean foam? No need to have it cut by a retailer. If it won't fit into your vehicle, just bring along a steak knife and cut it down. Foam is easily cut with a steak knife and is very easy to work with. If you eventually want to do more intricate cuts for things like cliffs and mountains, a hot wire cutter for about $50 is a good investment but rough cuts are easily handled with a steak knife.
WARNING - styrofoam and all other extruded polystyrene sheets are capable of giving off toxic fumes when heated. That heating can be achieved when hot-wire cutting, vigorously sanding (even by hand) and also by application of hot glue. The fumes given off are of a serious toxic nature (Hydrogen halides) and as such styrofoam's should never be worked in an enclosed environment or without wearing a graded fume-mask with a filter capable of removing the appropriate fumes or preventing their inhalation.
If you have been away from the hobby for a while I suggest reading my "Beginner's Guide to Layout Design" (Click Below) It will help you ask the right quesions and maybe save you some mistakes.
SpaceMouse, I want to publicly thank you for that post. You have helped me tremendously, as I am in the OP's position, but I'm planning and planning and planning to avoid as many problems as possible. Your link(s) are a tremendous help to anyone getting into (or back into) this hobby. Thanks a lot!
Mike, can you please read the 1" Styrofoam MSDS at http://www.dow.com/webapps/msds/MSD...e&txtSearch=sis&txtSort=TPCode&txtSortExp=ASC and tell me where your assertion that even vigorous sanding can result in heating sufficent to give off any toxic fumes is stated? From the information on the Dow MSDS, actual combustion has to occur before any hazardous chemicals are released. I think it's a good idea to wear a respirator when doing anything that creates dust but I think you're overstating the case of the supposed dangers of Styrofoam in normal uses on model railroads. I'm much more concerned about people who have been airbrushing models with solvent based paint, sometimes for decades, without proper ventilation and respiratory protection. It would be interesting to see what the leukemia rate is among long-time modelers compared to the general population.