I have seen a few discussions of utilizing PVC pipe for sub-roadbed, and this particular one is one of the better ones,...
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/137192.aspx?page=1
photos at that site
Then he made a few modifications....
So now I'm wondering if portions of this idea are a possibility for constructing a 30" helix structure?.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/137192.aspx?page=1
photos at that site
Then he made a few modifications....
I will continue thinking outside the box with...
PIPE ROADBED VERSION 2
This is version 2 of the pipe roadbed method.
I used masking tape on the underside of the pipes. Then I added cement between the pipes!!! You don't need to cut all these masonite pieces anymore. Just glue cork roadbed on top of the cement. The cement will not move at all because the round shape of the pipes will no allow it. My cement was not fresh so I got lumps in it. I will try to even out the surface by adding a thin layer of spackle. I think that will be very easy to do because you use the top of the pipes as a support when you even out the spackle. I can asure you that this roadbed will not move in any direction. It must be the strongest roadbed ever... The only thing I need to do is to change the distance between the pipes. It must be a little more when you use cement between the pipes. But I used the same distance in this experiment. Maybe it's possible to join the pipes with smaller pipes instead of wood dowels. Then you can still use the pipes for track power. One cable in each pipe, no visible cables.
photos
So now I'm wondering if portions of this idea are a possibility for constructing a 30" helix structure?.
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