A return to the fun of HO railroading


Is there a set rule (ie car type, length) that determines wheel size? Or do I need to try and look up the manufactured car to find its original specs? Been looking up more info, seems I also need to be sure to get the right axle length…. Be nice if I knew what the hell I was doing lol
 
Is there a set rule (ie car type, length) that determines wheel size? Or do I need to try and look up the manufactured car to find its original specs? Been looking up more info, seems I also need to be sure to get the right axle length…. Be nice if I knew what the hell I was doing lol
No set rule, but usually we try to match the wheel size to the prototype.
Standard Freight up to 70 tons - 33", 100 ton or greater - 36"
Standard Passenger - 36"
Modern Autoracks - 28"
As I understand it modern multi-unit container (well) cars and articulated are 33" on the end and 38" on the center wheels.
Modern tank cars and any greater than 120 ton cars are moving to 38" wheels.

on a modeling note If you decide to start looking at passenger cars ...
Having said that Rivarossi / AHM / IHC passenger cars used small 30"(?) wheels to clear the brake shoes. Moving them up to the proper prototype 36" wheels involves having the car suddenly 3 scale inches too high and the brake shoes have to be modified or removed so they don't rub. Also note the center wheel on 6 axle trucks is set higher and sloppier so it could float in 18" radius curves.
 
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There is lot to learn, and I am still doing after almost 20 years of re-entering the hobby.

The internet forums help a lot. Initially i was not an computer/internet guy, and tried to save LOTS of articles from older magazines. I still have a lot of that material,...that I wonder if I ever will make use of it, as the internet is faster.

I was reprimanding for posting the same subject/questions on multiple forums, but I found different informative replies on different forums.
 
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I was reprimanding for posting the same subject/questions on multiple forums, but I found different informative replies on different forums.
Ha! that is a silly reprimand. Many people only frequent ONE forum, so if you didn't post multiple a subset would never see it.
 
Au contraire, There are few others that visit across multiple forums,...and then there are those 'forum police' that find a need to reprimand others for those 'grave offenses'....ha...ha (they don't have better things to do with their time ?)

Model Railroader Mag forum does NOT like it, and they don't even allow one to make a reference to another forum,....Got reprimanded for that !!
 
I just recently had a private message asking about the use of flex track. I hope I answered the fellows rather broad inquiry well enough?
I thought thatTopherisme might find it interesting also

I do use it a lot,...mostly all code 100 because that is what I already had collected up.
I follow what I believe are sort of standard practices for laying it.

Straight segments of the 3 foot lengths are sort of straight forward,...no need to trim either rail unless the 3 foot length is too long.

On curves I try to solder the rail joiners together where those joints are going to end up within the curve, then trim the ends to fit with the adjoining rails.

I solder most of my joints as I am laying track onto painted (sealed) plywood 3/4 thick. I don't foresee my track expanding/contracting differently than that plywood base.

I also glue my track down with this DAP AlexPlus caulk,...cheap, doesn't harden in the tube for a very long time, and is easily loosened up by sliding a good wide blade putty knife (cheap at harbor freight) under it.
 
There is a difference in posting a similar thread and actually quoting exact words from another place.

All I meant was if you only post something on the other side of the tracks, generally speaking folks like me will never see it.

Model Railroader Mag forum does NOT like it, and they don't even allow one to make a reference to another forum,....Got reprimanded for that !!
Well yeah. That makes sense, that is written in the agreement when you sign up for an ID over there.
 
So whats so wrong with sharing knowledge throughout the model rr world as opposed to trying to be monolithic about it?
You can share knowledge without talking about other sites, or quoting them. In the past I've posted the same information on multiple sites, but I didn't quote it. I re-wrote it each time, or as they say it in school, I use my own words.

But you also do realize that people make money off these sites. If you are on this site, clicking the links over here, you are not on that different site clicking its links. So of course they don't want one sending people to the competition.
 
I often find interesting postings on 'competing' forum sites. And I don't have the time to rewrite those postings in my own manner, plus doing so might alter the originator's posting.

One of the reasons I like to it as a quote from another forum, is to give create to the originator.
 
I was going to follow his “standard practice” idea for flex track but also going to use nails in the turns, I have heard it will try to contort itself back to straight…. Sound reasonable?
 
I was going to follow his “standard practice” idea for flex track but also going to use nails in the turns, I have heard it will try to contort itself back to straight…. Sound reasonable?
I use track nails 100% for all track, whether straight or curved. No need to weight it down and no sliding out of alignment. After weathering the ties, they are really hard to see. I also use cork roadbed over 1/2" plywood, so I am really "old school"!!!
IMG_6245 (2).JPG
 
I use track nails 100% for all track, whether straight or curved. No need to weight it down and no sliding out of alignment. After weathering the ties, they are really hard to see. I also use cork roadbed over 1/2" plywood, so I am really "old school"!!!View attachment 134389
Another old foggey...like me! I bet you even make scenery using plaster over screen wire! I do see you ballast your track, something I haven't gotten around to on four layouts over the last 64 years. One of these days.... Anybody out there got a Round Tuit? ;) BTW, what's your technique for ballasting flex track and snaptrack?
 
BTW, what's your technique for ballasting flex track and snaptrack?
Same technique for either. First, a close look at that picture shows that I use HO scale roadbed for main lines, and N scale roadbed for passing sidings to obtain different elevations. I also use light gray Woodland Scenics ballast for the mains and gray blend for the passing sidings. Industry spurs, not pictured, get gray. I always use a rattle can of Model Masters Light Earth to paint all track and ties before ballasting starts. I return with various shades of black, brown and gray to highlight random individual ties before the next step.
I start with applying the ballast using one of those condiment containers from food establishments, as it's easier than pouring out of the original containers. I work on about 18" - 20" at a time. I pour it onto the places that I want it and then use an old 3/4" paintbrush to shape it into the proper contour. I then use a spray bottle containing a 60:40 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol and thoroughly soak it. Then I dribble on a mixture of 60% water and 40% Elmer's White Glue with a few drops of Dawn liquid dish-washing detergent added. I use an old Elmer's bottle to mix it in as the nozzle is just right and is also adjustable for flow. Use Elmer's White Glue, not Elmer's School Glue as the school glue has too much water and other filler in it. Again, soak it when applying the glue. I then use a damp paper towel to wipe the railheads in case I got any on them, usually not because the nozzle is really good at directing the flow. I'll use the same paper towel to dab the ties anywhere that I think that I have excess ballast on top. I've examined the prototype and there is always some loose ballast on top of the ties, but not much. If the glue mixture doesn't readily flow into the ballast, then you haven't pre-soaked it with the water/IPA mixture enough. You can always spray again after applying the glue. Using this method, I have never had "floating ballast", which I have read others having problems with when using Woodland Scenics "walnut shells".
Any further questions, ask away. Hope that this helps.
 



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