Weekend Photo Fun 30-31-1


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Josh,

Great shots of the ATSF 3751. I saw her at the Fullerton Railroad Days a few weeks back. Pretty awesome! I wish I could have seen her in action.

Regards,
James
 
Josh,

Great shots of the ATSF 3751. I saw her at the Fullerton Railroad Days a few weeks back. Pretty awesome! I wish I could have seen her in action.

Regards,
James
I hoped I could have made it to Fullerton to get some good shots. Seeing here here was good though.
 
Great pics again, everyone.

Tom, I really like that Rutland boxcar. There's just something about that paint scheme that's alway's appealed to me.

Josh, nice to see the 3751 back in my old stomping grounds. I sure wish the old Southern was still alive so there was a chance we could see a mainline steam engine down here.

Jeffrey, I like the new park layout. Nothing like a ballfield for a little human interest.

Jerome, nice work on that wreck and the the leased units. You really have a talent for fine painting.

Steve, that ooks like fun with the tanks...too much fun. :) I'm afraid that getting one of those would start me down a path I don't need to go. I already have a friend who's trying to get me into RC airplanes.

Shucks, can't even remember all those other pictures other than they all make me want me to get down to the basement and start working on the layout again.
 
Jim Oleirish they are 1/16 scale made by Heng Long, they come with smoke and sound,,, and i just ordered another one :)

Jim planes are good but they hit the deck rather harder than a tank does, no tanks are nice and slow and easy to drive,,, not like the real ones though
 
After I got back from my Dad's layout I started back on the Bridge overpass for my club layout.

I completed the brass fence railings. I won't be able to put the chain link fence on until the painting process is done. For the fence I found some very nice tull at the Wallie-Mart. It's a silver color, instead of the regular white used in wedding dress. I looks much better for fencing. They had about 10 different colors available. I got 1ft. for only $0.42. It's enough for a life time of chain link.
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I needed something to put at the end of the railings, so I've seen main abutments of all sorts... but I like the art-deco, monolithic look to some. So I looked around my work table and found an old piece of basswood that I've held onto since I was about 15. Well, I finally put that thing to use. With that wood and some miscellaneous shaped styrene... I made these.
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I also rework my concrete bridge supports made from paint brush handles. I like the way these turn out alot better. The green color on top is what the whole underside of the bridge is going to be painted.
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And finally, here's the abutments painted a base grey color before any high lites and weathering.
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I can't wait to see this installed on the layout.


Thanks for looking.
 
Here's a test strip done on some scrap styrene from the bridge. I mainly did it to get a feel for the coloring of the road. I know the yellow and white lines are not straight or to scale, but they're close for a test.

The main light grey color is PollyS SP Grey. The dark grey is Reefer Grey, and I did some dry brushing and the center lane grease streaking with Grimy Black. All PollyS.

What do you guys think of the results?

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The dark spot right in front of the driver side tire in this shot is a small pot hole. I gouged out the plastic, then painted it Grimy Black with some Reefer Grey high lites. You can see it closer in some other pix.
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These next few shots are under more fluorescent lighting, which is closer to the club lighting.
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So is this passable for the club? If so I could do the whole road system in a similar fashion.
 
BTW,
The car is a Walther's 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback. It was the closet vehicle to the bench.;)
 
Looks great. I'd go a touch lighter and finer on the tar strips but, other than that, it looks like a real weathered concrete roadway. How did you make the turn arrows?

I like the decorative ends on the bridge too. I assume you are going to sand the tops since they are a little rough now. Great idea to add a little art deco touch to a modern bridge. Have you thought about what you are going to use for street lighting?
 
Looks great. I'd go a touch lighter and finer on the tar strips but, other than that, it looks like a real weathered concrete roadway. How did you make the turn arrows?

I like the decorative ends on the bridge too. I assume you are going to sand the tops since they are a little rough now. Great idea to add a little art deco touch to a modern bridge. Have you thought about what you are going to use for street lighting?

Thanks,
I thought about the tar stripes also. I'll find a small brush.

The arrows were done with a Krylon paint marker I had around, and then I touched up the edges with the grey PollyS.

The art deco thing is a leftover from the original bridge width. In my world, it was originally a 2 lane bridge. But, with increased traffic congestion the state widened the bridge to 3 lanes. They were going to remove the abutments, but the people fought to keep them. If only for decoration.

I am definitely going to add street lights. I love electrifying/lighting up things on the layout. I saw a bunch of street lights on ebay. Something like THIS or THIS. Any Ideas?
 
Ron,
I use a fine tip black Sharpie marker for tar lines. Works much better than doing it with paint and a brush. Those turn arrow look really nice for being done freehand.

Those Chinese street lights are a great deal except for one problem - they run on 6 volts. :eek: I have no idea why they chose to do that since you'd have to put a dropping resistor (which get hot) in line with each light or come up with a six volt source just for these street lights. I'd keep going with the art deco theme with post type streetlights like those at http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/wrr/wrr1091.htm. A lot of modern bridges are being built with these types of decorative lights. They will cost more than those Chinese lights but they'll look a lot better and you don't have to worry about resistors and voltage. I'm kind of partial to them because I have similar lights on my overpass and think they add a little something to overall look.
 
Those Chinese street lights are a great deal except for one problem - they run on 6 volts. :eek: I have no idea why they chose to do that since you'd have to put a dropping resistor (which get hot) in line with each light or come up with a six volt source just for these street lights.
You can run skads of 'em off the 5 volt side of a computer power supply.
 
Jeffrey,
The K-4 is looking good in the park now, but it looks like those darn landscapers didn't use a bag when mowing and some of the grass clipping ended up on the engine. After the restoration project foundation spent all that time and money fixing the old girl up, now we have to hire a maintenance crew to keep her clean.
 
DM&IR Yellowstone 227 step's lightly across Irene Bridge.....All 569 tons of her
 
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Just getting the scenery in on this section of layout. It is very time consuming with the rock molds and hand carving.








 
Jeffrey, the computer power supply is a good idea and certainly better than dropping resistors. I still like 12 volts since all my lights are hooked up to the rheostat side of several 12 volt power packs and I can brighten and dim the lights at will.

Anthony, I don't hate him for having a Yellowstone, I hate him for having a layout with broad enough curves to run one of those monsters. :)

DK, all that rock work is time consuming and tedious (not to mention messy) at times but it sure is coming out nice. I really like that cliff face just before the portal.
 



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