2 problems, 1.airbrush-2.Yellow paint

[NYSW F45]

Ok i went to tackle some painting today to get ready for the Northeast Fallen Flags proto meet in Ocotober. I wanted to touch up some of my PRR painted bi-levels and lay down 1 color of yellow on my SD90Mac. I used primer on both units as the tuscan wouldn't cover the prr buff well.

Primer went on fine on all pieces of equipment. First was the PRR tuscan, wasn't having any issues in the beginning. But towards the end it would start to spit/spatter spray. Thankfully i was pretty much done with that color. So I went inside, cleaned the bottle and airbrush with hot water and soap and an airbrush cleaner type brush. Cleaned the needle aswell.

Lastly I went to spray some yellow on my SD90Mac. From the moment i pulled the trigger I had nothing but problems. Only air would come out, then a faint mix of paint/air. Then no paint again. Started adjusting the needle...nothing. Take the tips apart thinking something is clogging it up....nothing. Then it started to spit/spatter spray the yellow. I was barely able to get a coat of yellow on the model.

What can I do to stop this issue from happening all the time?

The spitting/spatter spraying is the first issue.

Second issue is the yellow paint itself.

The sprayed the shell with primer and let it dry. Was about 40minutes between primer and yellow. Now with the yellow that is on the shell its like a very rough/powerdery feeling coat. The yellow just wont cover up the primer one bit. I had the same issue painting with white a few months back.

Should I be putting down a pre-yellow coat of silver maybe? Or did I just thin the yellow down to much? No matter how much i keep spraying the shell the yellow will not cover properly and will be patchy.

 

[diburning]

How far are you holding the airbrush from the model? Maybe the paint is drying before it hits the model?

 

[lmackattack]

regarding the splatter. it can be a few things

1)the paint is to thick.... mix it better with thinner
2)air press is to low or to high...adjust setting
3)gun is dirty... clean the tip and needle so it can mist the paint properly.
4) paint in jar has dried a little and will not thin properly
5) water in the air line
regarding the yellow... If you dident....you should use white primer with lighter colors such as red and yellow.

 

[NYSW F45]

im holding the brush like 10'' away from the models.

The primer I use is the polyscale grey primer, which I thought would be fine.

Airbrush was thoroughly cleaned
Pressure has been the same as I have always used it previously


The paint not thinning/mixing well is what im starting to wonder. This shade of PRR tuscan is not even close to what was already on the model. I had hoped the clear coat would bring some life to it, but it didn't. This has a hint of purple to it. Im going to have to strip the end's of the cars and redo this whole thing again.

 

[NYSW F45]

pics to show what im talking about.

Purple hue.

Yellow looks ok here.

Bad here on the nose.

 

[lmackattack]

I paint holding the model about 3-4" away if your holding it back 10" its likely splattering or drying before it even hits the model.

this is water based correct?

If so you may have to give it about 4-5 light coats to get the tuscan to cover the gray. the thinner the paint the more coats needed.

Looking at the picture it looks like it was thinned as it has puddled up around the ends where all the detail is at. this says that you put to much paint on the model at once and it needed a lighter coat and needed to dry before the next coat.

paint tends to grab onto raised items and if to thick you will see bare spots around edges and raised parts. Kinda how you can fill a glass of water just slightly over the top of the glass and it wont spill .... same concept

remove the old paint and take your time adding thin coats, allowing them to fully dry. It only needs about 10 min between coats. your last coat can be thicker once the car is fully covered without any bare spots. remember to give each car about the same amount of coats. if you dont one may seam darker than the other..

 

[NYSW F45]

Thanks trent. Im going to see what I can strip tomorrow. Im going to see what I can do about the actual color. I mean as you can see, its not even close to a match.

Oh and im going to probably get a new compressor. I have one of those harbour freight ones that has no tank. As the engine would cycle through you can hear it i guess surge in power, this was also affecting the spraying of the paint as it would create more pressure when the motor reved higher. So i want to pick up like a small 2 or 3 gallon tank w/compressor.

 

[Espeefan]

OK several things. Your paint should be thinned to the consistency of milk. Start at about 6 inches from the work. "Dollar Bill Distance". It's a good starting point.

Dry powdery consistency on the paint is dry spray. The paint is drying before it hits your surface. Get closer in. This is a real problem with water based paints, so the correct distance & thinning are really important with them. Using Badger Modelflex? Try some of their retarder.

Make really sure your airbrush is clean. Try Createx air brush restorer. Soak the metal parts only...not the seals. You'll be surprised how much crud you can get out of the airbrush. After, it will spray like new. Old paint? try a new bottle, or strain what you have. Yellow is tough, but you have primed so it should cover.

 

[bigford]

i use testors boyds custom white primer or flat white for
any light color as the gray primer will muddy a light color

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHL83&P=M

 

[NYSW F45]

guys, thanks for the tips. I think my local pearl paint sells createx, so i'll look for the cleaner. Im going to get the brush tomorrow from my mothers and take it apart.
and i'll have to pick up a jar of that primer.