Another question from beginner


PMW

Well-Known Member
I'm a beginner and my posts on this site have been mostly questions. I simply have more questions than anything else at this point I have another question but I hope it has not gone completely unnoticed that I've also tried to interact here in other ways too. I will continue to try to do that but I'm sure I will have more questions too.

I have a lift out bridge and am looking for quick connect/disconnects for it. The bus line is 14 awg. It is the bus for my reversing section and is probably less than 10' long. I found this https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sea...7lmzwFXlSJVydYXEJqG9ObSNnSr4NspgaAtWsEALw_wcB online but it is 16 awg. I'm guessing that a short section of smaller wire won't be a problem but I'd like to hear from those who know electrics better than I (almost anyone :)).

I will need two of these. One on each end of the lift out section.
 
No, no, no.
Those connectors need two hands to make/break the connection.
Buy or make something like these, gravity makes the connection.
One connector under the liftout, other connector on the layout.
 
Real world bridges rest on what are called 'shoes'. They're metal feet that are meant to slide on plates when the bridge deck expands and contracts due to temperature swings. So, when I have a bridge of any description on my layout, I rest them on bridge shoes. For that purpose, I use 1/2" wood screws. I drive them into the pedestal or abutment on which the bridge will rest, and into the bottom of the bridge itself. I place them so that they sit metal on metal, screw on screw. Or, I'll only put the screws on one item and a metal cabinet L-bracket on the other. The point is, the screws at each corner allow good metal contact for electrical purposes AND they allow the occasional adjustment for height that wooden benchwork sometimes needs. I solder a feeder end to the L-Bracket, or wind a bared end around the post of a screw that keeps the bracket in place, and I wind the bared end of the bridge's feeders around the head of the screw. It works like a charm. To lift out, that's all you do. No connection.
 
Real world bridges rest on what are called 'shoes'. They're metal feet that are meant to slide on plates when the bridge deck expands and contracts due to temperature swings. So, when I have a bridge of any description on my layout, I rest them on bridge shoes. For that purpose, I use 1/2" wood screws. I drive them into the pedestal or abutment on which the bridge will rest, and into the bottom of the bridge itself. I place them so that they sit metal on metal, screw on screw. Or, I'll only put the screws on one item and a metal cabinet L-bracket on the other. The point is, the screws at each corner allow good metal contact for electrical purposes AND they allow the occasional adjustment for height that wooden benchwork sometimes needs. I solder a feeder end to the L-Bracket, or wind a bared end around the post of a screw that keeps the bracket in place, and I wind the bared end of the bridge's feeders around the head of the screw. It works like a charm. To lift out, that's all you do. No connection.

I like it! Especially the part about the screws there to make adjustments. Thanks
 



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