Another Minumum Radius question. N scale

[Bushel86]

So While I am Building my Large N scale switching layout. after starting a new from Ho scale. I decided I want to Build a Test Layout, This layout is to serve 3 Major factors..

1.) It will be my Dcc Programming Track.
2.) Must be used to Break in locomotives,
3.) Layout will be used to test new scenery ideas and techniques before applying to main layout.

While This Layout also has to Be Small, and be able to be stored when Not in use. It will not be part of a bigger layout or be used for anything other than breaking locomotives in and programming them.. What I need to know. Since I do not own or plan to own in the for seeable future Modern Large diesels, is What is the minimum radius I can use for every Large Diesel loco? I do not plan on doing any steam.

I had Plan on using 12" radius as my minimum. If I can sqeeze it down to 11 That be better.

I do not care about how silly the loco looks, Thats not what this Layout is about.
I also Agree Bigger radius is Better, But Again, this is not a show layout or to be used for such.. And so I am not trying to make it as such.

I really Just need those of you who have large modern Diesels to Just help me know what I can get away with without binding the trucks. because I do not own any myself But want to plan ahead for such if I ever get the itch too.

While my main layout is Focused on Lance mindheim point to point Operations, This test layout I want to be able to accomadate for modern diesels if my desire changes for my main layout. therefore I already have something I can use to Break in and Program new locomotives without having to use the main layout.. and If I can fit this layout into a closet when Not in use that will be even better.

Once you can help guide me to a certian radius, I can then choose the size of the layout, and for me the smaller the better, simply for storage reasons.

Also I should mention I do not plan on pulling any cars with these large Locos, If I do make the layout more display like I use small power for it. But to break in a Big Loco its just be light power to break in the motor. So having said that. If I can keep the benchwork at 24x48" for this layout I would prefer that.. other wise if I stay with 12" radius I will have to Go a bit wider and the wider it becomes the harder storage becomes..

Thanks for any and all help.

 

[Rico]

I have some N scale stuff, the mfg's says 9 3/4” minimum but 11” is recommended.
So I looked at Atlas, Intermountain, Scale Trains, Kato etc. websites and they say the same.
I think that’s kind of standard, but most folks here will say and as you mentioned go as big as your space allows.

 

[Bushel86]

I have some N scale stuff, the mfg's says 9 3/4” minimum but 11” is recommended.
So I looked at Atlas, Intermountain, Scale Trains, Kato etc. websites and they say the same.
I think that’s kind of standard, but most folks here will say and as you mentioned go as big as your space allows.

The Problem Is I don't trust the Mfg Stats, I rather have real world knowledge of what people actually have found out for themselves. That's why I don't just go by the MFG. And if I have to do anything to the loco to make it run on that tight of a radius its not really worth it. since my main layout won't have that tight of a radius to begin with. So I just want to be safe with making sure the curve is broad enough for everything But minimum enough to be stored without to much space being used... So Thats why I was thinking 12" radius for the layout. I can make the layout 26" deep and it can still be stored in my hobby rooms closet without issues.

While My main layout will have minimum of 18" radius. Its no problem for anything on the main layout. But this layout will also scratch the itch of continous running without me needing to incorparate it into my main layout.

 

[bnsf971]

12" should be fine for almost any diesel you are considering using. The only ones you may have an issue with are some larger brass diesels.
The only ones I've had an issue with are pulling cars when coupled to the front of Kato PAs and SD40-2s. The engines themselves are okay, they just tend to pull the truck of the first car off the rails on some curves.

 

[Bushel86]

12" should be fine for almost any diesel you are considering using. The only ones you may have an issue with are some larger brass diesels.
The only ones I've had an issue with are pulling cars when coupled to the front of Kato PAs and SD40-2s. The engines themselves are okay, they just tend to pull the truck of the first car off the rails on some curves.

Thanks. I Don't ever plan on doing Brass. at least not in N scale. And I figured That 12" would be good enough for what I was going to use it for. Since they won't be coupled to cars most likely. But again I am not planning on using Anything Big since my plan for my main layout is to model an industrial branch line. But that could change. So i just want to be prepared.

Appreciate it.

 

[Mixed Freight]

I had a friend in our N-scale club that built his first layout using 9-3/4" radius curves. Fine for his 4-axle locos, but he had a few 6-axle locos that wouldn't run on it. Too tight of a radius, of course. He built another small layout later on with 11" radius curves, and had no further problems with 6-axle diesels running on it.

So 12" radius should be just fine. I would also recommend a figure "8" layout for break-in purposes, not only to help exercise the trucks in both directions, but also to diagnose possible electrical connection problems in the loco. For instance, I have seen more than one loco do just fine running laps in a clockwise direction around an oval, but stall out or quit running all together going in a counter-clockwise direction. This problem tends to be much more prevalent when electrical wires are used to connect the truck pickups to the motor leads, and poor solder joints or broken wires end up being the usual culprit.

 

[Bushel86]

I would also recommend a figure "8" layout for break-in purposes, not only to help exercise the trucks in both directions, but also to diagnose possible electrical connection problems in the loco. For instance, I have seen more than one loco do just fine running laps in a clockwise direction around an oval, but stall out or quit running all together going in a counter-clockwise direction. This problem tends to be much more prevalent when electrical wires are used to connect the truck pickups to the motor leads, and poor solder joints or broken wires end up being the usual culprit.

Thanks, I agree, while a figure 8 would help in that area, But I am ok picking up and flipping the loco in the other direction after a bit too. But I am glad you mentioned it, Gives me something to work out a bit more. Because I have had in the past locos that had that Problem but that was years ago. So gives me something to think about at least.

 

[inkaneer]

The Problem Is I don't trust the Mfg Stats, I rather have real world knowledge of what people actually have found out for themselves. That's why I don't just go by the MFG. And if I have to do anything to the loco to make it run on that tight of a radius its not really worth it. since my main layout won't have that tight of a radius to begin with. So I just want to be safe with making sure the curve is broad enough for everything But minimum enough to be stored without to much space being used... So Thats why I was thinking 12" radius for the layout. I can make the layout 26" deep and it can still be stored in my hobby rooms closet without issues.

While My main layout will have minimum of 18" radius. Its no problem for anything on the main layout. But this layout will also scratch the itch of continous running without me needing to incorparate it into my main layout.

You might want to try the Kato Unitrack. That is what I use for the very same

So While I am Building my Large N scale switching layout. after starting a new from Ho scale. I decided I want to Build a Test Layout, This layout is to serve 3 Major factors..

1.) It will be my Dcc Programming Track.
2.) Must be used to Break in locomotives,
3.) Layout will be used to test new scenery ideas and techniques before applying to main layout.

While This Layout also has to Be Small, and be able to be stored when Not in use. It will not be part of a bigger layout or be used for anything other than breaking locomotives in and programming them.. What I need to know. Since I do not own or plan to own in the for seeable future Modern Large diesels, is What is the minimum radius I can use for every Large Diesel loco? I do not plan on doing any steam.

I had Plan on using 12" radius as my minimum. If I can sqeeze it down to 11 That be better.

I do not care about how silly the loco looks, Thats not what this Layout is about.
I also Agree Bigger radius is Better, But Again, this is not a show layout or to be used for such.. And so I am not trying to make it as such.

I really Just need those of you who have large modern Diesels to Just help me know what I can get away with without binding the trucks. because I do not own any myself But want to plan ahead for such if I ever get the itch too.

While my main layout is Focused on Lance mindheim point to point Operations, This test layout I want to be able to accomadate for modern diesels if my desire changes for my main layout. therefore I already have something I can use to Break in and Program new locomotives without having to use the main layout.. and If I can fit this layout into a closet when Not in use that will be even better.

Once you can help guide me to a certian radius, I can then choose the size of the layout, and for me the smaller the better, simply for storage reasons.

Also I should mention I do not plan on pulling any cars with these large Locos, If I do make the layout more display like I use small power for it. But to break in a Big Loco its just be light power to break in the motor. So having said that. If I can keep the benchwork at 24x48" for this layout I would prefer that.. other wise if I stay with 12" radius I will have to Go a bit wider and the wider it becomes the harder storage becomes..

Thanks for any and all help.

I got just the thing for you. Use Kato Unitrack which is what I use for the very same things that you list. At Least the first two. It is readily available, easy to set up and take down and comes in a variety of curve radii. As far as scenery use a piece of expanded Styrofoam to practice on. There are lots of You Tube videos on how to do scenery and there is no one best way. Pick the one you are comfortable with.