A Real Puzzler

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airport1246

Station Agent
The other day, I went to a train show, and bought 3 Amtrak commuter-style bi-level (gallery) passenger cars. I got home, and ran them, only to find out that they frequently de-rail. :eek: My suspicion was the steep grade up to a bridge, so I removed it, but still no better. They most frequently de-rail along my 18'' radius curves, and so I believe it has to do with the trucks not having enough side-to-side motion. What should I do? :confused: (Also, they are the same length as some Santa Fe cars I have, and those work flawlessly).
 
I don't know of any bi-level Amtrak cars that could handle an 18 inch curve. What brand are they? If you really want to run passenger operations, you may want to re-think those curves.
 
If they are Walthers cars you may want to check the box, Walthers recommends 24" minimum radius on full length 85 ft passenger cars. Surgery may be required to make them work on 18" radius curves. Got a curve softener in your toolbox? :D
 


Both the Walthers, and Kato versions are only made for 24" & 22" (respectively) or larger.
 
I'm not sure what brand they are- I bought them at a show, and they didn't have a box. Is there any way to modify the trucks so they will run? I have some single level ones that are the same length and they run just fine.
 
The bilevel coaches have a different center of gravity, being so much taller. It's this higher center of gravity that tends to pull the cars off the track on sharp radius curves. Changing trucks will make no difference. Your best hope it to add more weight as low as possible in the cars. I'd start with one ounce and work my way up. You can use lead fishing weights as temporary test weights until you find the right weight that stops the derailing.
 
Jim has a good suggestion with the weight. But I would also check the wheel gauge with a NMRA gauge. If the wheel gauge is off, all the weight in the world ain't gonna help.

If you don't have one your LHS, if he handles trains, should have one. If not they can be ordered from the NMRA at
http://www.nmra.org
 
Do the cars derail if run around the 18" curves each separately? If not, then add one car, and try them. I'll bet the corner of the cars are touching on the inside of the curves. If that is the case, you will need to use longer coupler shanks to get more spacing between the cars. If there are diaphragms on the ends, they could be rubbing. You may need to shorten them. That will leave a gap when on the straight track, but it can't be helped. Also, with the couplers, you may need to not only use ones with longer shanks (Kaydee sells some), but modify the pockets to permit wider swing of the coupler. If you can't conveniently do that, you might want to try using a drawbar between the cars. That will mean you can't uncouple them, but chances are you will run them altogether anyway.

You may also need to check the swing of the trucks. It is possible that the sideframes will need to be modified, especially on the truck ends. As a final possibility, you may need to cut clearances in the skirts where the trucks hit them.

Because my father and I used to ride the same type of cars on the C&NW from Chicago to the suburbs, I bought two of the Kato cars myself (in C&NW livery). While I was able to work these on 18" radius, with modifications described (except for NOT having to cut away the side skirts), I found it the better part of valor to increase the radius of curvature on my new layout (in progress after 20 years hiatus). But I didn't have room to use 22-inch curves, so I compromised by using Shinohara 20-in. radius, rather than Atlas 18 or 22-in. Most folks don't realize the availability of other than Atlas 18 and 22" curved snap track, but Shinohara has a whole bunch of different curves up to and including 30-inch! You can get them from Walthers. They aren't cheap, but they'll do the job for you.

Green board, Pard!
 




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