Apartment help


H

Hanger

New Member
Hey everyone. I am running across a little problem here. I am somewhat new to all of this, and due to a divorce had to move into a condo type apartment. For the time being I have the train on the floor in the dining room, but well, this is getting old real quick.

I am trying to figure out something that I could do, that would be mobile. I have looked into the "free-mo" standards however don't really think that applies to me, as I am not looking to hook my set up to anyone else, I just want something that would be able to be moved out of the door.

Thanks
 
So after more reading and more thinking, here is what I am thinking.

2x4 plywood tops
2x4 frame.
4x4 legs

Do this 4 times and I can pull off either a 4x8. Or a small U shape, or can continue to expand upon it.

If I drill holes in the 2x4 frame, I should be able to bolt it all together for added strength, and everything can be taken apart to fit out of the door.

So my question. On a 2x4 benchwork, is 4x4 legs overkill? That is my only thought about now.

Thanks again.

I guess I should add I have two possible rooms for this. a 12x12 and a 10x12. That would probably help. Thanks
 
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Hollow core doors and / or 2-inch thick extruded foam for subroadbed. You can lay them on folding tables or cheap shelf brackets (if allowed) or even between a couple of file cabinets.

I'd go with a modular shelf layout or see the HOG (Heart of Georgia) layout. You can cut all the benchwork from a single piece of 4X8 foam or plywood.

Yeah, I think 4X4 legs would be WAY overkill.
 
Ok, so after reading about the HOG layout, I have yet another idea.

Banquet table legs attached to 2x4 Plywood. Only problem I have with the HOG layout, is I really enjoy loops, as does my daughter. So I am still searching for something that will work. Sure seems like I am going to be stuck with a 4x8 or so layout to get the loops I want. Although I really like this idea, I can pick up banquet table legs at home depot for around $15. I am still looking for a decent layout with loops that isn't 4x8

Beachbum- From what I read about the hollow core doors the hard part is getting the legs attached to them. I guess when I start looking at the cost of the doors + banquet legs vs plywood + banquet legs that will help me determine which way to go.
 
I vote for hollow core doors (HCD). They are readily available in different widths and at affordable prices (especially if you find a damaged one - they're often discounted heavily!).

The doors are not truly hollow. The interior space is filled with honycombed cardboard strips. However, the edges and ends of each door have solid wood fillers. You can attach folding legs to the wood in the ends of the door or you can glue and screw a 1x4" board anywhere and mount the legs to that. Just remember to screw at the edges of the boards where the screws will catch the wood fillers at the edges of the door.

Want a shorter door section? Cut to desired length, gouge out the cardboard filler and fill the gap with solid wood (maybe the piece removed from the cut off end?). Glue and clamp and it'll be as strong as new.

If you elect to build frames yourself, use clear pine or spruce 1x3" or 1x4" to make a box frame. Depending on length, you made need some intermediate stringers. Glue and screw plywood to the top. Make legs from 1x2" lumber, using two pieces to make an "L" shaped leg. For the most strength, glue and screw the legs to the box frame where there is an angled corner. If you want to disassemble for moving later, just screw the legs to the frame and omit the glue. Not as strong, but should be strong enough. You may want to screw a few long pieces at an angle on one or both sides and ends. This will make the structure very stable.

Hope this info helps.

Darrell, quiet...for now
 
4X8 ovals have their place. If you can access all sides, put a viewblock down the length of the loop and you can have two scenes - one on each side - city and mountains, yard and country, etc. or you can use one side for "hidden" staging.
 
Ok, well I appreciate all the feedback!!

I have been staring at layouts all day, and really running out of steam here, I am going to head out to Home Dept and take a look at these doors and the table legs they sell.

I figure I really need to settle on how I am going to do this, before I find a layout I will be really comfortable with.
 
If you have 4' x 12' of space available you could go with MR's Beer Line. Though this would require a slight investment in back issues of MR ;)
You could also adapt the plan slightly for your own purposes, and could probably squash it to fit in 4' x 8' if you don't have enough space.
 
You can also make a basic small layout with provisions to add on later.
A lot of huge empires started out as smaller pikes that grew!
 
Ok well after shopping. I am thinking 2 doors 36x80 with foldable banquet legs and 1x4s glued and screwed where legs will go.

My next question is. Will that be a good start? Will be like 6ft x 6ft 8in. Could always add a24in door to the end for 8ft.

Thanks
 
And I suppose at least 1/2" stryofoam on top of the doors.

I just want to say thank you very much to all of you that have been helping me today. Unbelievable how quickly I have had all these questions answered today.
 
If you want more loop space, you could use a helix and create a 2 tier (or more) layout. I have been contemplating this idea myself, though I don't know of any examples. It would be a curved riser at one (or both) ends depending on personal preference. Then there is a run up top. The top could be set in place on PVC legs with some inserts on the upper tier to keep it from moving. It is just a thought. I like long main line runs with loops so I can run my passenger sets continuously. It sounds like that might be what you are looking for also.
 
Bought 2 doors today. 36x80, along with some 1x4s, 1.5inch polysterene and the folding table legs. Put some of the 1x4s on the doors tonight, but called it quits. Realized I bought screws that are too big to mount the 1x4s onto the door, and don't want to splinter it.

All glued up though.

I know I should have thought of a layout first, but now I have some options. Even an L shape with a second tier as dpeterson was talking about.

HOWEVER...

Being new to this, I am not going to get over my head and take the enjoyment and fun out of it, while learning. So I stopped for the night to enjoy some relaxation time before work tomorrow.

Was a very productive day of my model railroading hobby!!!!
 
Have you already glued on the foam? If not, get some cheap latex caulk, the type that goes in a gun. That will glue down the foam, the roadbed, and the track, once you make it that far.

I'd encourage you to think about an "L" or "U" shaped design rather than a big rectangle. It will be easier to reach things and you can get more track and scenery into a long, thin layout that a short, fat one. If you want continuous you can add two "blobs" to the ends of a "U" shaped layout so you can have enough room for the curves needed,

At this point, Im not even sure what scale you plan to use. I think it would be a good idea to slow down and decide scale and and waht will fit on the space you have available before you go any further. If you don't get a good trackplan together before you start laying track, you'll end up with a very disappointing layout. Take it from a guy who's been there, what you do in haste now, you'll have a long time to regret later.
 
UP2CSX-

Yes, I got some of the latex caulk, but the foam is not on yet.

After I finish building the tables I am going to seriously look at an L shaped layout to start, see what I can find.

As for scale, I prefer the HO scale, because of my hands and the size of the equipment. IMO N is just too small. I know with my space N would have been ideal, but I am ok with HO knowing that some things will be sacrificed for doing the scale I want.

I appreciate your words, but I am not just jumping into anything, I went to the hobby shop everyday for 2 weeks trying to learn and learn, and make a wise choice here. I do not plan on getting ahead of myself, as this will be a long process, that I plan to enjoy and have fun with. The one thing I hear a lot of, is "oh I wish I did this, or did that" and how much money a learning mistake can cost.

I am sure I will make them, as its a learning curve, but hopefully I can limit mine, based off of other people.

I think after the tables are done, I am just going to make an oval, and let that stew for awhile and see what comes to mind. :)
 
hey hanger

I joined the forum almost a year ago and i really only just picked the rail road(s)
i want to model.I still have'nt thought much about a layout. So your doing better them me!!!
 
Jim(UP2CSX)

After some deliberation, and a visit to my local hobby shop. I was able to get a copy of last years "N" scale master book- lists a lot of stuff. And low and behold- my original hesitation with "N" scale was far from true.

So with that said. I will definitely be going "N" scale going forward. I have 2 separate layouts in mind that I am looking at, and will share when I finally choose one.

This is exciting huh? lol
 
Bryan, this is exactly why I try to tell new folks not to settle on a scale too quickly. I've always been an HO modeler because N scale used to have a poor selection of models and structures and, what they did have, looked terrible. Now, N scale models are almost impossible to tell from HO without a ruler next to the picture. HO still has a bit better selection of most things but N scale is catching up fast. I stayed with HO because the learning curve wasn't as steep as it would have been if I had switched N. Since you're starting out fresh, any scale has about the same learning curve so you might as well go with one that will give you the most for your money and time. N scale and hollow core doors are almost a natural match. I think you'll have fun with it.
 
Since both N and HO each have advantages and disadvantages, I have layouts in both scales. (Not to confuse you...)

Just remember to ask yourself how much any particular layout is going to cost in time, money, and maintenance. You might decide "less is more" and that's why I much prefer a modular (like HC doors) approach - build a manageable bit at a time, add on, rebuild if needed, etc.

Good luck!
 
Another idea is to build a table top out of plywood or hollow core doors and set them on saw horses. You can geta set of cheap plastic sawhorses from any box store for around $20. You can set your layout up where you want and move it easily.
 
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