The blur is actually the hood of the diesel, right?
In the case of the videos I shot, sprung trucks made the car more unstable, and on a couple of curved areas tipped over. Of course, it would probably have helped if the superelevation hadn’t reminded me of turn 3 at Daytona, but still...Unless you are trying to get the authenticity of the hood being in the view, which I doubt any of those cameras have the focus needed, then mounting on an extra weighted flat car, pushed in front is going to get clarity. I have thought too that if having sprung trucks would help eliminate jumping from any bumps or joins. Replace the supplied springs with Kadee coupler springs and experiment with either 2 instead of the 3 each side those types usually come with. You might even get down to just the center one for the softness of ride required.
It is just pieces of a broken shell glued to a piece of wood, I used a Cannon cab front glued in place, a 40ft boxcar frame and some KD couplers and wheels. It really was made from junk, I never throw anything away it seems.Is that a cast metal chassis? One of the heaviest of those is a Genesis F45 or the slightly longer FP45, most of the Life Like Protos are heavy too. Plastic wheels pick up crud and get bumpy, so wouldn't advise those.
Yeah, I'm like that. "Hmmm, that might come in handy and if I throw it away I'll have to go and buy another one and it might not be as good as this. I'll just put it over there, I'll remember where I put it."It is just pieces of a broken shell glued to a piece of wood, I used a Cannon cab front glued in place, a 40ft boxcar frame and some KD couplers and wheels. It really was made from junk, I never throw anything away it seems.
Yeah, I'm like that. "Hmmm, that might come in handy and if I throw it away I'll have to go and buy another one and it might not be as good as this. I'll just put it over there, I'll remember where I put it."