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This idea looks great...moving the entry door shouldnt be too hard since its just studs and no drywall. But, would he be best suited to do a "modular" benchwork around the utility room for the potential...'woops there went the water heater' and be able to wheel or move the individual sections...

so if I use a 10", 12" and 14" radius, I can get a 3 loop system going on a 30" board. Just kidding but it would bel...ummmmm...unique?! Thankss for playin with the radius :D

Thanks for the info Carey...was just poking around EBay and it seems theres still plenty of the roundhouse stuff available....the prices are reasonable but those darned shipping charges add up quick haha. Just wanted to say thanks

Ive been looking for a while at different layouts getting ideas and that one just hit me right, having a water feature...mountains and a bit of switching. Had to practically beg to go that wide as I was originally looking at 24" max and just a switching layout....but really wanted a loop.

"...If you decide that your railroad is in the 40s or early 50s and you will never run passenger service, only use small steam and 4 axle first generation diesels and nothing larger than a 50' boxcar, you would be looking at Branch Line or Feeder Line service. This would allow number 5 turnouts...

what does the 2.5x number represent? ....Thats a new one for me

yeah 36" wide is definately pushing the "permission zone" of the wife in charge...so im pretty sure 40 would be right out. :eek: So do you feel some diesel switchers and small box cars and mining coal cars will do ok on a roughly 17" radius turn??

Thanks..I would like to just add a little up/down dimension instead of being all flat on the board and foam:D

Now I do thank you for your input on the layout...If it is expanded to 36" and cut the radius down to say 17" would that be a little easier on the switcher and rolling stock, or is 18 really the lowest one should go?

I was searching on Modell Railroaders site for some shelf layout ideas and this one looked interesting. It shows being only 28" wide, but has a full running loop. Would a switcher and some small box or coal cars work on this small setup? Do you guys who have experience in this think If I...

Nope no layout for now. I am a modeler and have developed a recent interest in trains, so the 2 hobbies will go hand in hand. Slowly been acquiring locos, rolling stock, track and been doing a few buildings and honing my weathering skills. All this aimed at a layout down the road, but still...

thanks again for everyones input:D I am still leaning towards the Maywood station for the reason being it is longer, and when I cut it down to size, I will have the extra matching roof lengths to fabricate the hip roof style on each of the ends. I am happy with the very close matching of...

checked it...thanks for the input.......now off to search youtube for some videos on inkjet decals :D

Thanks for the lead...I have bookmarked it :)

Thanks CMRR--could I get an explanation real quick how the decal is applied once you printed it out on your computer... I have gimp on this computer, downloaded it last year when I was looking for a cheaper but in depth program for my son for graphic arts class. What brand decal paper did you...

I was thinking about this on the way home tonight and then there was another thread today started by a member who was showing their first weathering job. This was ironic to me as I also just purchased used box carts to learn how to weather and graffiti them myself as well. Now I didn't want to...

hows your cupola look? mines a little rough especially on the corners. It came all put together, but as one piece sure can tell where the original was pieced together, again not great edges and alignment.:rolleyes:

Acrylics. I like acrylics for the fact if something doesnt turn out the way I like it...into the windex wash it goes and the paint comes right off with no harm. I learned on and have become very comfortable with acrylics..enamel just turns me off because of the harder clean up for the most...

The ends look good....the plank lines on the body above the window are not all that clean in 2 areas...they could be scribed back in and will be(maybe--its starting to bother me)...but for the price of this kit...should be perfect... But nothing horrible I have seen yet.

I just painted the red body parts..I read a new trick on some website earlier so I tried it...adding Future to the paint mix in the cup of the airbrush...WOW what great results. I always warm the paint bottle first, and this time I thinned as usual then added 2 drops of Furture floor wax...