Atlas turnouts


M

maczimb

Member
Last weekend I installed 6 Atlas HO code 100 #6 turnouts, complete with remote switch machines and switch controls.
Everything was pretty easy to install, with easy to understand instructions, until I came to the wiring.
Several of the terminals on both the switches and the switch controls are not tapped all the way through. After stripping a few of Philips heads, I drilled out any that offered the slightest resistance, and used a screw and nut to attach the wire. If I had a tap I would have made the fix accordingly.
I'm sure some of you guys have had this same problem, although the fix is pretty simple, we shouldn't have to deal with it. How does one get Atlas to sit up and take notice???
Mac
 
Post a polite observation on their forum (go to their website), and also send an email through "contact us" at their website. Between those two prongs, you are sure to get some notice...hopefully positive.

-Crandell
 
I found my N scale atlas code 80 turnouts to be very poor quality overall, I am building a small yard addition, and I am going to try a different brand I think.
 
I've had nothing but problems with Atlas switches. Derailment, frogs of poor quality(uneven causing the derailments), flashing in the frogs, uneven points. Peco switches are not much better.

I switched to Walthers(made by Shinohara). They have the Shinohara quality at a better price. We did the same at our old club.

Atlas engines and Flex Track are OK, but their switches leave something to be desired. I actually would not walk across the street if they were giving Atlas switches away.

Bob
 
Atlas switch machines are crap. I have used probably 20 code 83 #6's and haven't had problems. It seems most problems come with the Code 100 products.
 
The old layout used code 83 Atlas switches in the yard, the new yard is ME code 83 equipped and running much smoother. By the way, the main is code 100 with Pecos. Otherwise all track is Atlas, which I prefer.
I noticed the locos with sound tended to "restart" when crossing the Atlas switches which was very (did I mention very?) frustrating.
 
Huh, that's weird.

My switches on my layout have the atlas dead frogs and I run my sound engines over them all the time- no problem!:confused: That's kinda weird. Maybe it's just something with the C83 ones?

I kind of like their turnouts. I just remove the machines and saw off the lugs. I occasionally mount ground throws to the point bar...In my opinion, they are very reliable and trouble free- not very maintenance intensive.
Just my 2 cents worth.:)
-Chris
 
Chris: I have to agree with you.
Although I prefer Walther Shinohara, I have several Atlas Code 83, #6's, around the layout with Tortoise or ground throws. Never had a problem with any and some have even been pulled and reinstalled other places several times...they still took the abuse. Walthers Shino's have become so hard to get (and pricey), I now try to work in the Atlas 6's.;)
 
Good P. R.

I emailed the Atlas guys and got a prompt reply in which they offered to replace any bad parts.
I declined the offer because I have made the necessary modification and all is well.
Regarding some of the rather harsh criticism of Atlas. Although I am new at this, I haven't seen any of the problems mentioned. I am, in fact pretty pleased with the way my Atlas turnouts function.
I do have a couple of Shinohara turnouts and I am having problems with my Proto Erie-Built loco. It has an eight wheel drive and I believe it doesn't like the radius.
Mac
 
I use minimum #8's on my mainline. #4's and#6's in the yards and industrial sidings. My 2-10-2's have no problems with the #8's, but I don't highball them either. These engines are the longest rigid drives I have.

Atlas had QC problems a few years back, I think. Hopefully they took notice. And apparently they did. My yard and switching modules were the first attempted, the mainlines came last. I couldn't even get an 0-4-0, 0-6-0 or an SW1 to navigate most of the Atlas switches at that time. They would jump the rail and not get past the frogs. The problem became evident early in the yard build. Thankfully. There are some 40+ switches there, Y's doble slips and such. I switched to Walthers/Shinohara and the problems ceased.

I hope that Atlas did see the problem and fixed them. It sounds as if they have. But, too late for me. I still use their FlexTrack, but will continue to use the switch manufacturer I have.

Bob
 
Atlas switches do have some uneven quality control but I've found the problems are usually fixable with a few minutes work, mostly filing the points making sure the frogs are the correct width and depth. Atlas switch machines are another matter. They are very poorly made, look lousy on a layout, and will burn out at the slightest provocation. I use ground trhows for any switch I can reach and Tortoise for those areas I can't reach. It seems kind of odd to use a switch machine that costs more than the switch but, once you get them installed right, the Tortoise is pretty much bulletproof. If I was building a new layout and had unlimited funds, I would using nothing but Shinohara, assuming I could find enough of them. Peco would be my second choice although I've had Peco switches that gave me as much trouble as any Atlas switch. For the money, Atlas still makes a decent switch in their Customline series. Yous should avoid Snap Switches like the plague unless you just don't have space for anything else.
 
Walthers Shinohara turnouts are very dependable, look very good, and I recommend them, BUT:
I should mention that you must be careful with flexing the rails on W. Shinohara turnouts. The metal jumpers for power feed are located on the bottom and spot welded to the rails. If you flex the rail during installation, it is possible for the weld to come loose. This was a terrible problem when Walthers first came out with the DCC Friendly. Since then, a better process is used and is not a common occurance unless your really get rough with them. This may seem pointless since you shouldn't be flexing them, but I know a few modelers that handle them like they were the old Lionel track.

Note: Walthers has no problem replacing the turnout, if this should happen to you. You can solder the jumper back in place (it's near impossible not to damage a few ties) or just provide a power feed to that track that has the bad turnout jumper, i.e. dead end siding.;):)
 
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