BNSF TEBC6 Build


wheeler1963

Aurora & Portland Owner
Well I blame this one on Littlefoot. He showed a picture of this engine and it sparked my curiosity. So I bought an old Athearn BB SD9 for the starting point and now I've started cutting. Here's how it looks now.

100_1256.jpg


Basically the sill will be from the SD9. The SW cab will need extensive re-working to make it right. The long hood will mostly be built from scratch. More to come..................... ;)
 
Saw your post on HOYardsale and knew something was up :D
I'll take full responsibility for this one, can't wait to see it finished!
 
I can not wait to see this one done. This engine has been one I have been wanting to build, just do not have the time and have WAY too many engines in various stages of competition. Is yours going to be powered or a dummy?
 
Jeff, I won't know if the motor will fit until I get the new hood built. If at all possible, I'd like to have it powered.
 
huh..thats interesting... id love to see the prototype photo your referring to..thats one monster of a switcher!
 
huh..thats interesting... id love to see the prototype photo your referring to..thats one monster of a switcher!

Here it is.

Ill further derail your thread with questions as well. :D

Ever done a TEBC6? Ive had this idea on the back burner for awhile now, and any ideas where to start from? I know they were built from SD9s, but have no clue what to do about the hood or Cab. *not my picture

2572.1234774194.jpg

Nice to see you take this one on Jerome. I am looking forward to the build.:cool:
 
Well all's I can say is it will not be an easy one. That cab alone will be 3 different cabs in one. And I haven't found a good source for the brake blister on the sides yet either. They are level with the top of the hood. Anybody with ideas, please chime in!!
 
File down the original blister? If not, cut out the blister, replace it with the top of a hood section from a different loco, cut the sides off of the original blister, file off the top, then glue them onto the sides of the new hood section, and drill the hood section for fans?

Or, maybe you can use a modified SD38/SD40 blister with slight modifications?

Now that I think of it, where's the tailpipe on that thing?

If all else fails, why not build the one without fans? All of the TEBC6s are slugs. I assume that the fans are there for dynamic braking.

DSC04417.jpg


Some of them, such as this one, have interesting cab windows

pascox087.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jamie, I agree, it would be easier. But I'm set on making it with the DB on top. And just filing the existing DB down won't work. It's not even the same style DB. It's not an SD40 or anything else I've seen that's right yet. The search continues................
 
Jamie, I agree, it would be easier. But I'm set on making it with the DB on top. And just filing the existing DB down won't work. It's not even the same style DB. It's not an SD40 or anything else I've seen that's right yet. The search continues................

Here is another nice side shot of the DB.

http://www.locophotos.com/~locophot/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=112158

I think I might have a possible solution Jerome. The DB hatch from a GP38-2 would have a flush surface once you filed off the details, and could be spliced into the hood?

View attachment 23338

These are an Athearn part. The only problem I just noticed is that you would need to splice two together to get the proper length for the spacing of the fans ontop.

Man what have you gotten yourself into?:D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
But also notice the length of the grills on the side, then also the access doors, then the tapered ends. That is why I said it don't know of one, plus being straight level across the top.
 
If I were to make that model, I would use the SD9 frame and walkways. Then from a athearn SW1000 the cab and cab base. And finally a Athearn SD40-2 dynamic brake hatch.

On the SD9 cut off everything above the walkway.

On the SW1000 shell, cut the cab base from the shell.

On the SW1000 cab, rebuild the top of the cab in the angular shape on the prototype using styrene.

On the SD40-2 Dynamic brake hatch, remove the exhaust port and file the area ahead of the side access doors to the angle seen on the prototype. Then incorporate the hatch into a scratchbuilt long hood.
 



Back
Top