Atlas snap switch


jasonelki

jasonelki

Milwaukee Roader
On the back of the atlas snap switch packaging (#850 or 851), it states if you place a 1/3 18" radius curve on the diverging angle, the resulting angle, starting at the tip of the 1/3 piece should equal an 18" radius.

The attached photo is what happens when I try to overlay an 18" radius curve over the switch, they don't line up.

Can someone try this and post a photo here?

Trying to have some questions answered regarding my layout and this would be a great start.

Thanks for the help!
 
It lines up because you placed the curved section of track over the right part of the switch. The 18" radius is meant to start from the end of the points and then follow the diverging route. In your first picture, you have the 18" curve section sitting over the middle of the switch. It will never line up like that.
 
UP2CSX said:
It lines up because you placed the curved section of track over the right part of the switch. The 18" radius is meant to start from the end of the points and then follow the diverging route. In your first picture, you have the 18" curve section sitting over the middle of the switch. It will never line up like that.
Click to expand...

Jim, sent you a PM.
 
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LOL, You are persistent. :rolleyes:
That original track plan appears to have really bothered you.
If I were you I would rip apart the original layout and make one up from my own design. You would enjoy it more and that little glitch wouldn't be hanging over your head any more. Atlas says their design was correct and it doesn't matter. Make the layout yours and you won't care anymore. And you'll enjoy the hobby alot more. By the way, you never mentioned what engines and/or stock you are running. Or I missed it.
Good Luck
 
hamltnblue said:
LOL, You are persistent. :rolleyes:
That original track plan appears to have really bothered you.
If I were you I would rip apart the original layout and make one up from my own design. You would enjoy it more and that little glitch wouldn't be hanging over your head any more. Atlas says their design was correct and it doesn't matter. Make the layout yours and you won't care anymore. And you'll enjoy the hobby alot more. By the way, you never mentioned what engines and/or stock you are running. Or I missed it.
Good Luck
Click to expand...

Sorry, it is hanging over my head. Must be my personality, but here is my rationale on this issue. I purchased the atlas beginners guide to model railroading, and I seem to have found a flaw in the design (or maybe I'm missing something). I guess I'm thinking this might help someone else down the line should this be fixed. I'm sure there would be people who would purchase the book and all the track, and then try and put it together, and when it doesn't work, they won't(or might) not stick with the hobby any more. Hard to explain I guess!

The layout is all set, just fixed with a lot of flex, starting to glue down roadbed, looking forward to getting some trains up and running.
I am way oversaturated with locos for my small layout, but, I've got a couple Milw Rd's that I really like, an RSC-2 and a H10-44, both protos.
A proto Soo line F7, atlas Rio Grande GP40 and an athearn BN GP40-2. And a bunch of rag tag rolling stock mostly ~15 yrs old.
You didn't miss it.;)
 
Jason, I got your PM. First, your two pictures don't match. Look at where the ends of the curved section are in relation to the throwbar. The second picture shows the track about about 2 or 3 mm in front of the back edge of the throwbar. The first pictures shows the track at or slightly behind the throwbar. This is enough to cause the curve to change by at least a degree at the other end.

I'll be interested to hear what Atlas says since you're sending them the switch. Since these have been in production for over 50 years, I wouldn't be surprised to find there has been some minor manufacturing variations between two switches made decades apart.
 
UP2CSX said:
Jason, I got your PM. First, your two pictures don't match. Look at where the ends of the curved section are in relation to the throwbar. The second picture shows the track about about 2 or 3 mm in front of the back edge of the throwbar. The first pictures shows the track at or slightly behind the throwbar. This is enough to cause the curve to change by at least a degree at the other end.

I'll be interested to hear what Atlas says since you're sending them the switch. Since these have been in production for over 50 years, I wouldn't be surprised to find there has been some minor manufacturing variations between two switches made decades apart.
Click to expand...

Jim, thanks. Sorry, you are right, the photos don't exactly line up, but it is close enough to show the diff in the angle, which I'd guess would be 4 or 5 degrees. Sending out to atlas today. Not a big deal for my layout as mine is set, but for a real beginner this can maybe save someone else trouble down the line. I'll let you know.
Thanks again for the help and at some point I'll move on and ask relevant questions regarding the progress of my layout!!
Jason
 
The 18" radius curve starts 3/4" from the straight end of the switch. A full 30 degree section of 18" radius should match from that point to the end of the 1/3 curved section when attached to the curved end of the switch. This has not changed for years & years. That said, a Snap Switch is a very poor turnout for a model railroad. It is nothing like a real turnout. It is designed for use in a 'sectional' track layout similar to 'timplate' sectional trackage.
I happen to have a pair of Snap Switches that I am going to 'flea market' at a local train show this week-end. With the 1/3 curve, it matches the full curve track very well.

Jim
 
jrbernier said:
The 18" radius curve starts 3/4" from the straight end of the switch. A full 30 degree section of 18" radius should match from that point to the end of the 1/3 curved section when attached to the curved end of the switch. This has not changed for years & years. That said, a Snap Switch is a very poor turnout for a model railroad. It is nothing like a real turnout. It is designed for use in a 'sectional' track layout similar to 'timplate' sectional trackage.
I happen to have a pair of Snap Switches that I am going to 'flea market' at a local train show this week-end. With the 1/3 curve, it matches the full curve track very well.

Jim
Click to expand...

Interesting, not sure what the heck I have then.

You are right, the switches aren't very prototypical, but I'll take it for my first layout.
 
depending on what type of equipment you plan on running, you're going to have nothing but trouble with those snap switches anyway. spend a little extra and upgrade to at least the #6 custom line from atlas
 
The latest on this...

"We received the two switches you sent. We can see why you could have a problem with the new-style switch. We are in the process of deciding how best to address this issue and will let you know just as soon as we find an acceptable solution.

In the mean time, could you please let me know how many left hand and how many right hand Snap Switches would need to be replaced? How many turnouts of each hand (left hand and right hand) are powered and how many are manual?"

We'll see what they say about the "new style switch".
 
jason it's got to be their new switch. I built that layout in about 1975 with the old brass track and it all came out ok. I even used some Tyco track and switches back then. I rebuilt the layout with nickle silver track in the mid 80s and the switches were still the same. Those old snap switches were great at the time, I'm using all #6 and #4 customline switches now with flex track. Good luck

Wayne
 
Wayne,
Good to hear someone else has some issues with the new switches, for the longest time Atlas thought I was nuts til I sent them one of the switches in the mail! That said I haven't heard a word from Atlas since they sent me "replacement" older switches which work fine. They are a little tighter angle-wise than the new ones, but at least they work on their layout plan.
My next layout will not be from a book, then I'll have to "cobble" together turnouts while using flex!
 
A little heads-up on the new customline turnouts. I just started laying track on my new layout. I've got 64 turnouts on this one. I had bought 12 right hand #6 back in the late '80s just before I moved and packed everything away; these were new mark 2, the first ones made with metal frogs. Well in 2003 I got back in the trains and finished off part of the basement for a new layout. I started buying more switches, like I said I've got 64 of them. The first ones were mark 3, theses had black metal frogs and no rivots at the throw bar. The ones made now are mark 4, these have no rivots at all. Now comes the problem, they started knotching the rails where the points lay beside the running rail. On the mark 3 the knotch wasn't too bad and it helped to keep the wheels from picking the point, Atlas always had too thick of a point and it needed work to make them work without derailing everything. The new mark 4 has a knotch that is too deep into the rail, it's almost halfway, now the wheels want to hit this knotch. I found it to be a big problem if there is curved track at the point end of the switch, but not a problem with straight track. I removed the switch and put and older model by the curve and no problems, even at high speeds. I guess I'll just have to watch where I use the new turnouts.

Wayne
 
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