Airbrushing rookie!
- Thread starter CbarM
- Start date
GN.2-6-8-0
Member
Alright I'm assuming you haven't used an air brush before,would that be correct? If so in order to just get the feel of using one just use water to start.
Use a card board box to test it ,checking the spray pressure and the spray patterns.try making thin med.and broad lines.
Get used to the trigger action,perticularly if it's a double action.
Read the instructions throughly to familiarize yourself with it.
I'm sure you be getting plenty of advise here on further usage of a great new tool.
Use a card board box to test it ,checking the spray pressure and the spray patterns.try making thin med.and broad lines.
Get used to the trigger action,perticularly if it's a double action.
Read the instructions throughly to familiarize yourself with it.
I'm sure you be getting plenty of advise here on further usage of a great new tool.
gator do 65
Member
you can use food coloring straight or mixed with water (I prefer straight as a few drops go along way) on paper towels clipped on a clip board,you can practice fine line control by tracing the embossed patterns on the paper towel. Heres a link that should help https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home
Secondhandmodeler
All new now!
I'm a rookie at it too, but generally speaking, you want the paint/thinner mixture to be the consistency of milk. I use only acrylics with mine, but the results have been satisfactory. Good luck!
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
Does the paint stick any better using the airbrush as opposed to a regular brush?
I have a couple plastic products that simply would not take paint well. Even primer out of a rattle can did not stick well. And repeated tries I finally got some paint on there but ended up with some buildup which covered some of the details.
Here is the product:
I have a couple plastic products that simply would not take paint well. Even primer out of a rattle can did not stick well. And repeated tries I finally got some paint on there but ended up with some buildup which covered some of the details.
Here is the product:
Genetk44
Active Member
Those are not plastic....they are resin...I've never used resin parts so have no advice beyond using Google to search for " painting resin models"
here is one link. http://www.fullcirclehobbies.com/blogs/news/5510002-preparing-resin-parts-for-painting
plenty more using the search term above.
Genetk44
Active Member
And another link...... http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/extraboard/cm_howto_paintingresin.php
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
THANKS Gentek
For advice they said use primer but the primer did not help that much. Is there an airbrush primer?
I think they were such a cheap and inferior product I should have stuck with name brand stuff which I have had no problem with. I am going to end up making a junk pile out of this stuff.
For advice they said use primer but the primer did not help that much. Is there an airbrush primer?
I think they were such a cheap and inferior product I should have stuck with name brand stuff which I have had no problem with. I am going to end up making a junk pile out of this stuff.
Genetk44
Active Member
Well even before using primer you have to give the resin parts a very good cleaning in warm-water and dish soap..... Joy is my prefered brand because it really cuts through oils. Then prime.... My go-to primer is Testors Dull-Cote because it dries with a bit of tooth.... Unfortunately I dont know how it reacts to resin.
You must wash resin components to get the the mold release agent off of them. I paint resin parts with an airbrush all the time. I always wash the parts first.
On thinning, thin the paint to the consistency of skim milk. It should leave a film in the inside of the jar like milk does in an empty glass. This works no matter what kind of paint you are using. If you are a rookie, stick with paints that are formulated for spraying. That means stay away from the cheap buck a bottle craft paints from Wal-Mart. Those are for brushing. An accomplished painter can make them work in an airbrush, but until you learn the tool, that's not you.
On thinning, thin the paint to the consistency of skim milk. It should leave a film in the inside of the jar like milk does in an empty glass. This works no matter what kind of paint you are using. If you are a rookie, stick with paints that are formulated for spraying. That means stay away from the cheap buck a bottle craft paints from Wal-Mart. Those are for brushing. An accomplished painter can make them work in an airbrush, but until you learn the tool, that's not you.
Red Oak & Western
Active Member
As to thinning, go to the manufacturer's website and see what they recommend for thinning. There is no general rule, since every brand of paint uses different polymers, binders, solvents and pigment ratios. Also, different colors have different pigment weights and grinds so they need different thinning ratios. My favorite paint is almost water thin straight out of the bottle and still requires thinning (note: they are solvent based, not acrylic). Some colors thin at 1:1, but some require 1:2 (paint:solvent) to airbrush well.
And be aware there are many, many thinner formulas for both solvent based and "water based" paints. My favorite acrylic thinner is 60% distilled water, 39.9% denatured alcohol, and 0.1% surfactant. I use an agricultural surfactant, because it is non-foaming; other just use liquid dish soap.
And, as others have said -- practice, practice, practice! I actually enjoy the practice time. I do it before every "real" paint session if I have been painting for a couple of months. I agree with the food color in water as a practice medium. Try practicing with red and blue, yellow is tough to see, green is "graduate level" practice.
Its also a good idea to clean all parts (except wood and plaster) before painting them. With resin castings, its an absolute requirement. With plastics, it can't hurt, and you never know how much mold release is left on the parts when you receive then. I use Dawn, but I'm sure any soap will work. Clean in warm soapy water using a tooth brush to scrub the parts. Rinse them in clean warm water, and wear gloves to remove the parts from the water. I prefer nitrile -- $6.50 per 100 on sale at Harbor Freight. Latex will do, but avoid the "rubber kitchen" gloves. And leave the parts on the sprues, it makes them easier to handle.
As to the use of primers - I generally don't. The only time I will is if I need an intermediate color coat: Black plastic that is going to end up white or yellow. That said, I do use primers, but not as primers. I find red oxide primer a great color for brick, and gray primer for concrete or concrete block. It is treated as just another color in the paint arsenal. I get mine at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts.
As Alan said, stay with model paints for now. The Plaid/Apple/Folk Art paints, while quality paints, are intended for the craft brushing crowd. I can air brush them, but I got my first air brush over 35 years ago. And as I said in another air brushing thread, get me started and I'll talk your ear off.
And be aware there are many, many thinner formulas for both solvent based and "water based" paints. My favorite acrylic thinner is 60% distilled water, 39.9% denatured alcohol, and 0.1% surfactant. I use an agricultural surfactant, because it is non-foaming; other just use liquid dish soap.
And, as others have said -- practice, practice, practice! I actually enjoy the practice time. I do it before every "real" paint session if I have been painting for a couple of months. I agree with the food color in water as a practice medium. Try practicing with red and blue, yellow is tough to see, green is "graduate level" practice.
Its also a good idea to clean all parts (except wood and plaster) before painting them. With resin castings, its an absolute requirement. With plastics, it can't hurt, and you never know how much mold release is left on the parts when you receive then. I use Dawn, but I'm sure any soap will work. Clean in warm soapy water using a tooth brush to scrub the parts. Rinse them in clean warm water, and wear gloves to remove the parts from the water. I prefer nitrile -- $6.50 per 100 on sale at Harbor Freight. Latex will do, but avoid the "rubber kitchen" gloves. And leave the parts on the sprues, it makes them easier to handle.
As to the use of primers - I generally don't. The only time I will is if I need an intermediate color coat: Black plastic that is going to end up white or yellow. That said, I do use primers, but not as primers. I find red oxide primer a great color for brick, and gray primer for concrete or concrete block. It is treated as just another color in the paint arsenal. I get mine at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts.
As Alan said, stay with model paints for now. The Plaid/Apple/Folk Art paints, while quality paints, are intended for the craft brushing crowd. I can air brush them, but I got my first air brush over 35 years ago. And as I said in another air brushing thread, get me started and I'll talk your ear off.
Red Oak & Western
Active Member
Oh, and as I think about it, once you actually start painting for real -- keep a diary. Keep tract of the brand of paint you used, the type of thinner, and the ration. Include the air pressure you used and the needle/setting. A spiral notebook works fine. You'll really thank yourself when you go to repeat an effect and say to yourself "How did I do that?"
PS: that Iwata you've got is a really nice brush. Good decision.
PS: that Iwata you've got is a really nice brush. Good decision.
CbarM
HO all the way!
Thank you all for the great replies!! I bought some model paint today and some thinner, the brand is Tamiya. Has anyone ever heard of this brand? Is it worth fooling around with or trying to actually do a nice paint job with or should I take it all back before I open any of em?
CbarM
HO all the way!
The first thing I want to paint is 4 sets of the A-line kit C that Ive had for a while...all undecorated. Ive read that TTX yellow is basically a mustard yellow, but does anyone know for sure? I got some yellow, brown and orange paint so I can try mixing it a lil to get a more accurate color...
