santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
Replace them with metal wheels corresponding to the size originally on the car.I want to replace wheels with 36” metal,
Replace them with metal wheels corresponding to the size originally on the car.I want to replace wheels with 36” metal,
No set rule, but usually we try to match the wheel size to the prototype.Is there a set rule (ie car type, length) that determines wheel size? Or do I need to try and look up the manufactured car to find its original specs? Been looking up more info, seems I also need to be sure to get the right axle length…. Be nice if I knew what the hell I was doing lol
Ha! that is a silly reprimand. Many people only frequent ONE forum, so if you didn't post multiple a subset would never see it.I was reprimanding for posting the same subject/questions on multiple forums, but I found different informative replies on different forums.
I do use it a lot,...mostly all code 100 because that is what I already had collected up.
I follow what I believe are sort of standard practices for laying it.
Straight segments of the 3 foot lengths are sort of straight forward,...no need to trim either rail unless the 3 foot length is too long.
On curves I try to solder the rail joiners together where those joints are going to end up within the curve, then trim the ends to fit with the adjoining rails.
I solder most of my joints as I am laying track onto painted (sealed) plywood 3/4 thick. I don't foresee my track expanding/contracting differently than that plywood base.
I also glue my track down with this DAP AlexPlus caulk,...cheap, doesn't harden in the tube for a very long time, and is easily loosened up by sliding a good wide blade putty knife (cheap at harbor freight) under it.
Well yeah. That makes sense, that is written in the agreement when you sign up for an ID over there.Model Railroader Mag forum does NOT like it, and they don't even allow one to make a reference to another forum,....Got reprimanded for that !!
So whats so wrong with sharing knowledge throughout the model rr world as opposed to trying to be monolithic about it?Well yeah. That makes sense, that is written in the agreement when you sign up for an ID over there.
You can share knowledge without talking about other sites, or quoting them. In the past I've posted the same information on multiple sites, but I didn't quote it. I re-wrote it each time, or as they say it in school, I use my own words.So whats so wrong with sharing knowledge throughout the model rr world as opposed to trying to be monolithic about it?
I use track nails 100% for all track, whether straight or curved. No need to weight it down and no sliding out of alignment. After weathering the ties, they are really hard to see. I also use cork roadbed over 1/2" plywood, so I am really "old school"!!!I was going to follow his “standard practice” idea for flex track but also going to use nails in the turns, I have heard it will try to contort itself back to straight…. Sound reasonable?
Another old foggey...like me! I bet you even make scenery using plaster over screen wire! I do see you ballast your track, something I haven't gotten around to on four layouts over the last 64 years. One of these days.... Anybody out there got a Round Tuit? BTW, what's your technique for ballasting flex track and snaptrack?I use track nails 100% for all track, whether straight or curved. No need to weight it down and no sliding out of alignment. After weathering the ties, they are really hard to see. I also use cork roadbed over 1/2" plywood, so I am really "old school"!!!View attachment 134389
Same technique for either. First, a close look at that picture shows that I use HO scale roadbed for main lines, and N scale roadbed for passing sidings to obtain different elevations. I also use light gray Woodland Scenics ballast for the mains and gray blend for the passing sidings. Industry spurs, not pictured, get gray. I always use a rattle can of Model Masters Light Earth to paint all track and ties before ballasting starts. I return with various shades of black, brown and gray to highlight random individual ties before the next step.BTW, what's your technique for ballasting flex track and snaptrack?