Narrow Gauge rolling stock 3D printing.


Wow I’m enjoying following all this! 😀
Rico: (Not the one the statute is named after I presume)

Pleased that you are enjoying these. It's something of a trial and error effort but the HON3 gurus Rob Bell and John Stutz, both of whom model the WP&YR. have furnished me with much valuable information. I may change how I do the floors, which has to do with the vagaries of the printing process.

Best regards: Tom
 
Change the floor construction with success! Previously the end platforms were part of the upper structure as one piece and the floor fitting up into the passenger compartment of the body. It works better if I print the floor as one piece, full length with separate end beams and railings. Aside from getting a better straight platform, this allows easier painting of the decks and a crisper rail and end beam.
 
At the suggestion of a friend who is a Narrow Gauge master, I ordered some 3D printed passenger trucks to which one inserts commercial (Kadee) wheels. As it turns out they roll super well! He says they roll better than the Blackstones! The 222 car rolls and looks great on them. However (Murphy's Law) I did not have the trucks in hand when I did the floor. So of course the steps on one end interfered with the swing of the truck by an RCH (Small unit of imperial measurement). I did modify it OK, but printing a new floor as a more elegant solution.

Tom
 
Hey...a coupla-few quick questions re using DesignSpark Mechanical. Do you know if it's possible to import drawings in the form of .jpgs or (GIMP native) .xcf files to use as reference drawings when building 3D models in that environment? Perhaps even color drawings?

Do those 3D print sizing tools (for calibration purposes) allow you fine enough control of your prints?

And last: Have you perhaps tried to alter your logos/lettering in DSM, exporting them for 2D printing making your decals?

I'm having some real sizing issues with even my current 2D printing kit, and with an eye toward mastering etched cliches for ink-machine printing, it would be nice if I could find and learn well an all-in-one tool, rather than several similar, but presumably quirky (aren't they all) design tools.

Thanks.

Still following along with your WIPS, BTW, even if I can only rarely sneak in. Don't let the lack of "likes" for your posts and photos fool you. :D
 
Unfortunately DSM is issuing a version 6 (V6) which has some reduced features such as being able to export 2D files as .ORF. So I prefer V5, but that is no longer available and may have its activation jerked. We shall see. For decal printing, my art work work is just great, but not happy with the material I am trying. I use PHOTOSHOP. I did use DSM to design some graphics that I printed on my Cameo (Cricut like) machine for cutting lettering from thin adhesive vinyl or as stencils.

DSM can import image files as a background. I did this with projects as the hopper cars, duce n half, jeep etc where I had 2D drawings. As this is a background, it's useful for scaling and arranging the 3D on top of it.

For the fluid White pass script logos I traced the .jpeg image from a photo and exported as a 2D design file to the Cameo and filled it in and exported as a .jpeg of the appropriate color for a decal.

DSM allows a very size accurate creation and a re size to the nearest percent. However as to 3D printing, the slicer (Chitubox) allows independent accurate sizing to dimensions in all three axis.

Tom
 
Unfortunately DSM is issuing a version 6 (V6) which has some reduced features such as being able to export 2D files as .ORF. So I prefer V5, but that is no longer available and may have its activation jerked. We shall see. For decal printing, my art work work is just great, but not happy with the material I am trying. I use PHOTOSHOP. I did use DSM to design some graphics that I printed on my Cameo (Cricut like) machine for cutting lettering from thin adhesive vinyl or as stencils.

DSM can import image files as a background. I did this with projects as the hopper cars, duce n half, jeep etc where I had 2D drawings. As this is a background, it's useful for scaling and arranging the 3D on top of it.

For the fluid White pass script logos I traced the .jpeg image from a photo and exported as a 2D design file to the Cameo and filled it in and exported as a .jpeg of the appropriate color for a decal.

DSM allows a very size accurate creation and a re size to the nearest percent. However as to 3D printing, the slicer (Chitubox) allows independent accurate sizing to dimensions in all three axis.

Tom
Thanks for the reply. A quicky Google search gives at least one link to a free .ORF to .jpg converter (convertio.co (not .com)), so that might not be an issue.

The drawings I'm currently working with are some of my own large format and print shop scanned lettering done way back in the mid-eighties (they need some tweaking, and I'd rather do it digitally if I can, rather'n get out pens, ink, and whitout) and a deck bridge project I've picked up again after many years. That onen eeds a precise HO to N conversion, among other things, and while I have been able to revise my drawings for purposes of building some quicky mock-ups, they aren't accurate enough to invest time in building any final models.

Dunno about you, but I like to do things well, but only once if I can. The older I get, the more important it becomes, and I'm sure I'm not alone in that regard.
 
As a photographer I have other uses for Photoshop, but it and some of the professional graphics programs are the ideals for this sort of thing.

Maybe not cost effective for hobby use. If I was more professional, maybe I would use FUSION 360 for 3D CAD. But I'm not.
 
I glanced threw the thread I didn't see any specs on the printer.
Ask in the coffee shop or ask this thread owner as he's 3D printing stuff.

 
For Model Railroad stuff one needs a larger printer if the idea is to print cars and scenery items. I use an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 6K. This allows printing an item as long as about 9". Seems to be a well built item. Prices vary but range around $500-600.
 
Expect little learning curve, my first few prints were blobs, or may not stick to the platen. Choosing the right resin and dialing in the settings is maybe the biggest challenge. One also learns what can be printed and what not. Orientation and supports is a critical art.

Good luck!

On other fronts, I'm adding windows to the WP&YR Parlor cars I have printed, from 1/16" plexiglas, giving a very flat real glass looking adding some weight (1/3 oz) to the car. Total car weight currently 3 oz with trucks, windows and steel bar stock on the floor.
 
Cool that was the one I was looking at too.
Thank You

If you contemplate trying to print flat objects flat on the platen, instead of diagonally on supports, you might want to add a magnetic spring plate to aid removal of those prints WITHOUT potential damage that can come from using a spatula. "Whambam" is one manufacturer and there might be others too.

Mine, purchased for my Anycubic Mono 4K, ran me $60 US or thereabouts.

Assuming you haven't already made a purchase, Anycubic will officially announce and release prices of their new 12K (!!!) M5 and M5s printers this Tuesday. With a vat build length of 10.1" and a pixel size of just 19 microns (!!!), these units should certainly push the edge of the envelope...at least for a while. The printing speed has also been reduced by a factor of three or thereabouts, which puts both squarely in the "think like a manufacturer" class of tools I often tend to ramble on about.
 
If you contemplate trying to print flat objects flat on the platen, instead of diagonally on supports, you might want to add a magnetic spring plate to aid removal of those prints WITHOUT potential damage that can come from using a spatula. "Whambam" is one manufacturer and there might be others too.

Mine, purchased for my Anycubic Mono 4K, ran me $60 US or thereabouts.

Assuming you haven't already made a purchase, Anycubic will officially announce and release prices of their new 12K (!!!) M5 and M5s printers this Tuesday. With a vat build length of 10.1" and a pixel size of just 19 microns (!!!), these units should certainly push the edge of the envelope...at least for a while. The printing speed has also been reduced by a factor of three or thereabouts, which puts both squarely in the "think like a manufacturer" class of tools I often tend to ramble on about.
Oh wow that amazing I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger yet. Still playing with the software to see if I can even figure it out.

Lol
 
So far I haven't had any difficulties popping items printed on the platen with any damage. Only some items should be printed on the platen directly, such as car floors. Getting the correct adherence to the platen is a factor of the bottom layers and exposure. Too little and they don't adhere, a common source of 3D print failure. The spatula that Anycubic provides has a very sharp bevel which does a good job removing the objects.

Two specs are important in a printer, the fixed size and the layer thickness. Resin selection and settings are vital for optimal results for the assigned task.

Mr Z. Good luck with the software, not easy!
 
Currently working on the WP&YR 218 car shown here. Still minus couplers and truss rods.

Tom
WP 218 Car.jpg
 
SOOOOoooo good! You are showing us what can be done right now. Not just with the all-to-often 3D printed fantasy-gaming models seen in so many YouTube videos, but with models like these.

The only comment I have otherwise is: How much did you have to thin the paint you used on the porch handrail...

...before you applied to the top of the model itself. :D

It's just so good. If that color ISN'T called "Salmon"...someone is squandering a real opportunity.

I also love the (presumably soldered out of lead strip in the HO universe), as with most any special/colorwindow decorations). That's brilliant. Hats off for even seeing it, let alone trying to model it.
 
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Oh wow that amazing I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger yet. Still playing with the software to see if I can even figure it out.

Lol
I THINK the asking price is a mere $399, FWIW. But you will obviously want to do your own research before buying anything.
 



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