CMX Track Cleaning Car

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beiland

Well-Known Member
I see where this subject of track cleaning has come again, but got sort of h-jacked. So I decided to bring up this particular one method as its seems to pretty well recommended by a number of members over on this other forum,...with its own subject thread,..
https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/cmx-track-cleaning-cars-12214946

In general after many discussions, it has come down to use of mineral spirits to clean the track, then wipe up that loosened material, then apply graphite for great conductivity. So a number of folks suggest the 'track cleaning train', a CMX cars for dispensing the MS in a rubbing manner, then follow that car with a Centerline car for wiping/drying duties, and perhaps a second centerline car.

Overall it seems to do a great job, but it can get rather expensive, considering the cost of both (or all 3) of those cleaning cars.

I'd like to hear of personal experiences on this forum with the CMX cars. We already have some interesting ones with the centerline cars HERE
 
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beiland

Well-Known Member
Here are some very helpful hints on how to use those CMX cars,...from drip rates to several difference rubbing pad materials

https://tonystrains.com/news/cmx-o-clean-machine/

Take note that these cars are a combination of functions, they both dispense the cleaning fluid, & rub the track with their pads.

It seems most folks like to run 1 or even 2 solvent pick-up/drying cars to the rear of their fluid car.

Both of those type cars are quite expensive. I think I have an inexpensive alternate to both of them.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
from another forum..
At Boothbay Railway Village model railroad exhibit, we have been using two Centerline cleaners, one wet with 90% rubbing alchol and the other dry. Using a dry pickup is important with liquid cleaners because if you do not pick up the solvent, the residue will remove the gunk from the cars wheels, deposit it back on the tracks and spread it everywhere.

When the museum is open, we are running trains 6 or 7 hours a day, 7 days a week.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
I have a pretty big 'outdoor helix' with double tracks, ...and a fairly long tunnel up under my coal mine and over the under some stacked containers in the west coast container yard up there. So a track cleaning train is in order,....one fluid leader and 1 or 2 wipers following it.

My plastic tube test seems to be going good,..no deterioration. But I've pretty much decided on going with a metal fluid container,...either steel tube or steel pipe. I've found some alum tube that might work as well, but it lacks the weight of the steel.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
Looking to buy 1 or 2 old style Roco pad type cleaning cars. Don't even need the shells, ....just the frames and pads for some experimentation.

The bottoms would look like this,..
Roco pad car bottom.jpg
 

Espeefan

Well-Known Member
Over the years my club has used all of them, the CMX, The MNP car with the motor driven rotating pads, the old style cars with Masonite cleaning pads, the Aztec cleaning cars with all roller variants, cloth, Handi Wipes, cratex rollers, etc, and of course the centerline cars. We run a track cleaning train composed of several types working in series. We've found that all do some things well, and none do all things well. :) There are several spots on the layout where what works the best is good old fashioned elbow grease and cleaning pads. The one thing we've noticed is banning plastic wheels and running trains often goes a long way to keeping the track clean.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
So here are a few of my initial thoughts on an alternative CMX car.

The choice could be for a number of 'pipes' (not tubes) with 1" inside diameter. Here I show plain steel pipe that can be bought in short lengths, and cut by your local Lowes store.
There is also a plastic pipe that I have experimented with, and appears to be fine in containing mineral spirits

DSCF8279.jpg


I choose 1" diameter because it can be capped off at the end by a flush 'internal plug' of some 1" dia solid rod material of metal. plastic, or even clear acrylic (you would be able to see your fluid level).

The steel pipe obviously has the greatest weight, and certainly MS is not going to attack it.


That 1" dia pipe also fits very nicely into this frame of this Roco car.
DSCF8281.jpg

DSCF8282.jpg DSCF8286.jpg


Since I am interested in making the cars overall length just a bit bigger than the Roco car, its frame could be be cut into 3 sections and spread down the length of the pipe, while retaining its proper truck alignment. I'm thinking a 7" length of pipe (1" less than the athearn tank car), with a truck spacing of 6 1/4".
DSCF8255.JPG
 
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beiland

Well-Known Member
When I first started thinking of this alternative fluid dispensing car, I naturally gravitated to the longer car idea,..more fluid storage capacity. But the it was suggested that I look at the footprint of the pad on the rails while the cleaning car was in the curves.

Many of those existing cars had pads that work fine on straight tracks, but some questions arise with the contact (rubbing capability) on the outer rail of those curves.

I chose to also consider 18" & 22" curves since many modelers still need to to utilize these,...
DSCF8261.jpg


DSCF8262.jpg DSCF8263.jpg DSCF8270.jpg DSCF8271.jpg DSCF8272.jpg


DSCF8268.jpg DSCF8269.jpg



Those skid pads could be made a little wider, and/or located toward a favored end rather than just in the center of the car,..
DSCF8273.jpg DSCF8276.jpg



Brian
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
Steel Pipe Version first

First I had to clean of all those very sticky info tags and price tags, and check for smoothness,..
DSCF8322.jpg


Then I wanted to clean up those ends that were left a little rough/uneven by the pipe cutter at Loews. So my trusty repaired belt sander to the rescue,.. (idea arose,...perhaps I could just glue flat ends on the pipe rather than finding a well fitting solid tube piece to insert in the end?) ... (and perhaps those ends might be glued on in such a manner as to be chiseled off if ever found necessary)

DSCF8323.jpg

Test fitting,..
DSCF8324.jpg DSCF8327.jpg


Now I decided I was going to prime paint them so I could more readily see markings I might be making on them,...light coloring of white,..
DSCF8328.jpg


test fitting,..
DSCF8331.jpg

that pencil line along there tells me where to line up the 3 pieces I will be cutting the original frame into,..
DSCF8335.jpg DSCF8336.jpg

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Some notable items:
1) I have cut the original coupler pockets off of the trucks as I intend to mount body mounted coupler pockets.
2) I have retained the original metal wheels with their larger flanges (might be an asset with a track scrubbing car)
3) The spring pressures could be increased as the overall cars weight would handle it.
4) The original track scrubbing pad had a small recess in it that could act as a secondary fluid recess that feeds thru a small hole at its center to keep the pad wet,..
DSCF8334.jpg



Pretty reasonable investment so far. Just need to add a needle valve and fluid fill valve.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
Today I cut off a small piece of 0.08" thick clear acrylic sheet plastic,....and immersed in mineral spirits. I want to see if the plastic is affected by the spirits. If not, I can readily see gluing ends on my metal tank of my CMX car.

It also occurred to me that I could cut a piece of that plastic bottle the the mineral spirits is sold in, and glue that to the tank ends ??,...it has an opacity but still lets one know the amount of liquid within.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
That piece of clear acrylic plastic seems to be unaffected by the mineral spirits,...so I guess the next step is to determine a simple way to glue it onto the metal tube,...what adhesive to use??

Two things I like about this idea:
a) transparency allows you to see how much MS you have loaded,
b) ultimately you could pry/split one of the ends off if you needed to in the future?
 




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