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Diesel Detail Freak
Well here's a mini-clinic/show off. I intend to show the progess of detailing this unit here, since I LOVE detailing units.

This unit started with a RPP SD60M shell, & OMI Chassis. I've made slow progress on the paint sceme, its "done" now. Now I add details to include:
(X) Plow
( ) MU cables
( ) Ditch lights
( ) Airlines
(X) Cab sunshades
( ) Cab wind deflectors
( ) Air horns
( ) Lift rings
( ) Antennas
( ) Grab irons
( ) Cooling fans
(X) Crossover plate on fan buldge
(X) Rear headlight
(X) A-line etched steps (applied on this one, over the stock steps)
( ) Locomotive data decals
(X) Cab Interior
( ) Sergent Eng. EC87 couplers
( ) Coupler Cut Bars
( ) Windsheild Wipers
( ) Air Tanks
( ) Sand Filling Hatches
( ) Brake Wheel
( ) Traction Motor Cables
( ) Sand lines and other underframe lines
( ) Fuel tank details *mounting brackets and corner braces*
( ) Number boards
( ) Anything else I've forgotten...

Done now:
Sunshades (of note, look at the headlight, thats the rear headlight from a Kato SD40-2):
View attachment 2643

View attachment 2644

Cross over plate...
View attachment 2645
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Diesel Detail Freak
Yeah, that unit is only available in brass, which its just slightly cost prohibitive!



Looks good, I see you have Sergent couplers on your list. Have you been running them yet, or will this be the first? If not, what do you think of them? They look like a very proto way to go, plus they look the part and the "mag wand" to open the knuckle looks interesting too.


Diesel Detail Freak
I have 10 total EC87's, or 5 cars. They're amazing, I don't know how they'll be on a layout that has lots of switching, as there are no automatic uncouplers. They hold a VERY tight bond when coupled though, more prototypical. You don't even have to buy the uncoupler, if you have a mini-screwdriver with the screw magnet on it, they work fine. Down side would be the price, and the friction spring installation. They're awsome, I suggest to anyone, to just buy one built pack and see for yourself.


Diesel Detail Freak
Steps applied, front and back, I like the way these look, even with the molded ones under them.


Diesel Detail Freak
Did some painting, I've been busy with so many units that I took a break on #9277. I have to paint the handrails this week, and install them with the blower housing step guard that I picked up this past weekend. I'm just showing now that I painted the unfinished details so far. And I'm working on handpainting the sideframes and fuel tank, much easier then trying to figure out how to remove the sideframes.


Lazy Daydreamer
Looking really good so far, Josh!

Many of the CSX EMD units I would like to model have nose-mounted headlights, and I've never seen any of the well-known companies (Detail Assoc., Canon & Co., DW) sell these. Do you know of anybody who makes them?


X-CSX modeler
Looks good Josh, Ive been slacking on my projects! Ken I know what you mean, most L&N units have the nose lights, I want to find out my self! Save a lot of time from cuttin and puddy.


Diesel Detail Freak
If you're looking for Standard cab noses, fill me in if you find them. I've reverted to cutting the noses from my BNSF units. Although, it may be easier if you use a Cannon cab & nose, cutting and installing the nose headlights before assembly. The high headlights are not pre-cut on the Cannon cabs, so you can glue on a DA, or DW blanked out headlight plate.


Been Nothin' Since Frisco
Cutting in nose lights on Cannon noses is pretty easy. I build a lot of high nose locomotives and replace long hood ends on a lot of locomotives, so it seems like I always have a Cannon headlight casting (which I prefer over the DA or DW castings) laying around to use for this purpose when I have a low nose unit to add a headlight to. It's more difficult on Athearn noses, but only because you can't do the work with the front of the nose as a separate piece.

The easiest way to do it is cut a piece of tape to the size of the headlight opening, minus about 0.020~0.030. Using a small drill bit (#80) and the edge of the tape as a guide, drill a series of holes around the perimeter of the tape leaving a space between each hole about the size of the holes you're drilling. Then, using a sharp blade with very little pressure, connect the dots. Punch out the section of the nose you have just drilled around. Dress up the resulting hole with jeweler's files. Next, construct a backing plate to fit up into the inside of the nose. Leave a flat space on the backing plate to mount the headlight casting onto. Dress the joint between the backing plate and the nose with putty if necessary and then mount the headlight.
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Lazy Daydreamer
RCH said:
Cutting in nose lights on Cannon noses is pretty easy...The easiest way to do it is ...
Thanx for posting this Ryan, I've got this one bookmarked for when I tackle my SD38-2!


Diesel Detail Freak
March 12th 2006:

Well this past week I've been on the heels of the SD60M. Got the fuel tank, and side frames painted green, now I just need to "dust coat" them.

Add to that, handrail stanchions from Smokey Valley (they're complex, but very good looking), along with the begining of the handrails:
View attachment 3028
View attachment 3029

Then there's the Fuel tank filler and level indicator in red:
View attachment 3030

And last for today, ditch lights, and Sergent Eng. EC87 couplers (friction springless right now, as they will be coming back off once I get the decoder, and some add-in weight:
View attachment 3031


Lazy Daydreamer
WOW Josh, that is gonna be one superdetailed unit! Add some weathering and you'll be giving Jim Six a run for his money...

BNSF dude

BNSF foamer
Oh i got and idea! A guy from Lok Pilot was here and I got to see him. Why dont you mill out the fuel tank and put in LOK sound in it.


Diesel Detail Freak
Was thinking of that, but a Digitrax sound unit will fit into the body, and not comprimise the weight of the unit. That comes later though I have to finish the unit first. My biggest problem with sound units will be the fact that running them with a non-sound unit can cause issues. I have units, particularly the LL P2K units that will take a ton of work to fit a speaker into.

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