close coupling Proto 1000 f3


kenw

5th Generation Texian
Which KDs would i get to close couple an ABBA set of Proto 1000 ? Any other mods needed? The coupler box seems a bit extended already. My typical min radius is approx 22", fwiw
 
Actually, I think that's what's on it now or something similar. You can drive a car (HO scale!) between the engines. After further investigation, I think I'm going to have to move that pocket a bit.
 
I think the problem there is the coupler boxes interfere with the trucks as they swing on the tight radii turns. If you can move the coupler boxes higher on the chasis, you can move them further back into the body.
 
Do you have diaphragms between the two units? If not, that might help reduce the illusion of excessive space between the units. As suggested, I would experiment with the short Kaydee's and see how your engines track vs. how they look. I have to agree that moving the draft gear boxes back might cause interference with the trucks.
 
I have a pair of Genesis F units, and they close couple nicely. However, when I installed Kadees instead of the factory McHenry couplers, the squared off ends of the Kadees interfered with the trucks.
 
What does KaDee's web site say? The have a conversion chart, and several round ended couplers that should work.
 
Which KDs would i get to close couple an ABBA set of Proto 1000 ? Any other mods needed? The coupler box seems a bit extended already.
Kadee #33 with the back end shaved off (the square part rounded) for the rear. Don't know about the Bs. Obviously 1/2 the B is going to be the same as the rear of an "A".

I really miss the old 30 series before they changed the shank. There was no "shaving" required with them.
 



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