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I recently moved closer to my grandson and thought we could bond with model railroading.
Im sure he'll be interested at first but also know he will lose interest with a fixed layout so i am trying something different..
Im starting with a 4x8 frame but rather than a solid sheet of plywood, i plan on cutting it into eight 2x2 squares.
I do not plan on fixed track at first so we can plan and assemble different track plans.
We will add mountains, hills and lakes to each the 2x2 modules. By using modules, we can move it to a new position in the frame when it gets in the way of a new track layout we're trying out. Scenery can also be strategically placed so it can just be flipped over to get it out of the way.
The first diagram shows the 4x8 table where pink foam has been added for elevation.
The second diagram shows the two corner modules have been repositioned for a different track plan. The cross hatched indicates where the extra two elevated modules have been flipped over.
It seems to be a good idea on paper but im looking for advice on putting it into practice.
B&L
B&L The idea of letting the grandson build his own track plan ( you too ) is great. I can't think of how many iterations I did way back when on a 9x5 gnip/gnop table. That was with brass Atlas snap track too. Then I found flex-track. Whole new can-o-worms as those needed to be attached to the base or sometimes the engine/train would just push them apart and on to the base they would go. You didn't mention a scale?
B&L The idea of letting the grandson build his own track plan ( you too ) is great. I can't think of how many iterations I did way back when on a 9x5 gnip/gnop table. That was with brass Atlas snap track too. Then I found flex-track. Whole new can-o-worms as those needed to be attached to the base or sometimes the engine/train would just push them apart and on to the base they would go. You didn't mention a scale?
Hello,
I've continued to brainstorm the 2'x2' modular frame and how to deal with lighting while still keeping it modular. Here's what im considering...
Initially, we would start with 1/2" plywood and add foam to create elevation. At some point we would glue 1" or 2" foam to the 2'x2' plywood so we can carve rivers and lakes.
I found this 2'x2' flat LED dimable light normally used in the grid of a drop down ceiling.
im thinking we can flip it over and replace one the 2'x2' plywood panels.
We could then place a peice of foam on top where we make pencil size holes under buildings to light them up. Since its dimmable, we could adjust it to the brightness we want.
I was able to run my 30year old Bachmann HO train last week. It was doing a lot of clicking as it ran around the loop. It couldn’t go backwards and couldn’t pull any cars.
I found two cracked gears in the gearbox. After lubrication it runs much better but it will need some repair work.
I made a video for my grandson and the first thing he asked was "do you have any more track?"
I assured him i did but it shows how quickly he'd get bored with a fixed track plan so my modular train board seems to be right on target.
-B&L
I've taken advantage of the snow day and started building the frame for the modular train board.
First i made four 2'x4' frames using 1x3s.
Then i drilled a series of 5/16" holes on each side 3" apart. This provides the ability to mix, match and add modules and legs. I chose 3" apart so i can add a 1'x4' module for a main line when my grandson is ready.
Finally, i connected the four modules using 5/16" carrage bolt, washer and nut. I made a template for drilling the holes so it went pretty quick and the holes lined up pretty well.
I plan to use a 1x4 around the outside for added strength. It wiil be flush on the bottom with the 1x3 frame to provide a 1" lip above the frame to contain the eight 2'x2' plywood modules.
Everything seems to line up pretty well but i plan to plane the top of th frame to remove any height irregularities.
Sorry, the pic showing the 1x3 withe series of holes is rotated.
I introduced my grandson to the model railroading today.
We started with a single loop.
Then we added a turnout for a siding
Then we added a second loop
And added a siding to the second loop.
We went out for ice cream and when we got back he wanted to run the train.
So far so good.
My frame is now complete and leaning against the wall behind the table. I hope to add the legs and facade around the table next.
I built the "Gum Stump & Snowshoe" for my kids when they were young. An operation session usually lasted about 30 minutes which was their attention limit.
Lesson Learned #1
The wood from Home Depot is so bad that i should have stayed away from 1'x3"s and just cut 2 1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood for the frame
My results would have been straighter and more accurate.
Lesson Learned #1
The wood from Home Depot is so bad that i should have stayed away from 1'x3"s and just cut 2 1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood for the frame
My results would have been straighter and more accurate.
My frame consists of four 24"x48" modules bolted together with carrage bolts. i drill holes every 3" down all the sides so you can marry any of the modules/sides together to make a...
1. 4'x8' train board,
2. make a right angle train board or
3. even a long 2'x32' train board without drilling new holes.
I do not plan on permanently attaching the track so we can change track plans every time my grandson comes over.
I plan on using eight 24"x24" plywood panels on top. This allows inclines, rivers, etc. To be moved around as required for the track plan we decide to make. They panels can even be flipped over for more options.
I went to Lowe's to check out plywood options. 1/4" lauen was certainly stiff enough but some of the project panels had a slight twist and would rock when set on the frame.
It looks like I'll have to add a corner brace shown in the attached picture. Its located near the bottom of the frame and 1 1/2" from the top. A 3" drywall screw will be used to go through the 1/4" plywood and into a wall anchor pushed into the center of the corner block. With a 3" screw in each corner, the plywood should lay flat.
The 1 1/2" from the corner block to the 1/4" plywood provides clearance for 1" insulation board when the panel is flipped over. I can still used 2" foam but i would have to keep it away from the corners.
I put legs on my 4ftx8ft frame.
I went with 1"x6"s because the quality seemed better. A couple had a slight bow but none were twisted. The 1"x6" also provides a 2" wall to add elevated features and keep the train from dropping to the floor.
I picked up one 2'x2' panel to make sure it would be stiff enough and it is.
I added a middle leg at 6ft. This allows me to remove a 2'x4' module from the end for a 4'x6' table.
So far the modular design is working as planned.
-B&L
