30 000 Gallon Tank Car - H0 (1:87) STL files

[DK.Trains]

Greetings to all train modelers. My name is Dmytro, I'm from Ukraine.
I want to present you my first complete 3D project of a 30 000 Gallon Tank Car in H0 (1:87) scale designed in SolidWorks 3D editor for creating a real model for your railroad layout.
It is a 3D model ready for 3D printing or other digital use. The digital download includes STL, DXF and CDR files.
I recommend that you use only ultra-precise modern 3D printers with SLS, DLP, LCD and same high definition technologies.
I tried to describe all the necessary assembly steps in the model assembly manual (English), which you can read here:

Assembly instructions

30 000 Gallon Tank Car H0 Scale (1:87) Additional materials: 1. Hard stainless steel or brass wire 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 or 0.6 mm thickness. 2. Metal mesh (PART23): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001276991964.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.5eb5f19cqYmX60 3. 2x Knuckle Couplers:...

docs.google.com

You can find this STL model for sale on:
Templstock: https://templstock.com/en/product/30k-gallon-tank-h0
CGTrader: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/vehicles/30-000-gallon-tank-car-h0-scale
Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1523475187/30-000-gallon-tank-car-h0-187-stl-files
or just send me PM on this forum if you interested in it buying.
Price for STL files - 15$

Here are some 3D model renders:

And these are live photos of the model I assembled:

I hope you enjoy my model. I am also working on a locomotive designed completely from scratch and will post many more new projects soon.
Thanks and best regards!

 

[747flier]

Thank you for sharing, a very Nice model. The walkway gratings are printed as well? I model narrow gauge and have constructed quite a few cars by this method.

Best wishes! Tom

 

[DK.Trains]

Thank you for sharing, a very Nice model. The walkway gratings are printed as well? I model narrow gauge and have constructed quite a few cars by this method.

Best wishes! Tom

Thanks a lot for such high mark of my model, Tom! I used ready metal mesh for creating walkway gratings, but I think it can be printed too. I included CDR and DXF files for laser cutting or photo-etching of gratings.

 

[westtexjohn]

Very nice work......very nice.

 

[DK.Trains]

Very nice work......very nice.

Thank you! I think in the final version, I will add decals and weathering.

 

[beiland]

I am also working on a locomotive designed completely from scratch and will post many more new projects soon.
Thanks and best regards

Steam or diesel?

 

[DK.Trains]

Steam or diesel?

Diesel Burlington Northern SD9 locomotive

 

[DK.Trains]

Here are some 3D renders with Body and Chassis construction. It will be Locomotive with sound and all necessary light.

 

[glenng6]

Dmytro,
Your work is exceptional. I can't wait to see more. Glenn

 

[DK.Trains]

Dmytro,
Your work is exceptional. I can't wait to see more. Glenn

Thank you Glenn, I will start working on layout too, so I will share all results of locomotives, cars and layout development.

 

[Rico]

Дуже добре!

 

[DK.Trains]

Дуже добре!

Дякую! Ви з України?

 

[Rico]

No sorry, I had family there now gone.

 

[Snowman]

@ Dmitro: Do you have any objections to a buyer making a slight alteration or two to your work? Not for sale or distribution to others, but simply for myself? I would be quite happy to hand the altered files back to you, in fact, and you could do what you wanted with them (presumably sell them), and I would quite happily refer anyone who asked me for them to you as the original source.

Otherwise. Excellent work. I can't claim to be an expert where today's commercial freight car models are, as far as depth of detail, but I'll guess this would be right up at or near the top. I love the open treadplate, for one.

 

[DK.Trains]

Of course, you can modify this 3d project as you like for your personal needs and use, I do not mind about this. If I had the chance to see this tank in real life I would have worked much better detailing, but unfortunately I live in Ukraine and do not have such an opportunity =)

 

[Snowman]

Of course, you can modify this 3d project as you like for your personal needs and use, I do not mind about this. If I had the chance to see this tank in real life I would have worked much better detailing, but unfortunately I live in Ukraine and do not have such an opportunity =)

Great, thank you. As I said, I'll happily kick back any changes to you to use as you see fit, and will not sell anything I modify.

Specifically: Some, many, most(?), but probably not all--I'm hardly an expert where tank cars are concerned--still, I've seen some photos and drawings you probably haven't.

A lot of these types of cars are welded together--the two sections of the tank--at the center in such a way that they slope slightly down from the ends to the center weld joint. Not a curved arch, but two slightly downward angled straight sections, joined in the at a shallow angle in such a way that both ends drain down from the ends to the center drainout connection when the car is on flat ground. Presumably this is done for ease of draining out the fluid commodity, but also for draining moisture (when the car is empty).

I would not want to have to suck corn syrup out with a straw from the top, for example...or pump it out...but I could wait while it drained out at the bottom.

["Aunt Jemima" or "Log Cabin" anyone?]

I DON'T know if there is a mandated amount of droop/drop...something like a 6" drop from straight, regardless of the length of the car...or if there is a mandated drop per a given length, such as with a typical household plumbing installation here in the US (something on the order of 1/4" per foot of length, for example). On a 50' car, that would be a 6.25" inch drop for each section 25 foot half section, and that seems about right to me when I see photos of many of these newer era cars.

------------

The other thing I would want to do would be to simply adapt the car for N-scale printing, and that would require a fair bit of 3D print experimenting first to even settle on a good way to do it, and then to scale it for accuracy. The last needs to be tweaked anyway for calibration on the actual 3D printer, if you really want to nail it.

This won't happen anytime soon, at least not here, as it's one of too many ideas I just keep conjuring up...and don't have time for. But someone else here might.