Add realism to Tyco
- Thread starter Hutch
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Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I still learning myself, so I'm no help.
kjd
Go make something!
How I do it:
1) find a photo of what I want
2)compare model to photo
3)change the parts that are different and bother me
Story time: I'm in this spot at the moment. I made model of MRL 290, not a locomotive available, it must be kitbashed. I model 1996(ish) so modeled it without ditchlights, with a beacon, without the Flying W logo, with low brake cylinder trucks, all the details I could see in photos. The horn, though, is a mishmash of parts. It is a Nathan P5 low profile manifold but all the bells are in the wrong places or just wrong for the horn. I found a photo of the horn and copied it with the bells in order 1,2,3,4,4A. When I went to place it, I looked at an earlier photo and realized it didn't wear the horn I made until 2004. In 1996, it had what looks to be some of the same pieces but in a different order, probably 5,2,1,4,5. I'm going to remake it and if anyone has a model of 290 that is supposed to be after 2004, hit me up for a horn.
I just reread your post and the comment about picking up a brush makes me think maybe you are asking about weathering. There are many great tutorials on YouTube, KPack is a friend of mine and I can't distinguish between photos of his models and prototype photos. He only has a couple weathering videos but there are lots and don't overlook military modelers too. Some of them are next level. I mostly use a handful of craft acrylic colors I got at JoAnns, a brand called "Top Notch" in matte. I also use chalk and an airbrush but have done some cars completely with the acrylics.
1) find a photo of what I want
2)compare model to photo
3)change the parts that are different and bother me
Story time: I'm in this spot at the moment. I made model of MRL 290, not a locomotive available, it must be kitbashed. I model 1996(ish) so modeled it without ditchlights, with a beacon, without the Flying W logo, with low brake cylinder trucks, all the details I could see in photos. The horn, though, is a mishmash of parts. It is a Nathan P5 low profile manifold but all the bells are in the wrong places or just wrong for the horn. I found a photo of the horn and copied it with the bells in order 1,2,3,4,4A. When I went to place it, I looked at an earlier photo and realized it didn't wear the horn I made until 2004. In 1996, it had what looks to be some of the same pieces but in a different order, probably 5,2,1,4,5. I'm going to remake it and if anyone has a model of 290 that is supposed to be after 2004, hit me up for a horn.
I just reread your post and the comment about picking up a brush makes me think maybe you are asking about weathering. There are many great tutorials on YouTube, KPack is a friend of mine and I can't distinguish between photos of his models and prototype photos. He only has a couple weathering videos but there are lots and don't overlook military modelers too. Some of them are next level. I mostly use a handful of craft acrylic colors I got at JoAnns, a brand called "Top Notch" in matte. I also use chalk and an airbrush but have done some cars completely with the acrylics.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
My best suggestion is to get a couple of very cheap old cars, broken ones even, doesn't matter to practice on, then if you stuff up, you haven’t ruined a good motor, as kjd said, YT is your friend, also check out this thread on the forum.
Weathering Rolling Stock and other things, a Continous thread
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Im
Being a brit, I'm terrible at identifying US loco's, so start a new thread and include a couple of good fotos, with a title, something like "Help identifying this Tyco loco" anything along those lines, we've a few members who seem to me to have the entire encyclopedia of US locomotives in their heads.
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kjd
Go make something!
Look up Union Pacific SD24.
Keep in mind prototype fidelity was not a big priority for some “entry level” models. Some can be made into realistic representations but for others there are better starting points.
Long ago, Atlas made a similar model but the trucks had wrong axle spacing that would be hard to correct.
I am of the opinion a good weathering job can add more realism than getting every detail correct. Everyone knows what dirt looks like but there are far fewer that know in what order the bells were on MRL 290’s horn in 1996.
Keep in mind prototype fidelity was not a big priority for some “entry level” models. Some can be made into realistic representations but for others there are better starting points.
Long ago, Atlas made a similar model but the trucks had wrong axle spacing that would be hard to correct.
I am of the opinion a good weathering job can add more realism than getting every detail correct. Everyone knows what dirt looks like but there are far fewer that know in what order the bells were on MRL 290’s horn in 1996.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
This might what you are looking for, also some weathering around air intakes/breathers is always appropriate
decal a number on it. Google is my best friend! (google it)
Plastic handrails are usually too thick, you could make some with the right size wire or adapt some junk ones. Ebay is a good place to look for junk locos which may have some good parts that can be adapted.
decal a number on it. Google is my best friend! (google it)
Plastic handrails are usually too thick, you could make some with the right size wire or adapt some junk ones. Ebay is a good place to look for junk locos which may have some good parts that can be adapted.
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
Plus wipers, new horns and take the seam out of the compressed air tanks..
Hutch
Well-Known Member
That's really close to mine, thank you!
