Code 83 with code 100

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G

gmoore

Member
I have a lot of Atlas code 100 rail that I am going to use on my new shelf layout. I want to add a code 83 45 degree crossing in the plan. I see that I can use rail joiners to mate the code 100 to code 83. Do these work well? I do have the money to get rid of the code 100 and switch to 83, but would like to use it on a siding and the crossover.
 
They work ok as long as you can keep from bending them. They bend fairly easy so be gentle and they'll work fine for ya.
 
I don't know who makes the transition joiners...perhaps there are two or three? Anyway, whatever I used for my own layout were a lot of bother. Yes, they did bend, and they wouldn't even go on the rails unless I did a lot of dressing with a needle file first. A lot of dressing. So, you may find that you will have a much better experience if you simply take it upon yourself to dress the rail foot until it has slightly rounded edges at the corners and that the leading edge is quite thin. Even then, once you have the joiners slid home on both rails, don't be surprised if you have to lift or reduce one rail to get the heights to match up. You should definitely shim any rail foot that is able to be pressed down again with a locomotive's weight to give it support.
 


I made my own transition rail joiners. Start with a code 100 joiner, solder it halfway on the code 100 rail. Use a razor saw to cut through the top of the joiner, make sure not to cut the bottom part. Flatten the joiner and solder the bottom of the code 83 rail to the flat area. Be sure to line up the inside edges of the rail head, as they are the most important. A small amount of filing to smooth any ruff edges and your all set.
I'm not a big fan of plastic rail joiners at all. I don't even use them to insulate rails, I just cut the rail and fill the gap with CA or epoxy.
 
There's also the old Walthers / Peco transition track that goes from code 100 to 83.
However if you're going to 100 on all four diamond leads it'd be cheaper to just get a code 100 diamond?
I use code 100, 83, and 70 on my layout.
 
Why do they have to have two different codes? My walthers 105' turn table came with code 83 track on the bridge and all my track is code 100 which is the most popular type I think.:mad:
 
sinebar said:
Why do they have to have two different codes? My walthers 105' turn table came with code 83 track on the bridge and all my track is code 100 which is the most popular type I think.:mad:
Click to expand...

Code 100 and Code 83 aren't the only sizes of rail, Code 70 and Code 55 are also available.

Code 100 is the most popular for many reasons, it has the largest array of ready to use pieces. Until recently, the other rail sizes were used by hand layers only. Code 83 is catching up in the ready to use category.
Code 100 is also more forgiving. Some cheap toy trains have wheels with large flanges, these can derail on smaller track like Code 83.

The reason for different codes of rail, is the same as everything else in this hobby. The prototype uses different rail sizes, so we can to. This is why many modelers are switching to Code 83, as it is more to scale with 130lb main line rail. I don't remember how big code 100 is in scale, but it was over 200lb rail!

The nice thing about your turn table is that it is easy to work around. Just install the table a little higher so the code 83 rail head is at the same height as the code 100 rail head around it. The gauge of the rail is still the same.
 


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