ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I bought 3 of the atlas #66 switches. One works, barely, the other doesn't throw the switch all the way, but that doesn't matter because they don't even try to move the track. Forget the tortoise, I'm running atlas switches. I've got better than 20 hours in fussing with these things. I need a reliable under table switch compatible with my atlas #56 control boxes.
Why do you say forget the Toroise? They will work fine with Atlas switches and are much easier to install and much more reliable. The cost is higher than the Atlas undertable machines but, considering you've already wasted 20 hours on inferior machines, the Tortoise would have been a lot cheaper to begin with.
I brought home the tortoise and I couldn't get it to work. I'm a carpenter and extremely electronically challenged. I got a 4X8 layout with 6 switches, 3 blocks and one transformer. If somebody can either show me or explain to me how I can run the correct sequence of wiring from what I got to the correct 1 thru 8 poles on the tortoise, I just might not drag this damn thing out into the street. By the way, I appreciate the feedback!
e-meyer if you take it to the street, be sure to take pictures and share them with us ;o)
The terminals 1 and 8 are the motor control connections, the other 6 terminals are a DPDT switch for control lights, track power or what ever you need. The motor is powered continuously with 12VDC or less. The Tortoise is controlled with a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch.
Someone else can advise on the Atlas switch compatibility. I believe they are slide switches with a momentary contact. I believe I have read that continous voltage is NOT absolutely necessary - they seem hold position.
Hope these pix and Circuitron instructions help. Option #1 is probably the one you will use.
"1. DC WITH CROSS WIRED DPDT SWITCHES: This system uses the most basic power source, a simple DC supply of not more than 12 volts. Lesser voltages will make the TORTOISE run slower (and quieter). The power supply need not be filtered. Each TORTOISE will draw 15-16 ma. at stall, so 30 switch machines can be powered by a single 9 or 12 volt, 500 ma. wall plug adapter (available from Radio Shack). Any type of DPDT switch (toggle, slide, etc.) can be used to switch the polarity. This system will have two wires running from the control panel to each TORTOISE. See Diagram 1 below."
Im addition to Jon's complete description, the Atlas #56 control boxes are just DPDT switches so they can also be used with the Tortoise. Just wire them as shown in the diagram the same way you'd wire an Atlas motor. Just run a pair of wires from the DC power source to the switch box and then bring back three wires from the Tortoise, one negative, one positive, and one common. The easiest way to do this is use diagram #1, but use a pair of bus wires to deliver current around the layout to the switches and then another bus back to the DPDT switches.
Ok guys, I think I got it, but hear my plan. First I'll take an unused12V transformer and hook up 2 wires to the DC terminals, then to my DPDT switch (I have a diagram for that) then continue the circuit to the #1 and #8 poles on the tortoise. Does that sound correct?
. . . hook up 2 wires to the DC terminals, then to my DPDT switch (I have a diagram for that) then continue the circuit to the #1 and #8 poles on the tortoise.
Remember to "cross wire" the switch so the DC is reversed when you toggle the switch. A jumper on the DPDT from pin 1 to 6 and from 2 to 5. Bring the DC line into pins 4 & 5 : hook up the feed to the Tortoise to pins 1 & 2.
A note on the "unused 12 volt transformer" - if it is a train control transformer then the DC voltage may exceed the 12 V max if the throttle is turned to maximum.
Never mind! You only need the common wire it you are using two DC sources. With one DC source, you should only need to hook up the two wires from pins 1 and 8, as you said, for power, and then use any of the six remaining pins for the two wires needed for the DPDT switch.
Thank you guys for all the help. Just 40 hours later, after much praying and cursing, being laughed at the local hobby store, I got the tortoise to work! Now I got 5 days to rewire and hook up the tortoises, finish the scenery and it will be ready for the tree. Thanks for all the direction and advise but I'm good to go now. Just one more thing.........does anybody know if you can hook up a 3 wire led signal (red, green) to the tortoise? Maybe I should tackle that one next year! God Bless!!!
Yes, you can - and waiting 'til next year might be a good idea )
Is it a LED model railroad signal that has 3 wires or is it a 3 lead LED that you want to make into a signal?
If the latter, here is a schematic for wiring the 3 lead LED for a control panel or track side signal. This shows 2 LEDs that are mounted in a control panel. If you are going trackside simply use one with the resistor and connect directly to the Tortoise pins 2, 3 & 4. Its not a big deal but can get frustrating reversing the leads to be in sync with the Tortoise.
Be sure to post pictures when you can.
Tony's has a pretty good explanation of this at http://www.tonystrains.com/download/df-hare-ht.pdf that goes into a little more detail than Jon's schematic. I'd be happy just to get all the Torti running and save the fancy stuff for later.
You only need the common wire it you are using two DC sources. With one DC source, you should only need to hook up the two wires from pins 1 and 8, as you said, for power, and then use any of the six remaining pins for the two wires needed for the DPDT switch.
