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Ok, question is I want to put a left hand turnout immediately after (on the diverging route) a right turnout. The only problem is the trow tie. Can I cut it and CA it to the other side to clear the straight route from the first turnout. Or will it not be strong enough being an end to end glueing? I added some pics so maybe that will help explain what I am trying to say.
Well, it will let me upload the most important photo but not the one with my trackplan. Oh well.
usually in cases like this, I add a thin piece under the spliced tie to give it strength. Basically you would be replacing a weak butt joint with a stronger lap joint. For these I usually use thin styrene, say 020" thick and as wide as the tie.
there are many ways to do this, the way I show is probably the simplest to understand based on what you describe. Other ways involve wire and are a bit more involved.
If you aren't married to this switch, you can go get the Mk4 Code 100 version, which has rails for points instead of the sheet metal points, and you can unsnap the points from the throwbar and move to the other side.
Another option is to use an Altas #66 Under Table Switch machine. Cut off the excess throw bar even with the ties and drill a small hole between the points on what remains of the throw bar. Mount the switch machine under the benchwork and after you are satisfied with its operation cut off the excess protruding rod just below the height of the rails so nothing will hang up on it as a car passes over. Other brands switch machines can be used the same way. I mentioned the Altas because I have one sitting here to be installed so it was easy to give the part number.
I have done several like KenW has suggested. I have even drilled a small hole through the lap and inserted a track nail, CA, and then cut nail off when dry. You may not have clearance for the nail head, but the CA should hold it by itself.
i was able to detach the throw bar and connect it the other way. but it was custom mark4 turnout (i think).
i ended up upgrading almost all my turnouts to peco however.
I just did this on a switch and you'll have to do more than just glue it to the other side. I tried that and even tried to use epoxy and it wouldn't hold. I ended up cutting off the extension and using a wire connected to the caboose hobbies throw. That worked well and I don't have any weak connections to worry about later.
Dave
that's why the lap joint was suggested. It is much stronger.I would use a styrene or plastic cement rather than CA, it is much more shock-resistant. CA can be brittle when the splice is flexed.
Yes, I didn't create a lap joint and that would have worked well. I guess I should have posted here myself and someone would have made me think about a lap joint as well. Anyway, that should work for you and next time I'll do the same.
