Atlas standard switches manufacturing defect?


Engauge18

Engauge18

New Member
Hello all,
Has anyone else experienced problems with atlas standard switches?
My layout calls for 21 switches. Four of these things had issues - its a of the plastic part is too high and the train wheels jump at a specific point in the rail.
I tried shaving it down with an exacto knife but that didn't help.
I bought three more and one of them had the same issue.
It's like the plastic part of the switch is too shallow for the wheels of the cars.
Have two more on order. Fingers crossed one of them is OK.
 

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I'm not in N scale but those look bad Maybe they are too shallow but also your wheel flanges might be the problem
Do all your cars do that bump up I've seen some people use a hacksaw blade to make the slot deeper Not sure on n scale
 
i run atlas number 6 custom-line turnouts on my HO layout .. at the beginning i have run a flat file over the top of the frogs to get them level, and then a 0.010 or 0.015 shim in the grooves to get rid of that up and down than they -can- do ... all in all, it was maybe ten or fifteen minutes per turnout ... no bouncies for seven years now .. i also ran a small jumper from the point rails to the stock rails, i didn't want to rely on just contact .. they even work for the larger flanges on older european equipment
 
wvg_ca said:
i run atlas number 6 custom-line turnouts on my HO layout .. at the beginning i have run a flat file over the top of the frogs to get them level, and then a 0.010 or 0.015 shim in the grooves to get rid of that up and down than they -can- do ... all in all, it was maybe ten or fifteen minutes per turnout ... no bouncies for seven years now .. i also ran a small jumper from the point rails to the stock rails, i didn't want to rely on just contact .. they even work for the larger flanges on older european equipment
Click to expand...
Which atlas #6 do you have the older plastic frog or the newer ones with metal Just curious
 
wvg_ca said:
i run atlas number 6 custom-line turnouts on my HO layout .. at the beginning i have run a flat file over the top of the frogs to get them level, and then a 0.010 or 0.015 shim in the grooves to get rid of that up and down than they -can- do ... all in all, it was maybe ten or fifteen minutes per turnout ... no bouncies for seven years now .. i also ran a small jumper from the point rails to the stock rails, i didn't want to rely on just contact .. they even work for the larger flanges on older european equipment
Click to expand...
Like Warren posted, I do the filing and add the shims. I don't use the jumper as the Caboose Industries ground throws that I use, force very good contact. Only some need the filing. I use mostly #6's but have a few #4's as well. I am also HO.
 
Not sure if we're seeing N or HO..But the all plastic frogs in these switches are notorious for causing stall-outs over them, especially with short wheel base locos.
if, IF you could go over to switches (TOs) with all metal frogs (which can be powered, if needed) you will be ensuring a more pleasurable experience in the running of trains..Your stating "My layout calls for 21 switches" tells me that hopefully you haven't purchased them all yet..
I believe, in N scale Atlas code 55 has the NS (nickle silver) rail and frog..In HO it's 'Customline'. There's all metal Peco track as well...
 
Hello all,
Thank you for your insights!
These are n scale atlas remote standard switches.
I purchased all of them already. Pretty far along in the build.
Atlas code 80 uses unpowered frogs.
I tried deepening them with an exacto knife and that didn't work.
So frustrating!
 

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Engauge18 said:
Hello all,
Thank you for your insights!
These are n scale atlas remote standard switches.
I purchased all of them already. Pretty far along in the build.
Atlas code 80 uses unpowered frogs.
I tried deepening them with an exacto knife and that didn't work.
So frustrating!
Click to expand...
Exacto knife not good idea maybe a small file would be better And question I think you said they bump up what do your wheel flanges look like maybe they are hitting the bottom if so either new wheel sets or file the bottom of frog deeper If the wheel tread is hitting then file flat like Warren and Willie say
 
MikeGTW said:
Exacto knife not good idea maybe a small file would be better And question I think you said they bump up what do your wheel flanges look like maybe they are hitting the bottom if so either new wheel sets or file the bottom of frog deeper If the wheel tread is hitting then file flat like Warren and Willie say
Click to expand...
Is there a particular type of file to use? I might need to hit up ebay on that.
The rollng stock is from the 90s, built for code 80 track.

It's weird because the bulk of the switches don't have this issue.

It's a if atlas has a manufacturing problem with the consistency of their finished product. Their error rate is 20%.
 
Engauge18 said:
It's a if atlas has a manufacturing problem with the consistency of their finished product. Their error rate is 20%.
Click to expand...
Atlas has had this problem for over 30 years from my experience. Even when they were manufactured in the USA. It's been documented on every forum that I have been on, including the old Atlas forum, so they probably know about it. I'm closer to 8% that need filing, but it's a tradeoff for the price. It takes me less than 10 minutes each. I put shims in the frogs of all of them made from .015" styrene. With N scale, .010" would probably be better. I have over 115 of their switches, almost all Custom Line.
 
Engauge18 said:
Is there a particular type of file to use? I might need to hit up ebay on that.
The rollng stock is from the 90s, built for code 80 track.

It's weird because the bulk of the switches don't have this issue.

It's a if atlas has a manufacturing problem with the consistency of their finished product. Their error rate is 20%.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to check your wheel gauges. A lot of that older N-scale equipment is notorious for being out of gauge. Usually too narrow, but occasionally too wide. Both locos and rolling stock can be affected. Out of gauge wheels usually aren't much of a problem until you go thru turnouts and crossings - then they really start becoming troublesome. Bachmann stuff is fairly notorious for being out of gauge. But, all brands need to be checked before putting them on your layout. Then, if you continue to have problems, you can at least be confident that it is not your wheel gauges causing or contributing to it.

You really need to get an NMRA Standards Gauge if you don't have one. It's an indefensible tool that all model railroaders should have. ;)
 
Thank you for the info, everyone.
Have ordered an NMRA Standards Gauge - gotta love eBay (now that the small local hobby stores in my area are all closed)
I also ordered an Atlas super saw, and also several new switches to practice on.

Appreciate the advice!
Happy modeling!
 
Thank you.
Have gone through 7! Of these tracks now at $20 per. Two of which were damaged out of the box. All NIB. Good grief.

Every single one of them had this issue. It's one specific spot on the plastic part of the frog. It's just not deep enough.

Attaching a series of stills that show the approach and the bump.

Also including a short video.

I don't have a file that can get into the groove like narrow, but i just got the Atlas super saw. I'm afraid to try it though. Seven of these things! Woof.

MikeGTW said:
Exacto knife not good idea maybe a small file would be better And question I think you said they bump up what do your wheel flanges look like maybe they are hitting the bottom if so either new wheel sets or file the bottom of frog deeper If the wheel tread is hitting then file flat like Warren and Willie say
Click to expand...
 

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Those seem to be lifting a lot It's hard to tell for sure could it be the guard rail slot causing some of it ??

I only have a couple N scale switches and have some HO narrow gauge from minitrains (AHM) and they go thru the atlas switches no bumping

That picture 402 the wheels look to be past the frog but still lifting
 
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