Atlas Track - Code 55 vs Code 80 ??

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pulaskius

New Member
After much thought I decided to go with N-Scale. The space I have to work with measures 10' x 7' and after playing around with a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood I quickly decided I didn't like one of those. I designed a horse shoe shaped bench 10' feet long with a 30" x 6' leg on one end and a 36" x 4' leg on the other end connected by a 27" deep section.

I have started buying up N-Scale equipment and just ordered a Life Like Proto N Scale GP38-2, part #75019. Looked like it would be a good one.

When it comes to the track I realized that I don't know a thing about it other than I want to use Atlas with a cork bed. So ... can you tell me what the difference is between Code 55 and Code 80 Atlas N-Scale track ?

I have 10 different cars on the way and this one beautimous Loco that I really liked the looks of. All help appreciated :)
 
The Proto GP38-2 is a great choice. I had a chance to see one run a few weeks ago and was very impressed with how smooth and quiet it was. I'm an HO guy so I don't often get a chance to see the newer N gauge products. The older N gauge locomotives had grossly oversized details and tended to go straight from rest about 120 mph. :) The N scale Geep compared very favorably with my HO version of the same locomotive. If I was new to model railroading, I would go with N scale today but I've got a few too many dollars (and time) invested to switch now.

One comment about your layout. Without seeing a track plan, I may not be visualizing it properly but that 36" by 4' section could be a problem unless you have access to three sides. The average reach is 33" and you'll have a tough time getting to anything over that without breaking something on the layout.

I would go with code 55 track for a new layout. It will look much closer to scale than code 80 and all your equipment will run fine on it. I would also invest in Peco turnouts rather than Atlas. They look better and operate more reliably than Atlas in N scale.
 
I'd agree with Jim's comments.

I've been an N scaler for many years now and it is WAY better then it used to be. It's a good time to be in N!

Can't tell you much about the loco as I'm all steam.

As to track, I went with all Atlas track, but I chose code 80 for all of my hidden areas and code 55 for anything that is sceniced. The biggest thing you need to know about Atlas code 55 is that on older equipment (loco's and rolling stock) and the "out of the box" newer Micro-Trains cars (inexcusable if you ask me, though they are great cars otherwise) you tend to see a lot of "pizza cutters". These are wheels with large flanges. On Atlas code 55 track they don't work well as they hit the spikes holding the rails in place. The problem isn't the track, but the oversized flanges. Thankfully it's an easy fix for rolling stock. Just swap out the wheelsets for low profiles and you're done. Loco's can be a lot tougher. Since you're buying pretty much all new you shouldn't have a real issue though.

This pic here is one I use to show how to join the code 80 to the code 55. It also allows you to see the two next to each other so you can see the differences.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns Ridge/7-17-0710.jpg

If you want to join the two, just insert a joiner halfway onto the code 80 side and then flatten the end sticking out with needle nose pliers. Then lay the code 55 on top of the flattened part and check that the rail tops are flat. You may have to bend the joiner slightly, but it should be real close right off. Now hold it steady and solder the whole thing together. It's not hard at all. As you can see, I even did mine on a curve using flex track.
 


It looks like the Code 55 has the rails set down into the ties and the Code 80 sits of top ... well something like that :)

I'm getting all new but if I have to switch out some wheels that's just more fun on the to do list. My 36" x 4' section is accessible from 3 sides ... I broke my back at work and since surgery have to be careful about bending.

Code 55 and Peco switches it is .. great info thank you !!
 
Now Atlas code 55 is true code 55 rail, but Peco code 55 is really code 80 thats buried in the ties further. It has a double flange on the rail too. Mixing the two can be done, but it will slow the build time a little. Also, Peco track doesn't have American rails tie spacing. It's built to european spec, and so it visually looks different.

Any reason you don't want to go with Atlas turnouts?

Also, are you planning on only DC power, or are you going DCC? That can effect turnout choice too.
 
I heard that Pecos's were more reliable switches but didn't know about the difference. DCC is what I want to do I am investigating that now. Looks like quite a learning curve.
 
Peco's are very reliable turnouts. A lot of folks prefer them over all others. Myself, I like the Atlas ones. They're inexpensive and readily available, and they're DCC friendly right out of the package. The code 55 Atlas ones seem to be a little better quality then the code 80. I've heard conflicting stories about the Peco's and their DCC friendliness. Most seem to say they're OK though.

One thing you probably need to realize.....pretty much all turnouts will function better with some "tuning". Clearing out flangeways and filing the points almost always helps. There's other things you can do too, but that's the basics.

As for DCC, I think it's easier then DC. The wiring is WAY easier! Also, if you think you want to go DCC, go to it right from the start. It's much easier on the wallet to buy 1 loco and 1 decoder at a time as you build your fleet then it is to have 10 or 20 (or more......many more in some peoples cases) and have to fork over the cash for all those decoders at once to do a changeover, not to mention all the time to install all at once! And don't let someone tell you that you don't need DCC on a small layout either. If you ask me, it's even more valuable on a small layout where trains are in close proximity and blocks would be small. On a small layout you'd constantly be throwing block switches. (Can you tell I'm pro DCC? I changed over a few years ago and I'll never go back......you can't make me!)
 
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DCC it is ! Which DCC unit do you recommend ? Here is my proposed bench layout in tape on the floor area I have. Little one is anxious to start running trains lol's.
 
There ae so many DCC systems out there, and some are more popular in certain areas (read: better local hobby shop support), so it's hard to advise a lot. I started on the Bachmann EZ Command. It's a real no frills one-trick pony, but it does what it says it'll do, and it's cheap! Then a year ago this past Christmas Mrs. Clause got me a Digitrax Super Chief setup (Yup, she's a keeper!). I really like the digitrax setup a lot. I have a friend with the Digitrax Zepher and it's a pretty awesome rig for the money, and it's expandable (Thats big time important!) so that you can add pieces on as your interests grow, all the way up to all of the features I now have with the top of the line.

Other good systems are the MRC one (I looked at that one pretty hard), the NCE setup, and I hear Bachmann's new rig isn't bad.

Talk to a few people, and see if you can try a few out either in the hobby shop , clubs, or on friends layouts.

As far as the benchwork area goes, it looks like it should work real nice. You just have to be able to reach everything (in the corners and such), have a few power outlets, and some decent lighting. You've got the toughest part licked for sure though. You've got the space (all nice and cleaned up and ready) and a cheerleading section!
 
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Thanks a lot for your help ! DCC adds a whole new dimension that I don't want to miss out on. Lot's of research to do ... just adds to the fun :)
 


Just remember, DCC doesn't have to be expensive to gain most of the advantages.

Hey, let me ask a question if I may. How many trains do you think you'll have running at any one time? I ask because some of the cheaper DCC systems out there can only handle a couple of trains with all the bells, whitles, and lights going all at once. A bit more money and you don't have that limitation any more. On the other hand, if you'll only ever really have two at a time going it's really not much of an issue.
 
3 at once would be ideal as the Wife and Daughter are really into this too. When I described how DCC works to the Wife and that all 3 of us could run trains at the same time she really liked that. I looked at one called the Empire Builder I think .. that was affordable. By digitraxx ? .. I'll have to look.

This is a family project and all of us being able to operate locomotives at the same time would be a lot of fun :)
 
Thats one step down from my setup. It's a nice rig. You'll need to buy the extra throttles, but it'll work good.

I can't remember, can that one read and write CV's? Those arer the variables that you can manipulate to control acceleration, braking, and all that stuff. You'll want to be able to do that.....not right off, but you'll want the ability for the future.

Remember, with DCC you can have real "cornfield meets". Gotta be careful. We don't want no "accidents"!
 
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Lol's I can see the crash coming now ! I don't know if that unit can read and write CV's or not I'll find out. Great info thank you :)
 
question on DCC units

I just scored a Bachmann EZ Commander on ebay, with a HO scale 0-6-0 loco, with decoder, for 28 bucks. I know... I know... The Bachmann unit is not usually highly regarded, but since I am thinking 3, maybe 4 trains at the most, it is a great starter unit.
I am planning a standard DC comtroller for accessories so that plays in the Bachmann's favor.
I'll keep everyone posted.
OH, I got the unit and tested it. it works.
and on topic... I am planning on Atlas Code 55 track for the more realistic look of it.


John
 
John,

The Atlas code 55 track is a good choice. Of course I'm prejudiced as I have been using it for a number of years now. I only wish the #10 turnouts had come out sooner. I wish they would add a #7 or #10 double slip switch before I build my main yard.

The Bachmann DCC unit has limitation but it sounds like you got it for the right price. It will get you started and you can upgrade to a better unit later when you need it.

Glenn
 
can I please ask if the Atlas code 55 turnouts need ANY modification at all to work with DCC? What about Peco Code 55 turnouts - do they need ANY modification.

The research i did on the net is quite old - I want to start a new layout and prefer Peco code 55, but don't want to mess around cutting up turnouts if I don't have too. I would have thought that 'these days' all the manufacturers turnouts would work with DCC out of the box?
 
can i please ask if Atlas Code 55 turnouts need ANY modification at all to work with DCC? I have heard that they do - and so do the Peco code 55 turnouts?

I would like to build a new layout using Peco code 55 track and turnouts and use DCC, but don't want to mess around cutting up turnouts to make them work?

My current layout was all kato unitrack and turnouts and was a no brainer - it just all worked - but, doesn't look too realistic.
 
hepkat63,

I have made no modifications to the Atlas code 55 turnouts. I have used Left hand #5, #7, #10, righthand #5, #7, #10, #2.5 Y and #3.5Y. I have not hooked up the metal frogs which would require turnout motors with extra contacts to power them. There are other members on the forum that have operated on my layout with the code 55 track.

Glenn
 


can i please ask if Atlas Code 55 turnouts need ANY modification at all to work with DCC?
My small layout has 11 Atlas Code 55 turnouts which work without any modifications with my DCC system (NCE Power Cab). I have #5, #7, and #3.5 Wye turnouts on my layout.

I have powered the frogs and switch their polarity with my turnout control system. I use the Tam Valley Depot turnout controls.

Bottom line: No modifications whatsoever are required to use Atlas Code 55 turnouts with DCC.

- Jeff
 




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