Athern HO scale kits


Airslide

The Flange Squeal
I have purchased several Athern HO scale rolling stock kits. more for the variety of cars, than the price, although the price was a factor.

The problem is almost all of them, when assembled, dont seem to run smothely like some of the ready to run cars I have. I tried swaping out the plastic for metal wheels, but that dosent correct the problem. I have narrowed the problem down to the screw that attaches the truck to the chassis dosent seem to screw in all the way leaving an obvious gap. when they run they wobble and sometimes come uncoupled as a result.

I have tried to lubricate the hole so the screw goes in (i apologize for how that sounds), but that didnt help either. I am reluctant to try drilling a slightly larger hole in the chassis but at this point I am not sure what else to do.

i have come to grips with the fact that ready to run cars with metal wheels are a better bargin in the long run, but i am drawn to the variety of the kits, so i will probably continue to buy them, just not as many.

has anyone else experienced this or am i just assembeling these things wrong? any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Well, 1 suggestion is to weigh them down just a lil bit more and that will resolve the wobble effect you are getting. Add maybe 1-3 oz's depending on length of car, and you'll be surprised at the effect it will have.:cool:
 
Try weighing them down to the NMRA standards. That might help you out too. That way you don't over load your cars so you engines can't pull them.
 
Weight, and try a shorter replacement screw.

I have some Athearn 55' Covered hoppers that wobble even when properly weighted. I'm in the process of "re-bolstering" the cars to provide a slightly larger, and more prototypical shaped (not just a round peg!) bolster.
 
Weight, a shorter screw, and adding spacers between the bolster and the truck are the three ways to fix this problem. Having the car weighted correctly should always be done. Some Athearn bolster holes are shorter than others due to the type of car. You can either use a shorter length 2/56 screw or use felt or plastic spacers between the bolder and the car boddy. this works as long as the car doesn't too high on the truck. If one or two spacers will get the screw thigh enough (but not too tight), that's my prefered solution. Otherwise, ues a 1/8" shorter 2/56 screw. You can buy truck spacers and various length 2/56 screws from any hobby shop. It's a good idea to have a selction of both on hand since you'll always need one when the hobby shop is closed.
 
Hi Airslide: I've noticed the same thing on many freight cars. My solution is to file the boss that the screw goes into, making it shorter. Then you can tighten down the screw to better adjust the trucks. That's what works for me.
 
Ive usually used the provided screw, predrilled the holes with it, the placed the truck on the body and screwed it on. The screw goes in alot easier, and goes all the way in with little resistance. Of course youll need to adjust the screw so the truck turns side to side w/o issue, this should also work for an alternative! Good luck!
 
Something else to check - are the wheels in gauge and is there some "flash" inside the truck that doesn't allow the wheel to fit the truck properly? Are the trucks warped? Just a few other things to check.
 
You need to do two things. I've got plenty of Athearn blue boxes, and you are not alone in your problems.

1) When you assemble the kits, make sure you put in a nylon washer in-between the body of the car and the truck. Also put a washer next to the screw head (before you screw it in). That one can be metal.

2) Add weight to the car to NMRA standards. The weight should be as low as possible. This will stabilize the car.

3) If the above two don't work, change trucks. The Athearn trucks are not that good.
 
I read everyone's comments & I noticed one little detail that was left out.
The reason the screw strips out is; the steel flat weight is just inside the floor of the rolling stock on all boxcars, flatcars, etc. & that's why U need a shrt screw. You can't drill that weight unless you have a carbide drill bit because most of the weights are spring steel. If you manage to drill a hole in the weight, then you are going to have to use a letter drill so U can use a tap to thread the hole.
Just a few things that I've run across over the years. Mistakes, mistakes, mistakes makes you smarter or is that a Smart Arse.

Larry
 



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