Changing Trucks, Axels & Couplers
- Thread starter Larry
- Start date
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
Don't know what I would do if I didn't have that axle reamer when I'm changing axels. I bought mine at Micro-Mark when they 1st came out.
That can of Graphite Powder in this photo is from WW2. At 1 time I had about 50 cans of thst stuff. That's another item you just can't do w/out when working on trains.(same as Greas'em in the little tube).
That can of Graphite Powder in this photo is from WW2. At 1 time I had about 50 cans of thst stuff. That's another item you just can't do w/out when working on trains.(same as Greas'em in the little tube).
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Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Say Larry,
Good tutorial for many as they haven't been exposed to what we have over the years so what your showing is very helpful.
I do have the Kadee Trip pin pliers available but don't have the little side frame axel pivot point reamer available to my knowledge. Although so far all the MDC/Roundhouse Delrin Archbar side frames have worked just perfectly with the new Kadee Ribbed back wheels/axels I've been changing from the old smooth back wheels meant for newer cars than the C&S West has operating. When inserted and painted rusty I give them a spin and they rotate for a long time!
Thanks for posting.
Good tutorial for many as they haven't been exposed to what we have over the years so what your showing is very helpful.
I do have the Kadee Trip pin pliers available but don't have the little side frame axel pivot point reamer available to my knowledge. Although so far all the MDC/Roundhouse Delrin Archbar side frames have worked just perfectly with the new Kadee Ribbed back wheels/axels I've been changing from the old smooth back wheels meant for newer cars than the C&S West has operating. When inserted and painted rusty I give them a spin and they rotate for a long time!
Thanks for posting.
Hey Larry:
Thanks for sharing your techniques.
I'll admit I haven't thought of using graphite on model railroad stuff for some time. So, do you apply your graphite into the truck journals after reaming? If so how do you do that? Do you use a liquid carrier like rubbing alcohol mixed with graphite, then let the alcohol dissipate? Thanks.
Also, if you have the time, what else do you use graphite on (model RR wise)? Thanks again.
You know what's funny? When I worked on the C&TS RR in the early 1970's I used graphite all the time. How? We mixed it with oil to apply to the threads of the wash-out plugs on the boilers of the steam locomotives. When the heat from operating the locos boiled out/dried out the oil on the boiler plug threads (which didn't take long), we could easily unscrew the plugs later on for another boiler wash or inspection because the graphite was still on the threads. The oil was used only as a carrier for the graphite.
DougC
Thanks for sharing your techniques.
I'll admit I haven't thought of using graphite on model railroad stuff for some time. So, do you apply your graphite into the truck journals after reaming? If so how do you do that? Do you use a liquid carrier like rubbing alcohol mixed with graphite, then let the alcohol dissipate? Thanks.
Also, if you have the time, what else do you use graphite on (model RR wise)? Thanks again.
You know what's funny? When I worked on the C&TS RR in the early 1970's I used graphite all the time. How? We mixed it with oil to apply to the threads of the wash-out plugs on the boilers of the steam locomotives. When the heat from operating the locos boiled out/dried out the oil on the boiler plug threads (which didn't take long), we could easily unscrew the plugs later on for another boiler wash or inspection because the graphite was still on the threads. The oil was used only as a carrier for the graphite.
DougC
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
I just take a small paint brush & brush the graphite between the inside of the truck & the outside of the wheel & then just shake the excess back into the can. Then I spin the wheel to make sure it turns free. It won't hurt to get any of it on your rails. I use it for the coupler boxes & I also use it on the Axels of Dummy engines. I also use it in the gear box of noisy trucks mixed w/Lithium white grease.
When I had my welding shop we always mixed Graphite & Lithium grease for all gear boxes on all of our machines. Bandsaws, Transmissions on large Drill presses & the 3 speed transmission on our large bandsaw.
I also used it in the gearbox of my riding lawnmower.
You can buy it at almost any Auto Parts store or hardware store. Same w/the Lithium grease. I use Mineral Oil on everything else. The kind that you buy at the grocery store or Pharmacy(same as Wahl Clipper Oil).
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
There were a couple of things I forgot to mention when using the Truck Reamer. You have to squeeze the ends of the truck a little when using the reamer to put pressure on the cutting blade of the reamer. Also, the reamer only cuts one way. In the photo it shows the cutting edge at the top left side. Turn the reamer to the right until it feels smooth. Then turn the Reamer over for the bottom & turn it to the left. When you start the reamer you will feel the roughness right away. Then when you put the same axel or the new axle back in add the Graphite powder at the ends of the axle.
When you take the axel out of the truck the 1st time, check to see if the ends of the axel is rusty. If you are going to use the same axle again, get you a soft sanding block(foam block w/sandpaper glued on)& twist the point on the axle into the block. It will clean right up & be shiney.
When you take the axel out of the truck the 1st time, check to see if the ends of the axel is rusty. If you are going to use the same axle again, get you a soft sanding block(foam block w/sandpaper glued on)& twist the point on the axle into the block. It will clean right up & be shiney.
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Larry:
Thank you for your response. I'm going to start using that stuff - graphite. I know it is sort of "dirty" (black) but it is indeed slick and doesn't dry out like oil and most? greases.
I've only been using that truck journal reamer for a couple of years. I stubbornly resisted buying it, but I sure like for it helps the rollability of the cars - most of them it helps a lot. And I'm betting that adding some graphite will make them even better. (I've pretty much stopped using oil on railcar truck axles. I do put Labelle 107 on the loco axles.)
DougC
Thank you for your response. I'm going to start using that stuff - graphite. I know it is sort of "dirty" (black) but it is indeed slick and doesn't dry out like oil and most? greases.
I've only been using that truck journal reamer for a couple of years. I stubbornly resisted buying it, but I sure like for it helps the rollability of the cars - most of them it helps a lot. And I'm betting that adding some graphite will make them even better. (I've pretty much stopped using oil on railcar truck axles. I do put Labelle 107 on the loco axles.)
DougC
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
So far in the 2 days I've been working on changing axels, trucks & couplers.
I've replaced 8 trucks, 124 wheels(axels) & 16 couplers. I also junked out a Gon & 1 Flatcar that wouldn't take any trucks(wore out truck center screw holes). These were old Tyco cars.
Next is to buy enough trucks to replace the plastic one's on about 40 of my Passenger cars & change axels on about 15 others. Not looking forward to all that work.
I've replaced 8 trucks, 124 wheels(axels) & 16 couplers. I also junked out a Gon & 1 Flatcar that wouldn't take any trucks(wore out truck center screw holes). These were old Tyco cars.
Next is to buy enough trucks to replace the plastic one's on about 40 of my Passenger cars & change axels on about 15 others. Not looking forward to all that work.
IowaFarmBoy
Member
For stripped out mounting holes I tap a piece of 1/8" Evergreen styrene tubing and ream the stripped out hole to 1/8" then glue a short piece of the tapped tubing in to make a new and already tapped mount. If I ream carefully the old mount still has the flat surface for the truck mount. I just chuck the tap in my cordless drill and hold the tubing with pliers and let the drill to the hard work. I run the drill slowly and back it out to clear the styrene chips every time it starts to bind.
For those snap-in trucks with couplers, I snap them out and pitch them into a bin to become scrap in a future scrapyard. I take a piece of 3/16" Evergreen styrene tubing and slide a piece of 1/8" styrene tubing inside and glue them together. The center hole is then tapped 2-56. I carefully ream out the old snap-in truck mounting hole to 3/16" and glue a short piece of the combined tubes in to permit screw mounting new trucks. I body mount new coupler boxes and have a much more usable car.
For those snap-in trucks with couplers, I snap them out and pitch them into a bin to become scrap in a future scrapyard. I take a piece of 3/16" Evergreen styrene tubing and slide a piece of 1/8" styrene tubing inside and glue them together. The center hole is then tapped 2-56. I carefully ream out the old snap-in truck mounting hole to 3/16" and glue a short piece of the combined tubes in to permit screw mounting new trucks. I body mount new coupler boxes and have a much more usable car.
