Back in the cab again, after 20+ Years

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C

carls

New Member
I am getting back into the hobby again after 20+ years, I want to do it right because I plan on it being a long term project. I have been doing a lot of reading and observations on various topics and have settled on the following:

Code 100 Because of cost and dependability
PECO Switches and crossings, Unless someone can convince me to use the newer Atlas, they have case frogs now, that is good ;-)
ATLAS Flex track Again Cost
Roadbed by the roll cork (Make my own)
DCC - Digitrax (Super Chief Radio 8A)
Unsure about rolling stock and engines, would like to model either B&O, Ill Term, CS&X, maybe BN. I live in Central ILL Close to St Louis, all those come through there.
Manual Switching, with Tortoise for the out of reach areas, if there are any.
I would like to go DCC and Sound, and maybe DCC for the switches.
Would like a turn table but not sure if its worth it or not.

Here are my room dimensions for the available space I have, I am looking for recommendation/ideas for a layout design, my main desires is for a med to large yard with the ability to run at least two mainlines at once and some nice out of the way industrial areas. The room is 28'7" long, and 13'3" wide it is partially finished with unfinished concrete walls on two adjacent sides (corner), the door is on an end of the 28' side within 3' of the corner. I will take some photos and upload them so you can have a better idea of the area.

I would like to have a multi level layout to add some length and depth to the experience, I am not that concerned at this point with scenery and do not plan to have a large amount of detail, maybe just mountains and tree areas, few structures, except for maybe the yard area, two yards would be nice but maybe that could be an expansion for a later date.

Thanks for your input!
Carl from Bethalto, IL
 
Sounds a bit like the same size as a long single car garage - at least I think mine finally came out to be about 23x13 inside dimensions. Practically the same thing with the door (although I had two to deal with).

First thing to do - finish it, and paint it in whatever you want for your sky backdrop colors.
 
The one thing that no one ever seems to think about when planning their're new layout is do you ever plan on moving? That's the first thing I thought about when planning my layout 11 years ago. What if we move? And the way taxes keep going up in New York and I being retired soon it might happen. I did make plans if the taxes become to much to bare.

NYC_George
 


Well believe it or not I did think of that, and we are middle aged, and although we would like to eventually move to the Florida panhandle, I doubt financially we would ever do it. But there is always a chance. A modular design would be prudent for sure, but I am not a real fan of doing that with all the breaks in the track, but all the advice helps and is appreciated for sure. The people in the model railroad hobby are a great much of people for sure, never meet one who was unwilling to help. Thanks everyone!

Carl, From Bethalto, IL
 
I think the black foam roadbed from Woodland Scenics is superior to cork for both ease of use and noise dampening.

Code 100 track is fine but check out the prices of Code 83 - it's not much more than Code 100 and does look a lot nicer.

PECO switches are great but I would check out some of the newer Atlas switches too. They've come a long way.

If you have a lot of experience laying flex track, Atlas is fine but I've found the Model Engineering flex track to be much better holding curves with a lot less work.

DCC is the way to go, no doubt. DCC for switch machines can get awfully pricey though. I find the Atlas undertable switch machines and a small control panel to be a better alternative for the few powered switches I have -everything else is ground throws.

I personally don't think a turntable is ever worth the real estate but they sure do look nice. :)

There is a ton of really nice new locomotives and rolling stock out there compared to 20 years ago, You'll have to check around to see what you like (and can afford).

While you are assembling part of your materials, you should be getting a vision of what you want your track plan to look like and getting it down on paper. There are several free track planning software tools available, including one from Atlas and XTrkCad from http://www.sillub.com/. Both are free. They take some learning but you'll end up with a better layout if you have a good plan.

Good luck and welcome aboard.
 
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I don't know if the notion of moving is something that should be an overriding concern, unless you've talked about it beforehand. If you're in the position where that issue has come up occasionally/frequently, then you should plan around that. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

The reason I say that is because based on your comment about what you're planning as far as 'scenery' is concerned, you're not going to be able to move it anyway. And, the chances of you finding another 28x13 space I don't believe is that great.

Certainly, if you're not planning on moving in the next 5 years, you should just build what you're going to build. If and when you move, you can salvage whatever you can, and move on to a new layout. You don't appear to be building the next 'Great American Layout' (though it might turn out that way), so I wouldn't spend much time concerned about stuff that probably won't happen any time soon.

Also, think about this. How many 4x4 modules, mainly mountains and trees, plus some cities and the like, would make up 28x13 worth of space, per your plan? Are you REALLY going to have somebody move all of that stuff?

Kennedy
 
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Thanks for all the great input!

I seriously doubt if we will be moving in the next 10-15 years, we talked about that last night and I think that is not going to happen.

I have the software I just need to figure out what i want, I was hoping to get some ideas from you all.

Thanks!
Carl, From Bethalto, IL
 
UP2CSX said:
I think the black foam roadbed from Woodland Scenics is superior to cork for both ease of use and noise dampening.

Code 100 track is fine but check out the prices of Code 83 - it's not much more than Code 100 and does look a lot nicer.

PECO switches are great but I would check out some of the newer Atlas switches too. They've come a long way.

If you have a lot of experience laying flex track, Atlas is fine but I've found the Model Engineering flex track to be much better holding curves with a lot less work.
Click to expand...

I will probably be buying all new rolling stock as I have very little left over from my first layout. I do have some stock from my Athern ready to roll layout I purchased about a month ago, but nothing any older. So Code 83 I suppose will be better.
 
Code 83 will certainly look better, especially if spend the money and get the Atlas code 83 with the brown ties. Since you'll have almos all new equipment, everything should work fine on code 83 and those smaller rails and brown ties really make difference once you get it all ballasted.
 
It seems to me that there aren't a lot of layouts that even last 10yrs before they're torn down and rebuilt. Interests change, sometimes the layout 'just doesn't click', etc. First layouts tend to be like this.

Not to say you will fall into this category, but you never know. Down the road, on your 2nd-3rd layout, you can think about making it more portable. By then, you'll have a good idea what you want to do, and what you want your layout to represent.

Kennedy
 


carls said:
Unsure about rolling stock and engines, would like to model either B&O, Ill Term, CS&X, maybe BN. I live in Central ILL Close to St Louis, all those come through there.
Click to expand...
Time period might help here. B&O is ancient (1840) to 1970ish, BN is 1970 to 1995, CSX is mid 1980? to current. I don't know about the Illinois Terminal. Point is, if you like one time period better than another it will help determine which of these to choose.

maybe DCC for the switches.
Click to expand...
Think about that one from an operational perspective long and hard before you spend the money to do it. Train is coming up to a turnout. Approximate DCC sequence: 1. remember the turnout channel number. 1a. Can't remember turnout number so look it up. 2. flip the sytem into aquisition mode (if you are using Digitrax you have to plug in). 3. Aquire the turnout number. 4. Change the turnout. 5. punch through the stack to aquire the locomotive again. Approximate other turnout control sequence: 1. reach over and throw the turnout or turnout switch.

Would like a turn table but not sure if its worth it or not.
Click to expand...
One can have a turntable without a round house!
 
GandyDancer said:
Think about that one from an operational perspective long and hard before you spend the money to do it. Train is coming up to a turnout. Approximate DCC sequence: 1. remember the turnout channel number. 1a. Can't remember turnout number so look it up. 2. flip the sytem into aquisition mode (if you are using Digitrax you have to plug in). 3. Aquire the turnout number. 4. Change the turnout. 5. punch through the stack to aquire the locomotive again. Approximate other turnout control sequence: 1. reach over and throw the turnout or turnout switch.
Click to expand...

Not even close man! It is very simple to do. You Don't have to plug in on a Digitrax system to do it either. It is still more work then throwing one by hand, as is your basic point, but don't blow things out of proportion.

DCC controlled switches are a cool feature for main lines, especially if you want to have a dispatcher and CTC as an option for your layout. I don't recommend DCC controlled switches for everything, as they get expensive. But for modern main lines and hard to reach places, they are great. And they always impress the non-modelers.
 
I'm a ground throw kind of guy so I won't get involved in the DCC controlled switch debate. :) If I can make a suggestion, think about the kind of room and layout lighting you want and need. You need enough overall light to be able to see well while you're doing construction and you need some spot lighting at various points in the layout to brighten up the corners. If you do that now with some more fluorescent fixtures and tracks lights, you'll thank me in the future. I know you want to get started on that layout (I can see what you already have on the floor :) ) but proper lighting, installed before you have to reach over and step on things that break, will be an immense benefit in the future.
 
If I went with Peco turnouts, they have a spring that keeps the switch points in place. Ground throws would do the same I suppose for Atlas or hand laid. I am trying to determine what is the most cost efficient way of getting the track work done, then at a later date if needed install the switch machines. I would prep the hole when the switch machine needed to go. I appreciate all the input, keep it coming.
 
I have purchased several issues of model railroader magazine, I suppose I should buy a subscription. I had been getting subscriptions about 20 years ago, and unfortunately I threw them all away when I moved from my parents (Sure wish I had kept them). I considered it just to have access to all the layouts they offer, any other place you can recommend to find layouts to use as starting points?

I am really not set on any one era, or line. I am more of a hands on guy, I enjoy the art of modeling, the track work, wiring, technology side and such. I live close to the "Dome" here is a google link, this would not be a bad place to start I suppose, they have a large yard there.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=...pn=0.005906,0.009087&t=h&z=17&iwloc=addr&om=1
 
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