Athearn BB detailing project

[K-Pack]

I think I posted my first thread in the wrong forum...this should be the right place. I'm working on detailing an old Athearn BB ATSF GP50, along with a few others. I'm new to this and am looking for any advice and suggestions. Thanks!

This was after I tried cleaning off most of my first attempt at weathering from a a few years ago, along with a few detail parts.

Today I tried making the cables on the cab roof going to the antennas. I used .016" orthodontic wire (going to dental school has it's perks) for the cables, and super glue for the supports. Cheap, I know.

My local hobby shop didn't have cut levers, so I tried my hand at making one from scratch. Again I used .016" ortho wire and tried to bend it using some clumsy tools.

 

[jbaakko]

That's pretty good for scratch built parts!

 

[Alcomotive]

NOT bad! I like it and creative use of materials!

 

[BN8002]

I don't think that looks bad at all..considering what my first hand bent handrails looked like I have no room to comment negatively even if I did see an issue..good job..

 

[K-Pack]

Here's a bit more progress. I picked up a used Athearn BB GP-38 from a local hobby shop for $10 a few weeks ago. It had some decent internals (Mashima motor, new flywheels, nickel-silver wheels), but the guy couldn't figure out where the short was so he sold it to me as a dummy with all parts included.

With a bit of soldering, I was able to get it running but it was pretty rough. After a bit more inspection, it turns out that some of the replacement wheels had fractured the axle gears. So I took all the internals out to be used as spares for the time being and made it a dummy. Should I want to bring this unit back to being powered, it shouldn't be too difficult.

The shell has some really rough places, like the front pilot. I took all the pieces off (should be 3 hoses anyways) and tried to smooth it off as best I could. Most of it will be covered up with a plow in the future. Also notice how the drop-step is off center and the grab irons are a mess as well...lots of work ahead!

Here's some work I did on the cab roof of the 38. Details Associates "Prime" A/C, and Details West Antenna Stands with Details West long "Sinclair" type antenna. Still need to get the short "sinclair". I'll be working on piping in the next few days. If you compare the Details Associates A/C to the Details West A/C that I have on the GP-50, you'll notice a difference in detail. I think I like the Details West better.

I did a bit of work on the GP-50 as well, basically just cosmetic stuff. Prototype photos do not have the ledge underneath the windows as found in the Athearn GP's. A little bit of cutting and sanding fixes that. I also took out the window dividers to make them open. I also sanded down the number boards because they were sticking out a good millimeter. Quick question...how do I go about making good lighted numberboards?

 

[BN8002]

looking good. As far as lighting the numberboards..you would have to leave the clea lenses in there and put bulbs behind them and epoxy tem to the cab roof..and microscale does make decals that are block outline and clear numbers.

 

[quadk]

You're doing some excellent work on detailing them!! You just have to love them cracked axles. I just went through that with some of my Proto stuff. Replaced them all with Athearn gears and all runs good again.

 

[K-Pack]

I've been doing some work on the locos, as well as researching how detailing is supposed to be done. I have to say, after seeing the work that other people are doing with detailing, it's kind of depressing knowing that these aren't going to turn out nearly as nice. But I guess it'll be a learning experience.

I do have a bunch of questions though. I figured you guys on here would have whatever answers I needed.

1.) Is stripping the paint off necessary? I'll be repainting these in the same scheme, just applying new decals.

2.) If I do have to strip the paint, will that damage the details I have put on already?

3.) Where do people get their cut levers from, or do they all hand-make them? My first didn't turn out all that great, although subsequent ones have been much better.

4.) What are some techniques for keeping the cement where you want it? You can probably guess that I've had several episodes of way too much glue.

5.) What do I replace the windows with for Athearn BB? I'm looking for something that fits flush with the outside of the cab. I noticed that A-line had some...anyone have experience with these?

6.) Who makes the eyelets for running plumbing on the cab roof or for holding the cut levers? My attempt at simulating these with superglue may pass from 20 feet, but it really doesn't look that great.

7.) And does anyone know what anticlimber the ATSF GP50's were equipped with? http://shop.cannonandco.net/category.sc;jsessionid=75C0E9459DC0861DD70F5DB73029A04F.qscstrfrnt02?categoryId=18
I'm thinking it's either #2102 or #2103.

Thanks.

 

[BN8002]

I've been doing some work on the locos, as well as researching how detailing is supposed to be done. I have to say, after seeing the work that other people are doing with detailing, it's kind of depressing knowing that these aren't going to turn out nearly as nice. But I guess it'll be a learning experience.

I do have a bunch of questions though. I figured you guys on here would have whatever answers I needed.

1.) Is stripping the paint off necessary? I'll be repainting these in the same scheme, just applying new decals.

2.) If I do have to strip the paint, will that damage the details I have put on already?

4.) What are some techniques for keeping the cement where you want it? You can probably guess that I've had several episodes of way too much glue.



Thanks.

I can answer these. I have stripped athearn units and painted them and I have painted over the factory paint. I honestly havent noticed much of a difference between either technique. The onyl thing you need to watch is if you are painting a unit that has dark colors already and you are adding light colors, you will noticed the other color trying to come through. To avoid this, if I have a dark colored unit, I will hit it with floquils primer jsut to get a somewhat neutral color over the dark stuff before I put on light. I did this with a GP35 that I painted for frisco, It was undec in black and I primered it first.

stripping the paint generally wont damage the details depending on the technique. But 91% isopropyl alcohol is what I use and I have yet to have any problems with it, though I would reccommend stripping it before detailing it, because this will allow you to manhandle the unit pretty rough while you take a toothbrush to scrape the paint off.

and when it comes to cement, I like to get a really small fine point paint brush (I use a 5/0) and that lets me control the amount of glue.

 

[jasonelki]

and when it comes to cement, I like to get a really small fine point paint brush (I use a 5/0) and that lets me control the amount of glue.

What do you use for cement? I've heard about using a fine brush before, but doesn't it dry and harden the brush? Or does it get soft again when you put it back in the cement?
Thanks

 

[BN8002]

What do you use for cement? I've heard about using a fine brush before, but doesn't it dry and harden the brush? Or does it get soft again when you put it back in the cement?
Thanks

I mainly use it with the testors plastic cement, but I have used it with CA on several occasions. With the plastic cement it will harned the brush but becasue the brush is so small I jsut press it to the heel of my hand to break the glue seal loose. With CA, I will put glue on the brush, glue what I need to, and then take a paper towel and pull any extra off the brush that way..if it gets caked up you can use thinner or acetone to break the seal on it..be careful with the acetone though, it will eat certain plastics.

 

[K-Pack]

Thanks for the tips. I'm still up in the air on whether or not I'll be stripping the paint. If I had known to strip the paint before I started, I probably would have done it. I'll try painting over the factory paint, and if I really don't like it then I'll just take everything off.

Here's where I'm at right now on the GP50. I had to order in an anticlimber from Cannon, drilled the holes for the ditch lights and holes in the pilot for the LED wires. I drilled out the ditch lights myself to fit LEDs and I made a hole in the back of one of them. Not sure how I'm going to patch it...any ideas?

I hand made a new cut lever (my old one wasn't very good), added MU receptacles and cable, and repositioned the MU hoses. I filed off the light by the number boards and covered it with a piece of brass I cut to size. I then notched out the front of the nose and added a Details West light. On the roof, the Details West antenna stand for the short Sinclair was too short compared to prototype photos, so I made my own from leftover brass.

 

[RW&C]

For the hole in the ditch light, I'd just cram a bit of squadron putty into the back (after installing the LED) and smooth it with a knife before it dries.

Looks great so far, looking forward to the finished product.

 

[BN8002]

lookin good...

 

[jasonelki]

Thanks for the tips. I'm still up in the air on whether or not I'll be stripping the paint. If I had known to strip the paint before I started, I probably would have done it. I'll try painting over the factory paint, and if I really don't like it then I'll just take everything off.

Here's where I'm at right now on the GP50. I had to order in an anticlimber from Cannon, drilled the holes for the ditch lights and holes in the pilot for the LED wires. I drilled out the ditch lights myself to fit LEDs and I made a hole in the back of one of them. Not sure how I'm going to patch it...any ideas?

I hand made a new cut lever (my old one wasn't very good), added MU receptacles and cable, and repositioned the MU hoses. I filed off the light by the number boards and covered it with a piece of brass I cut to size. I then notched out the front of the nose and added a Details West light. On the roof, the Details West antenna stand for the short Sinclair was too short compared to prototype photos, so I made my own from leftover brass.

You mentioned the MU hoses and cable, what is the cable/purpose? (I assume it is under the anticlimber?) If so I've seen them on locos before but don't have a clue what they do!
Thanks, jas