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With both of these photos it is the background that really makes it look so good. I would be interested in a session, thread, or how to of how you did them. All the ones I have done there is something that is either too big for as far away as it is supposed to be, or too small for as close...
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poltergeist in the controller.
Sounds like your diagnosis process of re-connecting one at a time was sound. To bad about the result.
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Yes. Have intermixed them at home / club / and museum without issues.
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Yes, that was what I was talking about. Marked in yellow. A friend of mine cut that strip out to put on top of the risers. Trying to save $5 of plywood costs. It was a mess on several counts.
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Ok! Please tell me you are not going to cut that strip of wood out from under the uprights in picture 4., but rather use another strip of wood from another board. I had a friend that did cut that out and it ruined the structural integrity of the main sheet of plywood.
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Yes nostalgic, but remember it has some very tight curves in it already so modification for a second passing track might be hard. Plus only two industries.
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The "L" part makes it much stronger and stiffer than just a single 1x4, or 1x3.
The inside of the short part of the L gives an area where things can be attached by putting the fastener up from the bottom.
The top side of the short part gives a wider working area when attaching things from the...
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Is this simply 1 loco on channel 0? The "DC" works by the command station extending one pulse for an extra long time. That is, the bi-polar DCC signal is still there but instead of a nice steady shift from positive to negative, the channel 0 pulse stays "on" to the one polarity long enough to...
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So the book doesn't have you use any roadbed?
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Yes you can get that in a smaller loco. Or a larger loco in N-scale.
https://www.trainworld.com/broadway-limited-7230-up-big-boy-4007-1941-as-delivered-aftercooler-25-c-100-coal-tender-paragon4-sound-dc-dcc-smoke-n.html
BUT if you really like that specific one. They are on sale at trainworld...
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Wow, I did not know that one could buy train stuff from Wally World.
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Thanks for the info. I knew there were tiny differences, but usually ignore them because I've never had an interest in running European equipment (or at least not mixing it). I did know N-gauge track has been used for several larger scales narrow gauge, most notably was the AHM mine trains...
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Cool, I am assuming it will be perfectly clear when/if I ever actually dissemble one of these things. We sort of need a quick ref one could just look up O-scale E unit repair in.
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Hmmm, I'm getting confused. But for start. Going back to the original post you asked if anyone did such a thing and I can say I have done both. In 1981 I put an n-scale train around the base of a 6.5 foot tree. It was not even noticeable until after one stepped on it. N-scale Christmas...
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So the book has you doing L-girder AND a solid sheet of plywood in cookie cutter style. Once again interesting.
I like that idea, as sometimes the track doesn't seem to want to follow the real plan. The only thing with doing it that way is that your rail joiners will have 1 use on them...
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To change the direction of an AC motor one has to reverse the "polarity" of the motor's magnets. So Lionel and American Flyer use a circular or rotary switch triggered by a coil (that is what I am calling the relay). With each power application the coil triggers and flips to the next...
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Those are some great panned shots.
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Oooh, looks like cabinet grade REAL plywood.
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I presume you are talking about before you install the decoder. Just straight loco on straight AC power?
If so, have you tried manually changing the direction relay. Some of them can get "locked" into the neutral position.
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Depends on the display. Some locos, especially steamers do have a "better" side so one can show the compressors, or feedwater tubes, or whatever better.
The last layout I did doesn't really have a direction. I run the trains one direction one time and then flip and run the other direction...
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