Any recommendations for a good wood glue

[kgstakes]

bfjou812,

After looking at your pictures and what you have said about the windows. My suggestion is use a hard surface to cut parts out and also use a new sharp #11 blade and take light cuts. Doesn't matter how many times you have to make the cut the main thing is that the part comes out clean. Some of the kits I've seen that I would have to make many light cuts and also for windows and doors - drill a small hole in each corner. It will give you a start and stop and you don't have to worry about cutting the corners.

Main thing is a solid surface. Cutting mat on a hard surface, a piece of glass on you work area makes a good hard surface. But don't try to make the cut all at once, take many cuts. Course, if it does break, make sure you have all the pieces and glue them back together and yes, use glue sparingly.

Also, use a small square to keep things at 90 degrees and walls plum. (I'm sure you're doing this - just a reminder).

Don't get frustrated, take your time and what I've seen is good just a few pointers to help you along.

Hope this helps -- Just suggestions.

 

[bfjou812]

What you described is exactly what I did. Minus the solid surface . As I stated in the previous post I was using some very stiff corrugated board to support the parts. I'm going to change that to a piece of finished plywood. I will try drilling holes around the window and door corners and see how that works. Sounds like a good idea. I guess the main problem was I was trying to cut too much at once. Take lighter cuts . Thanks for your reply.

 

[kgstakes]

Be careful with wood as your base. You can try it but be careful that your knife as it cuts through does not follow the grain of your plywood, it happens.

Using a cutting mat with the plywood would be better.

My first “hard surface” was a cutting board that you can buy most anywhere. But as I used it more and more I was leaving cut marks and it was making it harder to make new cuts.

That’s when I switched to a cutting mat. You can get them pretty cheap. You still need a hard surface but my cutting board I was using I used as my hard surface.

Just do the best you can and you can always fix any mistakes just takes glue and patience.

 

[bfjou812]

I didn't realize that it's been awhile ,so I wanted to update my progress. I had a piece of 3/8" Lexan laying around from a previous project . I've been using that that as the base for my cutting. So far so good. The only downfall is that it leaves light surface cuts on it. I plan to take a da sander with some 220 grit sandpaper to it to get the cuts out to keep it flat and smooth. I've built 3 or 4 kits since the last post. think I'm starting to get back into it but I need some more practice and PATIENCE!! That said here are some of the kits I've done . Just a side note ,these aren't really done yet as I need to add the detail parts to them when I place them on the layout. And again I really appreciate all of your replys and help. It has made getting started over again a lot easier.
The first 5 photos are pat of the trackside details kit. The next 5 are the Puffers Welding kit. This one is the first kit that was laser cut that I have assembled I really like that aspect of it. I will post some more in the next post

 

[bfjou812]

Here are some more of what I've been doing. The Tavern kit is also a laser cut kit. The double stack outhouse was a kit I saw on E-Bay and I just loved it .I think it's hilarious. If yo look closely you can see the word Boss on the bottom door. The top door says Employee. That photo may be in the next post due to limits on photos allowed.

 

[bfjou812]

And here's some more. And here's the fire house. I'm trying to find some early 1900's fire equipment but it is proving difficult. I have found a few firetrucks ,1920's era but the selection is very thin from what I've found. As usual any and all comments are welcome.

 

[John from Indiana]

I have this thing for Campbell Kits...bad thing is that the sugar pine seems to dry out over the years and just looking at a piece of Campbells' siding puts a crack in it. I have Canopy Glue on all wood kits. It might be a little expensive; but it holds well and dries clear

 

[Michael B]

My two cents worth, plus 2 bucks...

Titebond II for me. Elmers white glue for ballast.

Got nothing against Elmer Wood Glue - I just like the increased resistance to water and solvent that Titebond gives.
Besides, we buy Titebond by the gallon around here.

With this Titebond I'm using it seems like it takes a little while for the glue to set up

I do not clamp buildings and such.
I will weight stuff down, like a roof, and also edge glue
boards using masking tape.

I glue one wall to another, then glue two of those together.
I'll use a protractor to align things as I go.
I would never try to glue a stucture together all at once.

To reduce drying time:
1) Make sure to dry fit well = less glue to dry.
2) Remove squeeze our immediatly.
3) Use like contact cement...apply glue, mate surfaces, pull apart,
respread glue with finger, wait ~20 seconds, then assemble.

You can use super glue in little spots on a big joint to help hold it.
Also, when a wood glue joint comes loose later- repair it with
super glue.

 

[zzr1200guy]

Big fan of Titebond products.

 

[shortwrench]

I didn't realize that it's been awhile ,so I wanted to update my progress. I had a piece of 3/8" Lexan laying around from a previous project . I've been using that that as the base for my cutting. So far so good. The only downfall is that it leaves light surface cuts on it. I plan to take a da sander with some 220 grit sandpaper to it to get the cuts out to keep it flat and smooth. I've built 3 or 4 kits since the last post. think I'm starting to get back into it but I need some more practice and PATIENCE!! That said here are some of the kits I've done . Just a side note ,these aren't really done yet as I need to add the detail parts to them when I place them on the layout. And again I really appreciate all of your replys and help. It has made getting started over again a lot easier.
The first 5 photos are pat of the trackside details kit. The next 5 are the Puffers Welding kit. This one is the first kit that was laser cut that I have assembled I really like that aspect of it. I will post some more in the next post

I use a quartz countertop sample 12" x 12" that I found at a tag sale. You might be able to get a discontinued style sample
from a countertop showroom-possibly at a very nominal price.

 

[bfjou812]

Big fan of Titebond products.

I've been using the Titebond along with Elmers white glue and have had good results with both. I did try some of the Starbond "super glue" and I'm not really sure if I like it or not. I'm having a real hard time dispensing it .

 

[bfjou812]

I use a quartz countertop sample 12" x 12" that I found at a tag sale. You might be able to get a discontinued style sample
from a countertop showroom-possibly at a very nominal price.

I started thinking about getting some thick,3/8" or 1/2" glass with some rubber edging around the perimeter to keep everything flat and not have the pieces I'm working on stick to it but I haven't really pursued it.