3-D Printers


illyad2

New Member
Good morning all. I have become interested in 3-D printing and the things it can bring to my HO scale layout. I would like to find out more and get as much information as I can. Specifically, I would like to make figures, buildings and items with 3d printer. I would like to take items such as vehicles or figures and change their scale (making them larger or smaller and them printing them out. I would also like to know if 3d images can be made from one dimension surface. I have other questions but perhaps a 3d printer primer might be a good idea. TIA.
 
My son has a 3D printer and it works ok. IMO it prints a little rough for much of what I would like to use it for, that is, it takes more cleanup that I think it should. There are lots of models out there that you can download.
 
Good morning all. I have become interested in 3-D printing and the things it can bring to my HO scale layout. I would like to find out more and get as much information as I can. Specifically, I would like to make figures, buildings and items with 3d printer. I would like to take items such as vehicles or figures and change their scale (making them larger or smaller and them printing them out. I would also like to know if 3d images can be made from one dimension surface. I have other questions but perhaps a 3d printer primer might be a good idea. TIA.


I am assuming your referring to a flat surface like a photograph ? All surfaces are two dimensional by definition , a surface cannot exist in only one dimension .

You need three dimensional data for the printer, The third dimension has to either be defined or extrapolated somehow.

My impression of 3d printing has been that the costs (time and money ) usually outweigh the benefits , base material and equipment to produce high quality results are a significant capital investment. Most 3D printing is done by creating a 3 dimensional "solid" model in a CAD program and the data is then sliced into layers and each layer "printed" like a 2d image. The easiest way to think about a 3D printer its a 2D printer with a Z axis stepper motor , only instead of ink you have a hot glue gun .

The easiest way to get the best results is to create the model in the 3D CAD package and then send the data off to a printing house for the final model or production run. The same way you would if you were designing a PCB .

I haven't looked at this stuff in several years so things may have changed. Someone else may have a different opinion or take on the subject.
 
In reference to the issues Patrick reference, filament based printers can only provide resolution to the thickness of the filament and can require a significant amount of cleanup to make useable. I've been eyeing the resin printers which offer much greater resolution than the filament-based 3D printers can. Specifically, I've been eyeing this one: https://www.micromark.com/Anycubic-Photon-S-SLA-3D-Resin-Printer-White. It can be found cheaper elsewhere, but I am still struggling with the ROI of investing in one as I find that most things that I would use that for are things I don't need, or can find fairly cheap on Shapeways.
 
My son does a lot of his stuff at work and took courses last year in catia. He got his filament printer as it was one that was recommended. It has had its issues in the 6 months he's had it. I though there were better ones out there, but I didn't buy it so...I am on the lookout for something different though. And as for ROI, unless you need it for business, don't expect it to pay for itself anytime soon.
 
I have the Sovol SV01 printer and at its price point I am very happy with it. I've printed several n scale buildings and vehicles and yes they can be quite a bit of work to clean up as there is a minute void on the surface of every layer. However, once primed and sanded the surface is smooth. I guess what I think makes them handy for model railroading is the fact that you can print something for pennies and have it in your hand in a couple of hours. Whether this option is used to see if a certain item is fitting for your layout before you go out and buy an expensive kit or just to be able to have more available more quickly and much less expensive. Everyone's opinion will vary but I am pleased with mine.

As far as printing 3d from a 2d image I think that would require more skill and investment than I have. I've only designed a few simple items so far but if you are familiar with 3d cad software then the sky is the limit. There are several people who design and share their files for free or for a couple of bucks and its fun to scroll through these and decide to try something new. Good luck on you decision and I do agree that the resin printers offer much better detail, but at a higher initial cost.
 
In your question you mention buildings, which can be easily done with a filament printer, which costs from $150 and up, but figures, which you also mention, are better done with a resin printer, which costs more, and has a greater cleanup routine ...
For reference, I only have a filament printer, which is a Prusa I3 clone, was a semi kit at $160 [Canadian even], and came withe a heated bed and auto Z ...
 
In searching the Prusa line I found my son's printer:


His has yet to print as nicely as what the people are showing on the comments.....

I was looking at one of those the other day , can you post pics of some of the results ? it looks more or less like the Sovol , I see so many of them with different branding , I am thinking they must be an open source hardware/software platform? Right now they're about $180?
 
I have both a Creality CR-010S and an Ender 3 Pro. Both are excellent printers for their price point.

Patrick: The Ender is capable of very fine detail. If your son is having problems, here are a couple of things to consider. Both the brand and color of filament make a BIG difference. So do the printer settings in the slicer. For the latter, check out the YouTube channel CHEP.

illyad2: wvg_ca touched on the main consideration: FDM (filament) or SLA (resin). Much, much finer detail can be achieved with a resin printer. But resin printers are more complex, messier, and smellier; though one is on my list of "to gets", probably around Christmas. And if you want to design your own "objects", you will need to learn to use a CAD program. Thankfully, there are a number of free or low cost CAD programs, but they ALL have a fairly steep learning curve. To see what a resin printer can do, check out Luke Towan's YouTube channel.
 
You don't get a 3D printer to save money. I have been 3D printing for a quite a few years now, FDM stuff. I have a cheapy clone, and it does work, and works well, but takes a lot of fiddling to get it right, and that is only for a short period of time, then it takes more fiddling. Around Sept of 2021, the hot end blew out ( the part that melts and squirts out the filament). A replacement was not going to be available until November, of 2023. So I ordered a Prusa Mini. All I can say is it was a little more money than the cheap one, but once setup, and that part is WAY easier than the cheap one I have, it is VERY consistent until I change filament to a different brand, or type. (PLA vs PETG) . Then about 5-10 minutes of setup, and it is good to go again until I change filament.

I have designed and printed all sorts of useful things; some that were not commercial available. I am an armature astronomer, and have designed adapters and various mounts for finders (Telrad specifically), and the "precision" is good enough for that.

Yes the surface finish can be a bit rough. I just recently got into this hobby, and plan on making some N-Scale bridges, and other Structure type things. I have been playing with layer height. Smaller layer height makes the seams between layers less visible, but take more time to print. It seems good enough for none forefront items. Or with some filler and primer, it may be a moot point.

I have also designed and printed point servo mounts with provisions to mount small lever switches and a drill jig to facilitate mounting under the layout. Super easy to install and everything is lined up on the first try.
So far the best thing I have printed for the RR is a tool to install rail joiners on N-scale track. No more pricked thumbs. They slide on perfectly 1/2 way with ease now.
Also designed and printed mounts for the various circuit boards I use and some wire clips.

Examples here.

For designing the items, I use Fusion360, the free version. I have not found any limitations for my use with this limited version. It is fairly easy once you get the basics from a few youtube videos. If you have no CAD experience I hear TickerCAD is the way to get started.

So if this is something that interests you, by all means go for it. Will you save money? No. Will you have a chance to explore new creative outlets, and have some one-of items or be able to make something that you can't by. Defiantly.
 
To the OP: Look into "3D scanner apps," which stitch together any number of cell phone pics to create potentially printable 3D objects (cars, people, etc. Other objects can be made using freely available modeling tools to create printable files. Do it once, reproduce many times, etc.

As is often the case, YouTube is your friend:

That's ^^^ just one of many, and using cell phones you can generally scan objects for free, vs. using handheld scanners and grid reference point setups.

Filament printers can typically print larger objects than resin printers, and with plastics like ABS--often quite durable products--but the resolution is lower than with SLA printers (resin printers). Reasonable cost* resin printers right now are often 4K resolution. I bought myself a 4K "AnyCubic Mono X" SLA printer last year which has a slightly larger print area than most in that class. Specifically with the idea of printing N scale '89 foot flatcars. It's still in the box though...sitting over there...tempting me....

[* under $1K US]

There is now a 6K model of the Mono X which will print flat objects as large as 7.8 inches long (we're getting well up into the HO scale freight car range now). Currently under $800 at Amazon, which is about what you might spend for three sound equipped locomotives....

@YouTube, I find videos by a guy named "Nerdtronic" (just type <---that name into the YouTube search-box and you'll find him) pretty helpful as far as understanding the entire SLA printing process. He goes through quite a few basics too, including such things as "resin handling"--the actual hands on how-to process of making prints in an efficient and generally problem free manner). I also find his videos "Calibrating Your Printer" (to get the most accurate dimensional fidelity you can) and "Eliminating the Elephant's Foot (a particular SLA 3D print issue where the first layers print a bit too large around the edges--he has a free phone app to help calculate fixes for that).

Last: There happens to be a technique known as "vapor smoothing" (works with both filament and SLA prints, IIRC), which "melts" the surface layers of prints in order to avoid the need for sanding and finishing. Takes only a few seconds, I think.

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At sixty-one, and with somewhat unsteady hands now, N scale would be pretty impractical for me without 3D printing, methinks. Watching my shaking hands try to apply decals would give anyone fits.... But with 2D printing (for said decals and more), and 3D printing for objects, it might still be possible for me. Even with poor eyesight....too. :p
 
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